Foodle

in o’grove, spain (july’24)

ending my europe trip with a small detour to o’grove for the famous d’berto for some seafood from the galician shore.

we began with their complementary seafood empanada and a galician veg & choirzo soup which was quite nice, before trying the seafood offerings today. we had some side by sides of different species of clams, big vs small which was quite interesting. favourite here were hands down their razor clams, the more plump ‘longueiron’ over the classic ‘navajas.’ the shellfish in this side of spain is noticeably different in a good way, there is a good balance of fresh and salt water composition here making it the perfect for shellfish. the raw clams were also very nice, we also got one cooked in oil and one in marinera which was like apple sauce. also tried their spider crab which was okay, a bit too salty for my preference as they salt bake it so along with the existing natural sea water flavour. ended with their famed lobster, half fried and half grilled. i prefer the fried one with some of the flesh still half raw, so the umami of the lobster was more apparent. ended with a cheesecake and galician crepe - filloa.

nice to tick this place off my list, some seafood items weren’t available on the day of our visit but still pretty happy we got to sample a fair amount of signatures and a taste of galician seafood. good shellfish and cooking but seasoning is a little salty to my taste and is located way too far from everywhere else and wasn’t mind-blown enough to trek here more than once.
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✨almeja xl natural: raw big clams (€6/each)
✨carneiros: raw clams (€5/each)
almejas sarten: fried clams (€5.5/each)
almejas a la marinera: clams with marinera (€5.5/each)
necora a la sal: salted crab (€42.5)
✨navajas: razor clams (€3.75/each)
✨longueiron xl: larger razor clams (€5/each)
bogte brasa y frito: fried and grilled lobster (€110.5)
caldo gallego: galician soup (€4)
tarta queso: cheesecake (€9)
filloa nata miel: cream and honey galician crepe (€8)
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: €60-€100
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📍MARISQUERÍA D’BERTO
location: rúa teniete domínguez 84, o’grove, pontevera, spain
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in osaka, japan (aug’24)

started my long long trip to japan this summer at torisho ishii, one of the spots in osaka i’ve been keen on visiting. famed for using takasaka jidori, one of the most high regarded chicken breeds in japan, it really didn’t disappoint. taisho was so nice & funny, ventilation here was also second to none.

this was my first experience with this breed of chicken and it really stands out dramatically from the rest. the liver and chouchin to date have been one of my top pieces here, can’t wait to try his shiro liver next time. i love his perfect balance of crisp skin and still keeping the interior of the meats mildly raw. another highlight here for me which sets it apart from other places are the creative tsumamis, from the mini chicken burgers to the corn and jidori rice in the middle. the ever-changing shime course also makes each visit exciting and different. this time we had hiyashi chuka and a keema curry which were both very good. ended with an amazing milk pudding with vanilla salt.

a perfect evening and such a good meal to start my long trip. can’t wait to be back in december, definitely added into the list of my regular rotations.

おまかせコース (¥15,000):
高坂鶏のムネ ベビーリーフのサラダ chicken salad
✨枝豆豆腐 edamame tofu
✨抱き身 breast with skin
むねすじ おろしポン酢 breast with ponzu
✨せせり seseri
✨肝 liver
✨チキンバーガートマトとバジルソース chicken burger
ソリレスupper thigh
さえずりchicken airway
手羽先の唐揚げfried chicken wing
✨マコモダケ manchurian wild rice
かしわ 山葵 thigh with yama wasabi
京都七谷鴨生胡椒 grilled duck
ハツもとheart
砂肝 gizzard
つくね chicken meatball
✨炊き込みご飯 mixed rice

+うずら卵 quail eggs
+カチョカバロチーズ焼き grilled cheese
+✨ちょうちん chouchin

冷やし中華 chinese cold noodles
キーマカレー keema curry
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍鳥匠 いし井
location: 3-4-11 nishi tenma, kita-ku, osaka
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in hiroshima, japan (aug’24)

stopped by hiroshima for the day and made our way to this little shop a distance away from the city center. an innovative twist in japanese cooking, which to me didn’t really hit the ‘innovative’ nor traditional genre. still struggling to pin point the style of chef’s cooking, and for me this meal fell short of its accolades.

