Zeshin (是しん) Osaka

I visited in April and enjoyed the dashi soup and sakura shrimp clay pot rice, so I returned this time to celebrate a friend's birthday.The corn puree served at the beginning was delightful, with the sea urchin adding a nice touch. Towards the end, the gratin felt a bit too soy sauce-heavy for my taste, but overall, I enjoyed another delicious meal. It was a great meal.When I ordered an Ebisu beer, I was lucky enough to receive the Lucky Ebisu (with two sea bream depicted on it). I truly appreciated the good fortune!My friend and I are already planning to come back in the autumn when the ingredients are abundant. I can't wait for fall! Less

I finally visited a restaurant I had been eyeing for lunch.The atmosphere was calm, allowing me to enjoy my meal at a leisurely pace. The dishes were beautifully presented, and it was clear that each one was crafted with care.✨The portions were generous enough to leave me feeling full, and the seasoning was refined, making every bite enjoyable until the end. The cost performance was excellent, and I believe the lunch experience was highly satisfying.Additionally, the phone service was exceptional.It left a lasting impression on me.Thank you for the wonderful service! Less

As usual, we made a reservation and visited as a party of two. We started with beer, and this time we chose Japanese sake for the rest of the meal.The first dish was a corn puree topped with fresh yuba (tofu skin) and sea urchin. The sweetness of the corn was absolutely delicious. The second dish featured hairy crab and steamed abalone, which was also delightful. For the third course, we had a soup with soft-shelled turtle fish cakes and winter melon. This was exceptional, especially with the dashi broth. The fourth dish was boiled conger eel from Numajima, which was tender and tasty. Next came the sashimi, including akou (red sea bream) and toro (fatty tuna). Then we had the hassun, which included simmered octopus and various other delicacies. After that, we enjoyed sweetfish, and the meal concluded with a simmered dish of beef and round eggplant.For the rice course, we had eel rice. Once again, everything was delicious! Less

Today, I visited Zeshin for a small family event.We were served a variety of dishes that filled us up completely. Here’s what I remember:- Japanese-style corn soup- Hamo (pike eel) with plum sauce- Winter melon with junsai (water shield)- Sashimi- Hassun (seasonal appetizer platter)- Anago (conger eel) sushi- Gratin with shrimp and fried hamo- Takikomi gohan (rice cooked with octopus) and red miso soup- Matcha kuzukiri (matcha starch noodles)The anago sushi didn’t come with wasabi, but I can overlook that. The dish at the next table had wasabi and looked vibrant.Also, the fact that they don’t accept cards is a bit of a limitation for us. I understand that the fees for the restaurant can add up, but it’s still a concern. Less

I visited the kaiseki restaurant "Zeshin" in Osaka. Every dish was truly delicious, and I was impressed from start to finish.Here are a few standout dishes:- Grilled Sweetfish (Ayuu)The skin was crispy and fragrant, while the flesh was tender, perfectly cooked.- Sashimi and RollsFresh ingredients beautifully presented, and the tuna rolls were exceptional.- Spring RollsThe crispy texture was delightful, and the filling was packed with seafood, making for a satisfying flavor.- Roasted DuckThe meat was incredibly tender, and the balance with the accompanying vegetables like myoga and okra was fantastic.- SoupThe elegant dashi was rich, warming the heart along with the umami of the meat.- DessertA refreshing fruit jelly that was flawless in both appearance and taste, finishing the meal perfectly.Each dish was thoughtfully crafted, providing a truly wonderful dining experience. However, there is one important note: payment is cash only, with no credit cards accepted. I recommend preparing cash in advance if you plan to visit.I had a fantastic time enjoying delicious food and would love to return! Less

