Foodle

Stop number 3 on my mini Best of Scandinavia tour last week was ⭐️⭐️⭐️🍀 Noma. Of course when I heard the news that Noma would be closing it’s doors this year (not entirely true but it will I’m sure be evolving again into something different as it has always done) I had to try for a table for my tour. In fact Noma’s announcement was the catalyst for me to decide at the last moment to put this tour together. I had no plans to do a Scandi tour again until 2026. I think on the whole my group enjoyed the experience, with a mixture of first timers, second timers and myself (12 visits now) and Bruno celebrating his 21st visit! I think in all honesty, the food, as ever, pushes relentlessly forward which is always refreshing to see and both pleases and challenges most palates. However, at the risk of never being allowed back through Noma’s doors (I always try to be respectfully honest ((unless your name is Gaggan)) the almost unanimous opinion amongst members of my tour group who were revisiting and also from friends who have revisited over the years is that the hospitality is not what it once was. I clearly remember my first ever visit to Noma many years ago and how at the time I raved about it being the best meal of my life, due in no small part to the hospitality I received. Now though, unfortunately that art seems to have been lost slightly which, with a price point of around €800 for a meal there, leaves a slightly bitter aftertaste. I hope this is taken as a constructive and honest piece of criticism rather than an attack on what is a restaurant that has had a huge culinary influence on restaurants and cooks around the world. Of that they should be very proud.
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Michelin Guide - ⭐️⭐️⭐️🍀
La Liste - 87.00
W50B - Best of the best
Best Chef Awards - 🔪 🔪🔪
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ラーメン / Ramen / Komaya — Fukuoka, Fukuoka

‘Shaba style’ Hakata tonkotsu ramen. The soup is made by slowly simmering pig heads, knuckles and skin over low heat, using the soup from the previous day as a base. Through careful temperature control the soup is allowed to age and ferment, creating a strong smell and a deep, mature flavor. Shaba style is a genre created by Komaya’s founder, referencing old-fashioned style Hakata ramen which has a strong porky smell. Noodles are sourced locally in Fukuoka by Takara Foods. Topped with thinly sliced pork chashu and green negi. Spicy kaedama (extra noodles) are recommended.

Master Kurata-san was born in Fukuoka and previously worked in a variety of businesses, including running a toy store and a tropical fish store. In 2015, he founded Teppanyaki Komaya, but he missed the taste of old school Hakata ramen so began serving it on the menu in 2018. The ramen became so popular that in 2019, he renovated the business to specialize in ramen only. The brand now operates three branches in Fukuoka, each using a slightly different recipe. Seven seats at the Maidashi flagship. Since September 1st, 2018 @hageraamen Less

ワンタンメン / Wontonmen / Saien — Kameido, Tokyo

Old school machi chūka style Tokyo ramen, containing clear shoyu soup made from pork bones, chicken bones, aromatic vegetables and dried ingredients. Medium-thin straight noodles are special-ordered. Topped with bamboo shoots, negi and wontons. Popular side dishes feature the highly recommended liver rice bowl, garlic chives & liver stir-fry, house-made gyoza and fried rice.

Saien was established over 40 years ago in Asakusa, followed shortly thereafter by the opening of this Kameido branch. The original Asakusa flagship closed down in 2018 before reopening as 'New Saien' in 2019. Family run, 18 seats. Founded in 1983. Less

柚子香る汁なし担々麺 / Yuzu Kaoru Shirunashi Tantanmen / Mendokoro Yuzu Lab — Kanda, Tokyo

A base stock is made of dried shiitake mushrooms from Kyushu and a secret sauce using yuzu from Kochi Prefecture. Original tare contains a blend of miso, sesame and dashi, mixed with minced meat, chili oil and optional Szechuan pepper. Flat noodles are procured via Mikawaya Seimen. Topped with mizuna greens and yuzu peel. Yuzu juice is available as a free condiment to add midway through, containing yuzu from Oita Prefecture.