began with a refreshing suppon jelly, and a raw ayu dish with cucumbers. the grilled ayu on rice with sansho was one of my favourites of the lunch, also liked the juicy shiro nasu of the owan. suppon karage was very enjoyable and the steamed isaki resembled that of cantonese cooking. ended with a generous slice of venison on and off the grill with a sweet confit onion puree, before a serving of gohan with octopus, tomato and shiso. i liked the basil ice cream a lot, terrine pudding was average, expected more flavour from the burnt sugar caramel.

a nice meal but had no wow factors or excitement, nothing drawing me back to return nor urge to recommend anyone to make the hike just for it.
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ランチおまかせコース (¥16,500):
夏野菜 すっぽん煮凝り suppon jelly, summer veg
天然鮎胡瓜 raw ayu and cucumber salad
✨焼き鮎飯蒸 grilled ayu on rice
廿日市白茄子のお椀 white eggplant
山口県天然すっぽんのからげ suppon karage
蒸しイサキ、ネギ steamed isaki
蝦夷鹿 roast venison
瀬戸内蛸飯 octopus rice
✨バジルアイス basil ice cream
プリン pudding terrine
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would revisit: try once if in the area
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍アカイ AKAI
location: 4-3-41 miyajimaguchi, hatsukaichi, hiroshima
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in hiroshima, japan (aug’24)

trip to hiroshima was mainly for this sushiya right in the city center hidden in plain sight. not just very good cospa, the neta here were very unique to the coast of hiroshima and the style of taisho himself. steering clear of flashy ingredients but putting unconventional twists and highlighting ingredients from around the area.

we began the meal strong with raw hamo, the first time i’ve tried this method of serving and was surprisingly really tasty, slightly marinated in sake on a bed of hamo eggs. next was ayu, confit and baked with cherry tomatoes almost taking a western approach. raw karasumi with aori ika was also another favourite tsumami here, almost a thick sauce like texture to eat with the aori ika. neta here focuses on shiromi and less on the tunas hence his shari was slightly on the mild end. one of the most memorable was the raw anago, first time trying this as well and was pretty surprising in texture and flavour. ended with a really lovely dashimaki tamago oden style, made a la minute. taisho was also extremely friendly and welcoming, spectrum of great drinks, especially loved the fruit sakes here, highly recommend visiting when in hiroshima.

おまかせコース (¥22,000)
✨生鱧、鱧卵 raw hamo, hamo eggs
✨鮎と焼きトマト ayu confit with tomatoes
✨アオリイカと生唐墨 aori ika, raw karasumi
蒸し鮑 steamed abalone
鰻炭火焼焼き grilled unagi
狩留家茄子の茶碗蒸 eggplant chawanmushi

✨白甘鯛 shiro amadai
剣先烏賊 kensaki ika
✨生穴子 anago
松鯛車海老 kuruma ebi
鱚 kisu
鰺 aji
蛤 hamaguri
鯵棒寿司 saba
鉄火巻 tekka maki
赤うに aka uni
煮穴子 anago
干瓢卷 kanpyo
✨玉 egg
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍魚喰い切り壮士 SOHSHI
location: 5-18 tatemachi, naka ward, hiroshima
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in shimabara, japan (aug’24)

made it to what feels like the edge of japan after a whole morning of travelling into shimabara, nagasaki. a city that feels like we were transported back in time. serving hyper-local ingredients in particular seafood around the shimabara bay, with ingredients straight from his father’s fish shop next door. with very clean cooking, highlighting and maximising the natural flavours with the most beautiful presentation to match its scenery.

started with an anchovy potato tart, uni and onion puff, and a natural kuruma ebi stuffed with a egg mayo salad. ‘shimabara salad’ with local rice, kelp and uni, with a light hint of sesame oil was interesting, really loved the broth made of ham, kelp and mushroom with a huge local rock oyster. the same ham of the broth was also served with fried hamo, before the signature dish of octopus tenticles and okra which was too pretty to eat. the next signature blue crab somen was one of my favourites of the lunch, as shimabara is known for their local somen, the texture and flavour of this was sososo good. was wow-ed by the cold brew niboshi broth which served with the unagi, made with anchovies abundant in this area. before ending with a seafood caldozo, and a anko, wasanbon sugar dessert with cheese ice-cream.