I was utterly amazed! I never knew that food could bring such happiness into my life! The dishes kept coming one after another, like waves rushing towards the shore.First, I was served a seafood jelly in a tall glass with legs. Just the presentation alone felt extraordinary, raising my expectations. The semi-raw shrimp had a delightful bounce that made my teeth rejoice, and the gentle elasticity of the abalone surprised me at first, but then the rich flavor washed over me (the seasoning was exquisite). The uni had a refreshing umami with no unpleasant odor, and the acidity of the Amela tomato, bursting with juicy flavor, was unlike any ordinary tomato! The crunchy texture of the water shield added to the fun. It felt like a straight punch to my senses, and I couldn't help but sigh, "Ah, this is happiness!" I was already satisfied after the first dish.The second dish was also visually stunning! Personally, I usually oppose using fruit in savory dishes (I tend to avoid pineapple in sweet and sour pork), but beneath the shredded hairy crab was a round piece of Shizuoka melon. The sweetness of the melon paired beautifully with the acidity of the jelly, and the flavor of the crab was not overshadowed at all. I was in awe of the chef's taste and creativity. Even though I usually reject the combination of prosciutto and melon (my palate warns me that the saltiness of the prosciutto and the sweetness of the melon do not match), I found myself agreeing with a fruit-infused dish for the first time.The third dish was served as "nikusui" (meat soup), but I wondered if it was even appropriate to call such a dish "nikusui"! It was an extraordinary creation, far removed from the typical "nikusui". As I bit into the thick steak-like meat, I was astonished by its tenderness! The broth was a blend of bonito and kombu with Chinese tea, and the spiciness of the flower pepper was refreshing. The quality of the meat was top-notch, combined with the chef's creativity, skill, and effort, resulting in a masterpiece.Next came the thick, succulent eel from Numajima, sashimi, and toro-taku, followed by the seventh dish, hassun. I internally screamed, "Please, no more!" It was all too beautiful. Everything was incredibly delicious, with no hint of shortcuts taken!The eighth dish was a spring roll filled with uni and abalone—a concentrated burst of umami. This was an audacious take on Japanese cuisine.The ninth dish featured small sweetfish from Lake Biwa. Although I couldn't capture it in a photo, inside a large bamboo basket, the fish was beautifully arranged with bamboo leaves, and a small grill was set up inside, topped with freshly grilled sweetfish. The presentation was refreshing, and I was grateful and delighted to be served such thoughtfully prepared dishes. The shape of the sweetfish and the grilling was perfect! Even the accompanying "tadezu" was incredibly delicious.The tenth dish was a simmered dish—"Wait, there’s more?"—featuring duck. This was the best duck I’ve ever had in my life. The incredibly tender meat was infused with the aroma of my favorite smoked flavor. I’ve eaten duck in various forms, from soba shops to French cuisine, but I always thought duck was supposed to be dry. This completely overturned my impression of duck.The eleventh dish was rice with sweet corn (kankan musume). It was plump and delightful.The twelfth dish was a fruit jelly with anglaise sauce. Only the "delicious parts" of various fruits were encapsulated in the jelly.The thirteenth dish was an indescribable "truly fresh water yokan" served with matcha. The spoon glided in effortlessly, maintaining its shape for a perfect bite, and as it entered my mouth, it melted between my tongue and palate, gently settling in my stomach. This was a wonderful yokan that could only be experienced here.Each dish was meticulously crafted in terms of color and presentation, and every dish stood out. Moreover, being served in museum-quality tableware made me smile. The seasonal decor throughout the space, typical of a Japanese restaurant, was soothing to the soul. The cleanliness of the well-maintained restroom was also very pleasant. This level of satisfaction is hard to come by. On my way home, after receiving a warm farewell, I vowed to return. Less

I visited for lunch, and the restaurant was fully booked. The clientele seemed to be mostly older patrons.The overall structure of the dishes was traditional, and I was pleasantly surprised to find a hassun (seasonal appetizer) included in the lunch course. Ingredients like conger eel, sea urchin, abalone, sweetfish, and corn were used, showcasing a summer theme, and each dish was consistently delicious.However, there weren't any major surprises or strong impressions left by the dishes; they were solid but perhaps a bit too conventional, for better or worse. One disappointment was the lack of greetings or conversation from the head chef from the beginning until the farewell. Less

