Providence Cicero

It's been too long since I twirled pasta at Tuscan-inspired Cantinetta. I'm happy to report it's as good as I remember. A recent dinner at the Bellevue branch included these lovely primi: malfade with rabbit ragu, pici cacio e pepe, and tagliatelle with pancetta, egg, and pecorino. Gracious service, irresistible Nutella-filled zepole, and a resplendent tiramisu added to the evening's pleasures. Looking forward to trying the new Bar Cantinetta on Capitol Hill soon.

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A relaxed vibe, polished service, and excellent food and drink made for a magical Saturday night @atoma.seattle. Highlights included the Vesper-like Gin to Win cocktail, the must-have savory rosette cookie, deviled crab and egg salad under crab phat hollandaise, kanpachi crudo, lamb saddle with a lamb belly dolma, sturgeon with Tokyo turnips and sea urchin butter, and Baked Alaska with malted parsnip ice cream and double chocolate cake beneath a burnt meringue dome. Now in its third year, Atoma feels fully and beautifully formed. Kudos to chef @johnnydcourtney and the entire team.

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Holiday revelry began in earnest @copineproject last Saturday night. Caviar; foie gras tart; Dungeness crab salad with apple sorbet; chestnut agnolotti; wild mushroom & Brussels sprout vol-au-vent; bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin; and blood orange mousse sheathed in chocolate with vanilla Grand Marnier ice cream. Alas, no photo of the sherry-kissed Martini Provencal made by @angleerick. As always, lovely food, seamless service, warm hospitality. Copine est magnifique!

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Dinner @autumnseattle was a cozy, relaxed respite from the furious weather outside. The opener was rockfish crudo with blood orange and prosciutto. Next, a chicory Ceasar and a stunningly delicious sunchoke confit with ricotta, pepita salsa macha and duck fat aioli. Finally, spaghetti with smoked fish, lemon and tobiko. Cà Gialla Roero Arneis was a great wine match for it all. Tieler and Daniella provided sterling service. Autumn, in Phinney, is part of @generalharvestseattle, a group of polished neighborhood restaurants that includes Vendemmia and Raccolto. Looking forward to the reopening soon of Eldr, closed by a fire.

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Houlme is a Nordic word meaning "tiny island." This tiny PNW island harbors a chef with huge talent. Every dish on Jay Blackinton's a la carte menu @houlmerestaurant was thoughtful, intentional, sourced from close by, and indescribably delicious. The restaurant's post-pandemic remodel has increased the size of the kitchen as well as the comfort of the dining room. Smart service added to the pleasures of the table. The menu is a la carte. Don't skip the pizza. Consider it the bread course.

In order above:

Local oysters

Cured Albacore

Grilled & braised alliums beneath caramelized hazelnuts, toasted rye crumbs & salmon roe

Skewered carrots glazed with hot honey & sake

"Summer Things:" shoots, leaves & flowers, runny egg, cream sauce.

Pizza with new potatoes marinated in garlic & chili & mortadella arranged all on one side to accommodate those in the group who don't eat meat. (Not me!)

Black cod hidden beneath wax beans alongside a pool of buerre blanc.

Blueberry tart and peaches with buttermilk ice cream.

Jay Blackinton in his element.

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What an evening @canlisrestaurant !! A beautiful menu by newly named executive chef James Huffman conjured midsummer magic. Service is as sharp as ever. No detail was overlooked. Thank you @pepone86 @trailgrazer99, our server, Sophie, and the entire Canlis team.

Photos:
1) Cocktails at the bar.
2) Little bites to start: tempura fried okra & crabmeat on kohlrabi
3) Wagyu-wrapped oyster
4) Cheddar cheese & apple tartlet topped with caviar
5) Bread course: mini foccacia, spinach dip, cultured butter, rhubarb honey
6) Summer squash with fried blossoms, apricot, goat cheese & a croquette
7) English pea flan with morels, snap peas & mint
8) Dry-aged, lightly seared king salmon with sunchoke, yogurt & Meyer lemon
9) Denver steak, kalbi sauce & onions 3 ways
10) Olive oil cake, strawberries & buttermilk shortbread
11 &12) That view!

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The second Sunday of the month means lunch can be had @copineproject. The menu depends on the whim of chef @shaunmccrain. Limited seating at the bar only & reservations are a must. Today's menu was an ode to summer. Highlights included a fruit salad of compressed watermelon with strawberries, pistachio cream, chevre & dukkah; brandade raviolo in parmesan dashi with artichoke, olive, tomato & basil; and peach melba with raspberries & a vanilla tuille, a dessert beautifully matched with a delicate young sherry by @rate_my_pair. Copine will cease to exist by year's end. Enjoy it while you can.

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