so far away but worthy of a trek, completely highlighting the seafood produce of this region of japan which is still somewhat undiscovered. simple cooking with so much depth of flavours, looking forward to his menus in other seasons, will be back the next time i’m around kyushu.
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tasting menu (¥32,670)
✨浜辺の散歩: anchovy tart
✨波紋のように: uni puff
✨余韻: kuruma ebi with egg salad, shimabara rice & kelp salad, rock oyster broth
「fish & ham」
タコの花束: octopus bouquet
✨ガネ素麺: blue crab somen
✨海鰻: unagi
菜園のなかで: steamed kue in fig leaves
ひとつの鍋: seafood rice
懷味: anko, wasanbon sugar, cheese ice cream
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would revisit: yes
introduction only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍PESCECO
location: 223-1 shinbabamachi, shimabara, nagasaki
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in nagoya, japan (aug’24)

continued my trip for a quick dinner in nagoya, a highly sought after neighbourhood sushiya known for his kuruma ebis. overall really good cospa, and glad i ticked this place off my list but the rustic style and mild flavour in shari was not my preferred cup of tea.

tsumami was influenced with kaiseki preparations, contrasting nigiris and leaning on bolder flavours, like the very strong briny awabi kimo sauce udon and the teriyaki sauce grilled maguro. in the nigiri segment, kuruma ebi was served two ways as the first pieces, one which has been blanched for around 30 seconds so its mostly raw and one which is fully cooked. was quite an interesting comparison which is rarely served elsewhere. in between nigiris, some hot dishes were also served like the ‘shako miso’ which is like a miso meat sauce mix. these dishes had such strong flavour it contrasted so much with the nigiris causing a bit of palate confusion haha.

ended with 2 tamagoyakis, one as like a cooked sweet omelette, one as castella form, then another poached egg in the miso soup which completely stuffed me up. a good try and a semi-accessible sushiya when in nagoya.
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おまかせコース (¥22,000)
梅入り茶碗蒸し ume chawanmushi
先付: 雲丹、長芋の豆腐 uni, nagaimo tofu
鱧のお椀 hamo owan
鮑天麩羅稲庭うどん肝ソース abalone tempura udon
照り焼きマグロ teriyaki tuna
お口直しフルーツトマト シャインマスカット shine muscat & fruit tomato

✨車海老レア rare kuruma ebi
✨車海老 kuruma ebi
✨車海老頭焼き grilled kuruma ebi head
真鯛昆布締め madai
米茄子シャコ味噌 eggplant ‘shako miso’
縞鯵 shima-aji
✨新イカ shin-ika
新イカの下足焼き grilled shin-ika tenticles
干瓢山葵 kanpyo with wasabi
✨煮蛤 hamaguri
岩もずく mozuku
雲丹 uni
出汁玉子焼き dashimaki tamagoyaki
本鮪赤身 akami
中ト口 chutoro
山葵のお吸い物 wasabi soup
烏賊雲丹海苔巻き squid and uni maki
穴子 anago
とろたく手巻き torotaku
赤玉汁 miso soup and egg
カステラ卵 castella egg
ぷりん matcha pudding
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍鮨旬美西川 SUSHI SHUNBI NISHIKAWA
location: 2-29-19 meieki, nakamura ward, nagoya
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

august visit to one of the temples of washoku, despite today’s menu not being very strong given the seasonal limitations, its always such a privilege to be back.

the style here is very clean but elegant, a tad more innovative with their menu this month, like the different ‘salads’ on chinese lantern (鬼灯) petals and their take on a zhong-zi. today’s owan featured a fluffy egg ball stuffed with okra (水玉) with amadai, a staple dish which is served from their dashi. pristine seafood from the ishikawa coast to be used for their otsukuri which is always one of the highlights here, featuring local flatfish and aka-ika, as well as katsuo and my favourite botan ebi. i loved the candied ginger on sticks that came with the grilled ayu, and wowed by the suppon jelly with ebi and okra. as always had tried all their shime of the day, first time having their tachiuo tendon which was mindblowingly good. their tkg is also my favourite rendition i’ve had so far.