Osaka, NishitenmaToday is Shoman, the time when silkworms begin to eat mulberry leaves. As the saying goes, "U no Hana Kusushi," it’s a humid, rainy day in Osaka.I headed north from Yodoyabashi to Nishitenma. The streets are surprisingly beautiful. There are so many foreigners here, it hardly feels like Japan.It’s been a while since I visited "Zeshin." I took a seat at the counter. It’s been about ten years since my first visit, and since I mentioned that my daughter’s name includes "Kaze" (wind), every time I come, I receive a coaster with the character "風" on it. My daughter is off to Okinawa for a school trip starting today.Now, for the first dish. Sesame tofu with abalone and jun-sai (water shield). The jun-sai from Akita is small but has a lot of jelly-like texture, making it delightful to eat. And the flavor of the sesame tofu is exquisite. It seems to have been blended so well that its texture is incredibly fine, surpassing the word "rich"—it’s something entirely different.Next, we have zunda (edamame) beans, Amela tomatoes, octopus, and vinegared hairy crab. Each has a different seasoning, some sweet, some sour, and each with its own texture, creating a wonderful dish. "Yes, my stomach is ready!"The soup features scallop shinjyo (a type of dumpling) and bamboo shoots. This dish has a unique sweetness flowing from the broth. "The flavor of the bamboo shoots really stands out."The sashimi includes toro-taku (fatty tuna with pickled radish) and striped jack, aged squid, and akou (red sea bream). "They’re attacking with different sweetnesses." The wasabi is exceptionally delicious today.Having passed Rikka and welcomed Shoman, my body feels a bit sluggish from the fatigue since the start of the year. So, they’ve infused layers of "sweetness" to nourish the body.For the hassun (seasonal platter). On a tray resembling yatsuhashi (a type of sweet), there are meat, fish, vegetables, dairy, and seafood. Decorated with irises, there are eight items in total. "They’re really particular about this!" The tempura of young sweetfish is incredibly delicious. "I can understand why sweetfish is called a fragrant fish."Next is a dish with round eggplant and sakura shrimp. "This sweetness is absolutely impossible to recreate at home!" It’s fascinating how the eggplant, when combined with the broth, gives off a tea-like aroma. The fried sakura shrimp, combined with that aroma, creates an extremely fragrant dish. "This is rare and difficult to achieve." I could never make something like this.The rice is anago (conger eel) rice. "So this is what you’re serving!" "I’ve never mentioned that I lived in Hiroshima!" I recognize the conger eel soy sauce rice as being based on "Ueno" in Miyajima. "This is an extremely, extremely delicate sweetness!" For some reason, today’s dishes are all showcasing the very best "sweetness".Finally, I had a sweet called "Kunpu" (fragrant breeze). It shares the same meaning as my daughter’s name. The sweet red bean paste mixed with yomogi (mugwort) adds a nice accent to the fragrant breeze.Ah, what a delight. "Delicious + Fun = I Love It!"The phrase that popped into my head while eating was quite difficult to express, but to serve such exquisite dishes is truly "something else." It deserves the highest praise.And the chef, Sekine-san’s, carefree smile is the best. I feel "healed" by the flavors and Sekine’s touch.I was so moved that I felt like I could lose my mind.Well then.*I’ve used this place many times, and it’s a restaurant for all ages. Even during lunch, they put effort into the hassun, showcasing the essence of kaiseki cuisine. From the beginning to the farewell, the chef’s greetings and conversations never cease. Thank you always! Also, I fell in love with the sake pairing. Less

June marks the anniversary festival.The competition for seats at the counter was fiercer than usual, so we opted for a private room this time.The food was, of course, exceptional, but the quality of the Japanese sake served was truly remarkable.We started with a refreshing dish that evoked the early summer vibe.For the second dish, we paired crab with the chef's recommendation, Kuro Ryu, which complemented it perfectly.Next, we were served a unique dish called "Niku-sui" that I had never seen before.I was impressed by the exquisite cooking of the conger eel, and the accompanying plum paste made it easy to enjoy with sake.From here on, it was a parade of incredible sake.The wonderful dishes continued all the way to the final course of warabi mochi.June offered a fantastic course! Less

A friend is coming from Tokyo, so we decided to visit Zeshin, a top-rated Japanese restaurant in Kitashinchi.We started with the appetizer: abalone, tomato with zunda (edamame paste), and a soup.Each dish was delicious.The sashimi was just average.Next, we had tempura of young sweetfish and baby corn, and shrimp with cheese. Hmm, is this more geared towards foreign visitors?Then came the eel. I wonder if this is a choice that foreigners tend to prefer?The shrimp and Miyazaki beef were also tasty.The soft-shelled turtle rice was delicious as well.We finished with a jelly made from various fruits, which was also delightful.Finally, we had matcha with yokan (sweet bean jelly).While everything was good, I didn't experience any surprising flavors that made me think, "Wow, how did they come up with this idea?" Honestly, if I'm spending close to JPY 30,000, there are other places with more options.Everything was tasty, though. (Am I being too picky?)Most of the other diners were foreigners.It was a great meal. Less

I visited in early May. Starting with freshly harvested junsai (water shield), the bamboo shoot soup featured the best seasonal ingredients. The sashimi, eel, and steak were all made with high-quality ingredients and cooked to perfection, providing a different delightful experience each time. This time, the rice dish was sea bream marinated in sesame. I enjoyed it on top of Kamakura-style rice, and for the second serving, I had it as ochazuke (rice with tea), which made me want to keep eating. Everything was flawless, and once again, it was a perfect experience. Less

I enjoyed a spring course meal close to the Tango no Sekku festival. The dish featured a variety of spring ingredients, presented in interesting combinations, and the plating was very beautiful. However, I was a bit disappointed that the rice dish was made with soft-shelled turtle. Many Chinese people do not eat soft-shelled turtle, and since it was a rare dish, I wasn't able to inform them in advance about my dislike for it. I had mentioned in the notes that I preferred a counter seat and that it was a birthday celebration, but there was no special acknowledgment of that. Other than that, the service was good. Less

