Foodle

Makitori Shinkobe is one of Tokyo’s most distinctive yakitori counters, known for cooking chicken entirely over wood fire rather than traditional charcoal. The restaurant gained a strong following under the original master Hikita-san, whose precise grilling and thoughtful seasoning helped establish the place as a benchmark for modern yakitori in Tokyo.

Recently, the torch was passed to the young chef Yoshiki Furukawa, who has taken over the kitchen. The structure of the meal remains largely unchanged: the same menu progression and many of the same ingredients—beautiful chicken cuts grilled over wood, delicate tsukune, liver, and seasonal vegetables—served on elegant ceramics across the counter.

Furukawa-san is clearly following in the footsteps of his mentor. Some skewers were already excellent, particularly those where the balance of smoke, fat, and seasoning came together perfectly. Others felt a touch less confident in their seasoning and final execution.

Still, for a young chef stepping into such large shoes, this was a very promising start. With time and repetition, the precision will surely sharpen.

Kudos to Furukawa-san. Less

Seiryuen (焼肉 静龍苑) is one of Tokyo’s legendary old-school yakiniku restaurants, quietly located in the eastern part of the city. The place is modest and unpretentious, with a nostalgic neighborhood atmosphere that has barely changed over the decades. Yet behind this simplicity lies some of the most satisfying yakiniku in Tokyo.

Seiryuen is famous for its deeply flavored marinades and excellent quality beef, cut thick and grilled directly at the table. Regulars often order a selection of marinated cuts along with classics like tongue and skirt steak, letting the meat caramelize over the grill while the sauce develops a rich, smoky depth.

There is nothing flashy here—no modern design or luxury presentation. Instead, Seiryuen represents the soul of traditional Tokyo yakiniku: generous portions, bold flavors, and a loyal following of diners who return again and again.

Personally, I tend to gravitate toward the newer generation of yakiniku restaurants such as Nakahara or Yoroniku, where the style is lighter, more refined, and often more nuanced. But places like Seiryuen remain an important reminder of where Tokyo’s yakiniku culture comes from. Less

A Farewell Dinner at Sézanne

This meal carried a certain emotional weight. It was my last dinner at Sézanne before Chef Daniel Calvert departs to open his own restaurant. Having followed his journey closely for many years, it felt like closing a chapter.

I have been part of this story almost from the beginning. When Daniel moved from Hong Kong to Tokyo in 2020 to open Sézanne at the Four Seasons Otemachi, I visited frequently during the soft-opening period—fifteen times with friends in those early months alone. Even earlier, when he was cooking at Belon, I remember telling people that one day he would earn three Michelin stars. Watching that prediction become reality has been one of the great pleasures of following his career.

What happened at Sézanne over the last years has been extraordinary. The restaurant quickly rose to become the highest ranked restaurant in Japan on the World’s 50 Best list, and it has now held three Michelin stars for two consecutive years. Quite simply, it does not get better than this.

A Unique Culinary Identity

Daniel has carved out a truly distinctive niche.

He is an Englishman, classically French-trained under some of the great chefs of Europe and the United States. His first major leadership role came in Hong Kong, where Chinese ingredients and techniques inevitably influenced his cooking. Then he moved to Tokyo, where he embraced the Japanese supply chain and the extraordinary producers available here.

The result is cuisine that feels deeply French in structure yet global in spirit, executed with the precision and ingredient purity that Japan allows.

Just looking at the supplier list on the menu tells the story. Ingredients come from exceptional producers such as:
• Akkeshi oysters from Hokkaido
• Kinki from Abashiri
• Botan ebi from Himi
• Fruits from Kiyota Fruits in Tokyo
• Truffles from Truffle Hill in Western Australia
• Cheeses from Fromagerie Bernard Antony in France

This blend of Japanese sourcing and European culinary technique is the foundation of Sézanne’s identity.

A Kitchen at Full Maturity

What was especially impressive during this final visit was how perfectly the kitchen now runs. Daniel has built and trained a team capable of executing this cuisine at the highest level with remarkable consistency. The restaurant feels fully established—confident, precise, and effortless.

Every course was excellent, but two dishes in particular captured the essence of the meal.

Kinki with Saffron

The charcoal-grilled kinki from Abashiri was a masterclass in fish cookery.

The interior was glassy and translucent, cooked exactly to that fragile point where the flesh is just set but still shimmering with natural oils. The skin, by contrast, was perfectly crisp. The subtle sweetness of the fish was gently underlined by saffron, which added depth without overpowering the purity of the ingredient.

This is one of those dishes where technique disappears and only the essence of the fish remains.

Megumi Duck

The Megumi duck from Aichi Prefecture was equally outstanding.

The cuisson was flawless: the meat tender and rosy, the skin lacquered and crisp, and the layer of fat beneath rendered precisely enough to release its umami without leaving any heaviness or greasiness. The sauce—classic and deeply flavored—completed the dish without distracting from the quality of the duck itself.

It was a dish of great restraint and confidence.

A Memorable Farewell

Meals like this remind you why restaurants such as Sézanne matter. It is not only about luxury or prestige—it is about the rare moment when talent, ingredients, team, and vision align perfectly.

Watching Daniel Calvert’s evolution—from Hong Kong to Tokyo, from promising young chef to the leader of one of the world’s great restaurants—has been remarkable.

This dinner felt like the closing scene of that chapter.

What a beautiful farewell meal.

I wish Daniel all the very best for the next stage of his journey. If his past trajectory is any indication, the next chapter will be just as exciting. Less