very grateful and thankful for the invitations i’ve had to visit this place. i usually tend to prioritise new shops for my trips to japan, but this probably one of the only places in japan i’m not tired of revisiting, but rather ecstatic to try their monthly changing menus. a place i am more than happy to make the special journey for a meal here if invited again. looking forward to my next visit, and hopefully many more to come.
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8月のコース: (¥42,000)
ところてん cold tokoroten (agar noodles)
甘鯛と水玉オクラのお椀 amadai, egg ball with okra
✨お造り: 赤イカとマゴチ aka ika, flathead fish
鬼灯三種盛り: デラウェアみぞれ和え 芋茎胡麻和え ずん
だの白和え houzuki salad: delware grapes, taro stem, edamame
✨お造り2: ヒラソウダガツオと牡丹エビ katsuo, botan ebi
富山宮川の鮎 grilled ayu
蓮の実、新蓮根、梅肉の飯蒸し steamed rice
✨スッポンの煮凝り suppon jelly
✨長芋の座揚げと鮑の天ぷら chinese yam, abalone tenpura
ヘタ紫ナスの翡翠茄子 simmered eggplant
鮎のお刺身と胡瓜 ayu sashimi on cucumber salad
✨ご飯、味噌汁、お新香、牛肉の八幡巻き rice, condiments
✨鰹づけ丼 katsuo-zuke don
✨太刀魚の天丼 tachiuo tendon
✨卵かけご飯 tkg
梅干しのお茶漬け ume ochazuke
✨蓮根餅と抹茶 renkon mochi
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would revisit: yes
members only
price range pp: ¥30,000-¥60,000
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📍片折
location: 3-36 namikimachi, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

there are a considerable number of soba spots in kanazawa, stopped by one of them and was super impressed. a really beautiful house hidden in the residential district behind the train station with discreet signs. started with a lovely soba miso with local zucchini, and a mixed tempura which were really enjoyable. opted for their duck soba, really loved the texture and pronounced wheat flavour in the soba. their texture was actually quite special, seems somewhat ‘al-dente’ and a little bit springy, and works really really well with the rich duck tare. the pieces of roast duck within were also really tasty, could imagine how satisfying this would be in winter times.

a lovely lunch spot that i’d love to come back when i’m next in kanazawa. really love the spacious house this soba-ya resides in and tatami seatings as well, a really great find.
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天ぷら盛り合わせ assorted tempura (¥1600)
✨そば味噌 soba miso (¥800)
✨鴨ざるそば hot duck broth with cold soba (¥2300)
そばの香プリン soba pudding (¥450)
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would revisit: yes, when in kanazawa
reservations by call
price range pp: ¥1000-¥3000
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📍手打蕎麦 こより
location: 2-20-13 nagata, kanazawa
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in kanazawa, japan (aug’24)

made it to kanazawa’s most famous yakitori-ya, headed by torishiki’s ikegawa san’s most respected disciple, whom also previously had a short stint in shanghai.

overall thought it was a solid meal, didn’t really have too many standout pieces and chicken quality also wasn’t the best. i really enjoyed the grill corn and tomato. but overall the char in the pieces weren’t distinct, and the level of doneness in the pieces fluctuated a lot. amount of food here was also not too much, ended with a choice of two gohans where almost everyone in the meal ordered oomori (large size). their rice course was probably the most enjoyble, their take on soboro don was unique and delicious with burdock and their smoky grilled yasai in oyako don - a bit on the soupy side but flavour was decent. ended with a nice and refreshing kiwi panna cotta with grand marnier jelly.

a nice try and decent yakitori outpost in kanazawa, for me not too memorable but glad i tried it out. still stand by the thought that ikegawa san’s disciples and him still stray some distance in terms of grill skills.
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おまかせコース: (¥13,500)
✨高坂鳥もろにく takasaka chicken
かしわ kashiwa
✨とうもろこし corn
ちょうちん chouchin
厚揚げ fried tofu
ささみ sasami
せせり seseri
✨白レバー white liver
✨トマト tomato
新生姜入りつくね ginger tsukune
ハツ heart
手羽先 chicken wing
✨そぼろ丼 soboro don
✨夏野菜の親子丼 vegetable oyako don
ブランマンジェ grand marnier pudding
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would revisit: try once
reservations online
price range pp: ¥10,000-¥30,000
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📍 蛤坂まえかわ
location: 1-1-9 nomachi, kanazawa
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