I used this restaurant for a business dinner, so I have fewer photos.We reserved a private room, but the walls were thin, and I was constantly distracted by the loud laughter of a man in the adjacent room, making it hard to relax.The kaiseki cuisine was quite ordinary. For around JPY 25,000 per person, my expectations were not met. Honestly, there was nothing memorable about the dishes.While the thin walls were an issue, the overall atmosphere felt quite casual compared to other places in Kitashinchi.It's also unusual for a restaurant in this price range not to accept credit cards. With four people at the dinner, the total exceeded JPY 100,000, so I really don't understand why they only accept cash. I couldn't grasp the reasons behind the high ratings.I don't think I will return. Less

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【是しん】
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大阪・西天満に店を構える『是しん』。2013年創業。店名は、是か非かを常に自らに問い、流行や評価に左右されず「是」と信じた料理を貫くという姿勢から名付けられている。その思想は料理だけでなく、地下に広がる静かな空間にも通底する。数寄屋を思わせる設えや、茶室のように外界の情報を削ぎ落とした佇まい。余計な装飾を排し、料理と向き合うための温度だけが、きちんと整えられた場だ。

大将の関根崇一氏は、料理旅館の家に生まれ育ち、調理師学校を経て神戸吉兆で11年修業。日本料理の基礎技術と構成力を、時間をかけて身体に染み込ませてきた料理人である。その積み重ねの延長線上に、ミシュラン一つ星という結果がある。出汁の取り方、火入れ、組み立て、その一つ一つが崩れずに積み重なっていく、確かな安定感が魅力だ。

「八寸」は、その店の料理観を端的に語る。菊菜、海鼠の酢の物、鮟肝の酢味噌和え、海老真丈、車海老とクリームチーズ、ローストビーフ、牡蠣の燻製など。味の方向性は明確で、酸味、旨味、コクが整理されている。八寸を単なる品数の集合体にせず、酒肴としての流れを持たせている点に、この店の構成力が表れている。

続く河豚料理。「てっさ」は、河豚の旨味をきっちりと引き出した仕立て。淡白になりがちな素材だが、噛み締めるほどに滋味が広がり、河豚らしさが静かに立ち上がる。「白子」は対照的に、滑らかで濃度のある味わい。温度と質感のコントラストがはっきりしており、素材の力をそのまま提示する。

「御椀」は花びら真薯。ふんわりと軽やかな真薯に、鰹の香りがふわっと立ち上がる澄んだ出汁が寄り添う。金箔が視覚的な印象を残すが、出汁の香りと余韻が、お椀全体の軸として活躍している。

戸井産の「鮪」は、蕪のおろしと酸味を効かせたジュレを添えた一皿。脂のある鮪を重たく見せず、温度と酸で軽やかに着地させている。素材の格に寄りかかるのではなく、料理として成立させる設計が感じられる。お造りは、熟成した「アオリイカ」、豊後水道の「平目」、舞鶴の「鰆」を焼霜。それぞれのネタに合わせて厚みと包丁を変え、アオリイカはねっとりとした甘みを、平目は清らかな旨味を、鰆は香ばしさと脂を際立たせる。

「伊勢海老」は野菜とにつめたスープで。甲殻類の旨味を前面に出しながらも、和の文脈から逸脱しない仕立てで、コースの流れに自然に溶け込ませている。焼物は「鰆」の味噌焼きに「白魚」のおかき揚げを添える。味噌の香ばしさと鰆の脂、白魚の軽やかな食感が心地よい対比を生み、日本料理としての王道的な安心感がある。

「ツキノワグマ」は、熊の脂が持つ甘みを丁寧に引き出した仕立て。白味噌のやわらかなニュアンスが寄り添い、重たさを感じさせず、旨味として静かにまとまっていく。素材の強さを誇示するのではなく、コースの流れの中に自然に溶け込ませている点が印象的だ。「食事」は、甘鯛と唐墨の炊き込みご飯。炊き上げた米に甘鯛のふくよかな旨味が溶け込み、そこに唐墨の塩気と香りを重ねるという組み合わせが実にユニークだ。

「水物」は、果実を閉じ込めたゼリー寄せ。瑞々しさで口の中を一度リセットし、次へと自然につなげる。「甘味」は雪餅。甘さを抑え、最後までトーンを崩さず、静かに食後の余韻を閉じていく。

『是しん』の料理を通して強く残るのは、最後まで崩れない安定感だ。出汁の精度、火入れの確かさ、組み立ての整合性。そのすべてが高い水準で揃い長年積み重ねてきた仕事が、そのまま料理として表に出ている。安心して任せられる日本料理店とは、こういう存在だと思わせてくれる一軒である。ご馳走様でした。⁡
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