Foodle

Botteghe Antiche sits in the historic center of Putignano, on Piazza Plebiscito, in what was once the area of the town’s old artisan shops. Chef-patron Stefano D’Onghia came relatively late to professional cooking, graduating from ALMA in 2007 and training with Gualtiero Marchesi before working in several Italian kitchens and eventually returning to his hometown. His stated philosophy is straightforward: preserve the memory of traditional Apulian cooking, respect seasonality and small producers, and bring those dishes back to life without unnecessarily modernizing them. In 2025 he described the restaurant’s direction as a deliberate return toward the idea of a true village trattoria.

This was an unbelievably good lunch — quite simply one of the best osteria meals I have had in Italy.

What impressed me most was how precise the cooking was while remaining completely recognizable as traditional Puglian food. Nothing felt heavy or rustic for the sake of being rustic. Instead there was excellent balance, clean flavors and surprisingly sophisticated layering.

We started with the Apulian gazpacho with burrata, followed by fava beans and chicory, one of those deceptively simple dishes that depends entirely on ingredient quality and proportion. The fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and mint were equally convincing.

The exceptional dish, however, was the fried lampascioni with capocollo, farinella and fig reduction. Lampascioni have their characteristic bitterness, but here the balance between bitter, salty, sweet and earthy flavors was extraordinary. Even more remarkable was the texture: incredibly crisp outside while retaining the character of the bulb. The layering of flavors and sheer precision of the frying would shame many Michelin-starred kitchens.

The handmade cavatelli with octopus and chickpea purée continued at the same level — tender octopus, excellent pasta texture and the creamy chickpeas bringing everything together without overwhelming it. Homemade tagliatelle with guanciale, zucchini flowers, roasted cherry tomatoes and farmhouse cheese was richer but still remarkably controlled.

We finished with perhaps the most uncompromisingly local dish: marretto, lamb offal wrapped into a roll, grilled and served with potatoes. Proper Puglian cooking, executed with confidence rather than dressed up for visitors.

Botteghe Antiche calls its approach “authentic tradition, modern simplicity,” and that describes the meal extremely well.

Perfect execution, deeply rooted cooking and tremendous flavor. I will definitely come back. Less

Everything was delicious, but I particularly enjoyed the fried tofu with fuki no tou (butterbur) and the soba with sakura shrimp.The dessert, which included mochi in the monaka, was also a nice touch.The portion size of the course was just right, and I felt very satisfied.The soy sauce for the sashimi had a unique flavor that was delightful, making it a great pairing with drinks. Less

Osteria del Tempo Perso is one of Ostuni’s long-established institutions. The restaurant has been operating since the 1980s and is set in atmospheric historic rooms carved into the pale stone of the old town, including a former oven dating back several centuries. The surroundings are certainly memorable, but the food remains firmly grounded in traditional Puglian cooking rather than trying to turn the setting into the main attraction.

By this stage of our trip we had eaten many variations of exactly these dishes, which actually makes judging them easier: after enough repetitions, one becomes something of a specialist and starts comparing the details very directly.

We started with grano pestato with Caciocavallo fondue and black truffle, a very satisfying combination of rustic, chewy grain and rich melted cheese. The traditional parmigiana di melanzane was equally good: comforting, properly cooked and without any unnecessary attempt at reinvention.

The chargrilled octopus on rosemary chickpea purée was one of the strongest dishes, the octopus nicely charred outside while remaining tender, with the chickpeas giving it the earthy backbone that works so naturally with this style of southern Italian cooking.

The spaghetti with fresh sea urchin was perhaps the most delicate dish of the evening: simple, marine and properly focused on the ricci rather than overwhelming them with additional ingredients.

We then had the slow-cooked pork ribs glazed with honey, accompanied by potato chips, rich and comforting, with a simple mixed salad providing some necessary relief.

Almost as an extra, we added the Fassona tartare with stracciatella and black truffle as the final dish. Richer and more luxurious than the rest of the meal, it still worked very well at that stage and was another confidently executed plate.

Overall, everything was good. Nothing revolutionary, and it does not need to be. After eating our way through Puglia and repeatedly encountering many of the same ingredients and preparations, Osteria del Tempo Perso held up very well in direct comparison. The cooking is traditional, assured and polished through decades of repetition rather than transformed into something it was never meant to be — and that is precisely its strength. Less

味玉入り昆布水つけ麺 / Ajitama-iri Kombusui Tsukemen / Ichiban Dashi Ramen Shinsen — Nishi-Chofu, Tokyo

Clear soup uses pork, chicken and niboshi, with koikuchi shoyu tare. Homemade noodles contain whole wheat flour, served in kombu water. Ajitama, onion, green negi, low-temperature pork chashu, lime, nori.

