Melinda Joe

A visit to a restaurant like Oryori Fujii in Toyama reminds you just how amazing Japanese counter dining experiences can be. The theater of it, the dazzling products, the thrilling mastery of techniques on display. To be a great kaiseki chef, one needs to have more than deep knowledge of ingredients and culinary chops. You have to have a knack for ikebana and an eye for beauty, along with personal charisma.

Chef Hironori Fujii is one such chef. He’s a charmer, chatting with guests as he breaks down whole snow crabs with seemingly effortless grace. The meal was a delicious lesson in crustacean anatomy, each part thoughtfully prepared with nothing wasted.

Thanks for letting us join this @sezannetokyo field trip, @chezcalvert and congrats on 🌟🌟! Less

Huge congratulations to @mitsuharu_maido on snagging the No 1 slot at this year’s @latam50best! What an achievement, and so well deserved! In addition to being a thoroughly lovable soul, Micha is a pioneer who keeps spreading the joy of Nikkei cuisine around the world.

My first visit to Maido in 2013 opened my eyes to this vibrant style of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (I still remember the tiradito). By the time I went back to Maido last year, the restaurant had really hit its stride. A wonderful experience! Less

In Kyoto, @bluebottlejapan’s exclusive Studio offers an intimate tasting experience that unfolds like a kaiseki course. Open until Dec 11, now is the perfect time to savor these single-origin brews with a view of the autumn leaves.

“As I take my seat at the counter, barista Yuta Miyagawa places a recording of the Keith Jarret Trio’s “Still Live” album on the turntable, marking the start of the prix fixe tasting course. Alongside all the other meticulous details that define the experience, the musical selection has been curated by Blue Bottle founder James Freeman…

The session opens with a trio of cold teas steeped with different parts of the coffee plant: the leaves, flowers and cherries — the pulp surrounding the coffee beans. The unique infusions showcase a spectrum of flavors, from the astringency of the leaves to the soft sweetness and pleasantly acidic tang of the cherries.”

The second piece in my two-part coffee feature for The Japan Times #kanpaiculture:

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2023/11/26/food-drink/blue-bottle-kyoto-coffee/... Less

Lake Garda, one of the loveliest sites of one of the loveliest restaurants, @ristorantelido84. Brothers Riccardo and Giancarlo Camanini have turned this tranquil spot into one of the most coveted dining destinations in the world. Formerly a pool house built in 1984, the beautifully refurbished space pays homage to 1960s art deco, offering marvelous views of the aquamarine waters.

Riccardo draws inspiration from the greats, mixed with influences from his travels abroad. There’s a delicate razor clam adorned with guanciale, Tonkin powder, and pink ginger; grilled octopus with blood orange and chili; a single huge pennoni pasta served with a dipping sauce of uni; a sweet dish of pasta riccia and mallard spiced with Ras al Hanout and black lemon. Paired with aged sake, black chanterelles and chestnut honey, mixed with razor clam liver and sesame oil brimmed with umami. As always, the cacio e pepe cooked in a pig’s bladder elicited rounds of applause. Less

In the sleepy village of Vencò, an hour and a bit away from Trieste, @antoniaklugmann creates provocative culinary poetry that embodies the soul of Friuli-Venezia.

At @largineavenco, Antonia and her sister @vittoria1983 welcome you with such warmth, it feels like visiting their home. The experience is intimate and contemplative, the cuisine designed to make you think.

This time, I loved the corn flatbread topped with morchia (hazelnut butter and roasted yellow cornmeal) and Parmesan; cauliflower, enveloped in the embrace of creamy hazelnut and chestnut sauce; bone marrow enlivened by the zing of fermented red cabbage with a touch of sweet beetroot; and the smoky mushroom tagliatelle.

Antonia does not hold back from bold flavors and daring combinations. Cold fried aubergine is brushed with aubergine glaze; a sauce of fermented lemon and blackberry marmalade adds pert acidity. Ravioli stuffed with turnip leaves and rocket, topped with white turnip, is a contrast of silky, delicate texture and bracing, robust bitterness.

My first visit here was last year with @chihokanzaki and @marcelodigiacomo06. An unforgettable meal! Hope to return soon. Less

To celebrate the year of the dragon, I had the honor of attending a stupendous feast, hosted by Dining Out and @halekulani_okinawa, and featuring Tomoya Kawada of ⭐️⭐️⭐️ @sazenka, who prepared an elaborate full-course dinner under the stars amid the remains of Shuri Castle.

The palace of the Rykyu Kingdom between 1429 and 1879, Shurijo was the main site of the kingdom’s legendary gastrodiplomacy, where the Rykyu royals entertained envoys from Japan, China, and Southeast Asia. Smooth relations bolstered the kingdom’s position as a vital trading hub and cultural crossroads.

Sadly, the castle was razed during WWII, and a long-term reconstruction project was thwarted when a fire destroyed the nearly completed main building in 2019. A second reconstruction is now underway.

The history-steeped stone remains served as a dramatic backdrop to Chef Kawada’s stunning cuisine, which incorporated Okinawan ingredients. A truly marvelous event!

Dining Out Rykyu Shuri Part 1

Somen in tea flavored with getto herb

Yako-gai marinade

Golden crab spring roll

Yun Bai Rou Sazenka style

Jellyfish with choumeisou

Yako-gai and soft shell turtle soup

Sichuan deep-fried harisenbon

To be continued… Less