Foodle

Recommended bowl: Branch #2

The second outpost of Yoshikawa, one of the premier shops in Saitama. The bowls here are pretty much exactly the same as at the flagship. A deep, delicious niboshi soup blend mixed with a dark tamari-style shoyu. Rice bowls with raw fish are available as a side, along with extra house-made noodles topped with raw fish. Less

Recommended bowl: Simple & balanced

Small shop in a very residential area outside of Kawasaki. A highly ranked shop, serving handcrafted artisanal bowls. The soup is a silky tori paitan mixed with niboshi. The fish element brings on a strong umami finish. Straight thin noodles to go with diced onions and a sizable piece of grilled fatty pork belly chashu. Thick-cut menma. Extra noodles on the side available, and sometimes limited menu offerings. Less

Recommended bowl: Rich chicken

Ramen Jinsei JET is one of the more famous shops in Osaka, open since 2009 by master Yamamoto-san. Well known for serving one of the best bowls of tori paitan around, usually there is a steady stream of customers. The menu is extensive, with various bowls of ramen & tsukemen served with different soups. The ‘tori nikomi soba’ is the most popular— a rich, decadent soup made from chicken carcasses, leg bones, and cartilage, which goes wonderfully with the fresh, handmade noodles. Less

Our dinner at Amarante was a reminder of how deeply satisfying French bistro cooking can be when it is executed with conviction and honesty. Chef Christophe Philippe, known for his no-nonsense style and commitment to superb ingredients, delivered a meal that felt both rustic and refined.

We began with escargots sauvages, bathed in their classic parsley-garlic butter. The snails were tender, earthy, and vibrant, lifted by the herbaceous richness of the sauce and balanced with a fresh salad. A plate of charcuterie de porc Noir Gascon followed, showcasing the depth and nobility of this heritage breed — intensely flavored, with a pleasing balance of fat and lean. The foie gras de canard, smooth and luxurious, arrived with toasted pain de campagne, its richness complemented by the gentle smokiness of the bread. A velouté of lentils and spinach surprised us with its depth: silky and buttery, punctuated by shards of crispy pork belly, turning a humble soup into something decadent.

For the main courses, the sole rôtie au beurre was a highlight — impeccably filleted, delicate and buttery, while the accompanying accras made from the trimmings added a playful, textural contrast. Spinach and panisses rounded the plate with balance and substance. The ris de veau, roasted whole, came with a silky potato purée. It was a masterclass in texture: crisp exterior giving way to tender, creamy sweetbreads.

We ended with a slice of Snidre fermier, a raw ewe’s milk tome, rustic and complex, perfectly closing the meal.

Amarante delivers straightforward food with soul, and our evening proved why it remains a Paris insider’s gem. Less