The master trained at Torikoku Chūka Suzuki in Mitaka. 18 seats. Open since September 28th, 2022. Less

Course: JPY 44,000Additional rice dishes x2Numerous alcoholic beveragesTotal: JPY 95,070This tempura restaurant is a 10-minute taxi ride from Shizuoka Station. I made a reservation during my last visit and returned to enjoy another meal.● New Onion and Fennel SoupThe sweetness of the onion blends beautifully with the subtle bitterness of the fennel. The smooth and clear umami flavor is irresistible.● Hata (Grouper)With each bite, a strong umami flavor bursts forth.● Tiger Pufferfish and Ise LobsterThis dish is cooked slowly at low temperature and then grilled over charcoal. While the sweetness isn’t overwhelming, it is rich and flavorful. The unique taste and texture are unlike anything I’ve experienced before.Now, let’s start the tempura.◯ Koshiabura (Japanese wild vegetables)A hint of sweetness with a moderate bitterness.◯ Mebaru (Rockfish)Freshly fried tempura is served in a generous amount of grated daikon and dipping sauce. The flesh is plump and juicy.◯ Broad Beans◯ Round EggplantThe meat is firm, and the flavor is robust.◯ Aori Ika (Bigfin Reef Squid)Rare in the center with a moist texture. It has a smooth, almost mochi-like mouthfeel.◯ Kasago (Rockfish)Fluffy and rich in flavor.◯ Kogomi (Fiddlehead Fern)◯ Tara no Me (Sprout of Cod)The batter is extremely thin. It has a pleasant bitterness and a rich taste that is delicious.◯ Amadai (Sweetfish)Crispy scales. The flesh is fluffy and juicy.◯ Baby Corn● SaladA delicious salad filled with fresh local vegetables.◯ Shiro Amadai (White Sweetfish)A new creation topped with yuzu, vinegar, and daikon foam?◯ New OnionI was moved by the clear sweetness and melting texture. It was even more delicious than usual.◯ Okose (Scad)◯ Make Queen (Potato)Tempura coated with buffalo butter and sprinkled with salt. The flesh is firm and doesn’t fall apart, with a sticky texture. The aroma and flavor of the potato burst forth when it enters your mouth.◯ Ume (Sea Eel)The sea eel, coated with wasabi, is enjoyed with rice. This dish stands out for its rich umami flavor rather than its fat content.● Tendon (Tempura Rice Bowl)The kakiage (mixed tempura) looks as if it’s fully immersed in sauce. The sauce is neither too sweet nor too salty. Yet, it is delicious.● Tenbara (Tempura Rice)A dish topped with shrimp and vegetable tempura over rice sprinkled with sesame and salt.● Tencha (Tempura Rice with Broth)A dish with kakiage served over dashi tea. The dashi is delicious, and I always regret not ordering all the rice dishes.● Dried Horse MackerelNext, we moved to the tea room. In a tranquil space, we enjoyed tea and dessert.● Hojicha (Roasted Green Tea)● Dried Persimmon Ice CreamThe wooden single-story building is located next to Asama Shrine. While it exudes a traditional Japanese atmosphere, the interior is modern and stylish. The moment I was guided to the counter, I was captivated by the charming space.The ingredients are truly exceptional. Sasue Maeda Fish Shop supplies the highest quality ingredients to Naruse.I’m not sure where the vegetables are sourced from, but they are unlike anything I’ve eaten before. I am continually impressed by the skill that maximizes the potential of these ultimate ingredients.This is a place I want to keep coming back to for a lifetime.It was a great meal. Less

I was fortunate enough to go after a last-minute cancellation the day before. I had a preconceived notion that a Japanese restaurant of this caliber (including price range) would only have counter seating, so I was surprised when I was led to a table located further down from the underground entrance. While there are places that have a counter but don’t allow you to see the cooking process, I don’t mind the table seating at all. As for the course, each dish was crafted with care. The first dish, featuring crab meat, crab roe, and chopped okra, was impressively high in quality and truly moving. I personally enjoyed the fresh somen noodles, and the grilled eel was cooked to perfection. The final dish, a rice cooked with ingredients, had a delightful texture from the shamo chicken and a refreshing hint of sansho pepper, making it a must-have for seconds. However, overall, I couldn’t shake the impression that it didn’t quite meet my expectations. The number of dishes was on the smaller side, and the time taken to serve them felt excessively long, creating a sense of delay. Personally, I couldn’t understand the appeal of the fried oysters at all. If I were to visit for dinner, my impressions might differ, but I wonder how it would be. Less

On Saturday at 11:30 AM, I arrived with a reservation. At the same time, there were two other guests and one solo diner. We were seated at a table for three, while the others were at the counter. I think the counter can accommodate about four people. Initially, we were shown the eel, and we had a moment for photos. It took about 30 minutes for our food to be served, but the increasing smoke and aroma really heightened our appetite—it was a nice touch! When the smoke got intense, the door opened, but the indoor temperature was comfortable. I ordered a black oolong tea, and since it was all-you-can-drink, I enjoyed several glasses. Additionally, we were served a small appetizer, allowing us to relax while waiting for the eel. The eel itself was crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, with an incredible aroma! It was absolutely delicious. It's within walking distance from Hamamatsu Station, and I highly recommend making a reservation! I definitely want to come back again if I have the chance. Less