Yuzu Rabo (Lab) is a specialty store focusing on soupless tantanmen with an emphasis on yuzu. Master Ota-san is originally from Oita Prefecture and loves both yuzu and kabosu citrus. He worked for sometime in the food and beverage industry, then for an advertising agency before opening this restaurant together with a childhood friend. Eight seats. Since December 19th, 2023 @yuzu.lab Less

特中華 淡麗煮干し醤油 / Toku Chūka Tanrei Niboshi Shoyu / Chūka Soba Uosei — Atami, Shizuoka

Niboshi shoyu and shio ramen contains dried sardines sourced from all over Japan, combined with shellfish. The exact recipe changes daily, on this day three varieties of dried fish were used from Kagawa, Chiba and Nagasaki. Original noodles by Kanno Seimen are made with Hokkaido wheat, using only the center of the wheat germ. Premium ingredients feature multiple types of pork and chicken chashu, along with mitsuba greens, cherry tomatoes, diced red onions, nori seaweed, wontons and butter.

Master Akihito Kawakubo-san first opened Chūka Soba Uosei in Hino City, west Tokyo, where it operated for a couple of years before being passed over to an apprentice and having the name changed to Mejika Soba Kingyo. Kawakubo-san worked in this part of Shizuoka in the past and has a connection to the area, which is why he returned here. He operates the shop with the help of his wife. Open lunch only, from 11am until the ingredients run out. Reservations are required on weekends. 10 seats. Since May 31st, 2023 @chukasoba.uosei Less

特製担々麺 / Tokusei Tantanmen / Tokyo Ramen Kaika — Nakano, Tokyo

The soup contains selected pork balanced with dried sardines and katsuobushi. Noodles are house made in the store everyday using a blend of several kinds of high quality domestic wheat. Two types of pork chashu include one that is hook-hung and charcoal-grilled. Also topped with bamboo shoots, boiled greens, negi, ajitama, wontons and Szechuan peppercorns. All ingredients are prepared by hand, including the sesame tare sauce and chili oil. No msg. Other popular menu items feature shoyu Chūka Soba and Onsen Gohan.

Run by Tokyo Ramen Yuki Co., Ltd., a company which operates a variety of business concepts. The shop was opened and produced by the master of Hokkori Chūka Soba Motsuke, a popular ramen restaurant in Hachioji which closed in May of 2024. 10 seats. Open since February 20th, 2025. Less

チャーシューワンタンメン / Chashu Wontonmen / Chūka Soba Senmonten Taishōken — Hachioji, Tokyo

Eifukucho Taishōken style ramen features a clear soup made from pork, niboshi and vegetables, finished with lard. Noodles are provided by the Taishōken affiliated Kusamura Shōten, based in Suginami. Topped with pork shoulder chashu, bamboo shoots, naruto, negi, nori and wontons.

The master trained in Eifukucho under Taishōken’s apprentice system before going independent. Located in a space previously occupied by two other ramen concepts. 15 seats. Since April 17th, 2023. Less

特製焼あごらーめん / Tokusei Yaki Ago Ramen / Menya Nanigashi — Komagome, Tokyo

Rich soup combines chicken/pork broth with grilled flying fish dashi. Choice of shoyu or shio tare. Thick and wavy homemade high-hydration noodles contain Mochihime wheat and are kneaded by hand before being boiled. Topped with slices of roasted pork chashu, ajitama, nori seaweed, negi and togarashi.

Master Agata-san trained at Niboshi Tsukemen Miyamoto, where he was in charge of making noodles for the Miyamoto Group. Prior to that he worked with the Ramen Nagi Group. Only open for lunch, 11am-3pm (until 4pm on weekends). Six seats. Since December 5th, 2023. Less

味玉中華そば MIX チャーシュー / Ajitama Chūka Soba Mix Chashu / Menya Mikan — Nakameguro, Tokyo

Clear soup is made from dried sardines, mackerel and katsuobushi; a recipe created through trial and error. Medium-width straight noodles are housemade. Shoyu tare uses a blend of three varieties of sauce sauce and chashu tare. Two types of pork chashu feature charcoal-grilled and rolled belly which is simmered for three hours. Also topped with ajitama, bamboo shoots, greens, negi, nori and naruto.

Owner Ichiya-san is friends with the master of Marue Chūka Soba in Sugamo. While he was training there he met Yoshitaka Yamamoto-san, who previously worked at AFURI in Shibuya. The two became close and Yamamoto-san now manages this shop. 14 seats. Since April 30th, 2024. Less