Foodle

Fire-roasted green chile bacon cheeseburger at The Melt 🍔
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L’Assiette - Paris (France)

Although Cassoulet originates from southern France, it was one of the dishes that I was more excited to eat during my days in Paris. I hold this slow-cooked white bean stew dearly in my heart and was eager to find a good one in the city.

Not much effort was needed to come across L’Assiette, an excellent neighborhood bistro from @rathgeberdavid. It is located a bit farther away from the city center, which meant a pleasant bike ride to open up the appetite and build expectations.

Expectations that were exceeded by the aforementioned cassoulet. The beans were nicely cooked, offering a gentle resistance upon being bitten. The stew in itself was dense and rich, while the combination of different meats took everything to the next level. It was served fresh and bubbling hot, with a beautiful dark brown crust on top.

The escargots were also sublime, immersed in a garlic and parsley paste under a crispy and oily crouton. It might just have been my favorite ever, setting a new standard when it comes to these flavorful snails.

White asparagus were in season, so we could not miss out on a cold soup made with them, that gave a refreshing touch to an otherwise very hearty meal.

(Versão em Português nos comentários) Less

Gulluoglu - Gaziantep (Turkey)

@gulluoglu is the OG baklava brand in Gaziantep. If I had to select one reason that made me visit the city, Gulluoglu would be it. Upon arriving at the shop, I was received by @muratgullu, who was kind enough to share his knowledge with me.

Mr Murat is the owner of the historic brand and part of the sixth generation of the family who pioneered the recipe of baklava in Turkey.

He proudly told me that, back in the 1800s, his family and that very same shop were dedicated to selling kebabs. However, one of his ancestors, during a pilgrimage to Mecca, noticed people selling the pastry in the cities of Aleppo and Damascus (which are now in Syrian territory, but back then were all part of the Ottoman empire). This gave him the business idea and once he came back to Antep, he started to slowly shift the family’s focus from kebabs to baklava.

Long story short, this generated a whirlwind effect on the whole city that ultimately made Gaziantep baklava what it is today, one generation at a time perfecting the craft and passing it on to the next one.

Mr Gullu did not charge me for the feast nor for the history lesson. While he enjoyed his kadayif, he pointed out the differences between each piece on my plate: The midye for example, was a baklava variation with kaymak stuffed inside its mussel-shaped form. Another interesting one was the dolama, which is cylindrically rolled and has more pistachios in its composition.

I was also taught how to use all my senses in the baklava-tasting process: Smelling the buttery notes that filled the nostrils, looking at the bottom of the pastry to see how shiny it was, hearing the elegant crunch once the first bite was taken and then finally tasting it on the palate once the tongue touched the dough.

During our conversation, a cart arrived straight from the factory, carrying a fresh batch of baklava. We instantly paused our chat to examine it in detail and taste it right out of the oven.

Meeting Mr Murat Gullu was one of the biggest joys of all my food journeys, and in our time together we shared much more than a table. I was told stories from a centenary tradition that he so proudly keeps alive. Less

Metanet Lokantasi - Gaziantep (Turkey)

It is early morning in Gaziantep. And as a new day begins, locals head to their favorite joint for a hot bowl of Beyran, a local lamb soup that is a staple in the Antepli breakfast culture. As for myself, I decided to try the dish at the famous @metanetlokantasi.

At the back of the shop, fresh bread was being baked, emanating in the air its characteristic aroma. The bread was thoughtfully thick, allowing it to soak up all of the broth.

But enough with the bread and let me get back to the central figure here. The Usta, or master if you will, expertly prepared each metal bowl by pressing together a mix of pre-cooked shredded lamb meat, rice and lamb fat, which in my personal opinion is the real key that makes the dish so special.

The bowl was then cooked over a jet flame for a few seconds, just enough for the ingredients to mesh. Additional spices were added, including garlic and chilli powder, as well a bit of the lamb broth.

The beyran was then quickly served, still pipping hot and requiring attention from the customers not to burn themselves.

The soup had a porridge-like consistency due to the rice. It was rich and comforting, with a gentle spicy touch. The melted fat connected the whole thing, and the strands of lamb were tender and abundant.

I could easily take down a bowl of beyran at any time, but have to admit that I cannot think of a better food to get the day ahead started.

(Versão em Português nos comentários) Less

Kebapçı Halil Usta - Gaziantep (Turkey)

It would be impossible to write about Gaziantep’s food and not mention its kebab scene.

They can be found all over town and are a longstanding cornerstone of the city’s culinary heritage, deeply connected with its privileged location on the ancient Silk Road, which made it an important hub for spice exchange.

The city supposedly had more than 30 different kinds of kebabs. And one of the most famous establishments specializing in these meaty skewers is @kebapcihalilusta.

I went to Halil Usta looking for one specific variation, the Kusleme kebab. Cooked over charcoal, the Kusleme is a lean part of the lamb near the backbone. It is considered a more expensive and noble cut as there are only two pieces that come from each animal.

The kebabs were served in thick pieces, all of which were juicy and packed with a distinctive meaty flavor. It was served with a fresh salad that seemed to be one of the house’s specialties and that complimented the kebab really well, alongside a fresh serving of bread and a glass of ayran.

(Versão em Português nos comentários) Less

I had just finished a heavy lunch when I arrived at LV The Place Restaurant; and so a light dessert was the only thing on my mind. But gluttony raised its ugly head again—and I decided to check out the savouries by Chef Vix Rathour. Thank goodness: because they were brilliant—and so different from what I tasted when the restaurant first opened. I was bowled over by the execution and finesse. And the flavours no longer jarred: just a flow and aesthetic that was beautiful. The happy ending was by Chef Dej—newly created desserts featuring different colour themes and tastes. Well done, chefs. Now, the menu truly lives up to the lustre of LV! Less