Mikawa Zezankyo (みかわ 是山居) Tokyo

After 25 years, I returned to this restaurant after visiting the one in Kayabacho. I saw this place featured on a TV show about culinary masters, which inspired my visit. The tempura served here had almost no greasiness, and the cooking was perfect, allowing me to truly appreciate the flavors of each ingredient. While I was impressed by the classic selections, the seasonal dish featuring young sweetfish was also outstanding. My top recommendation is the dish with sea urchin wrapped in shiso leaves. The cooking was exquisite, and I was truly moved by it. It was a great meal. I will definitely come back! Less

Visited in August 2026.I wanted to experience the top-tier tempura, so I made an online reservation in advance. Arriving a bit early was no problem, as there was a waiting room. After waiting in the lounge, I was seated at the counter.I started with a bottle of beer. The summer-only tempura dipping sauce was based on edamame, enhanced with some grated daikon. The menu is printed seasonally, based on handwritten notes, and provided to each guest.The batter was light, allowing me to appreciate the texture, and the difference in temperature between the batter and the ingredients added to the experience.Here are my impressions:▪️ Shrimp: The shrimp body and head were fried separately, each achieving the best finish.▪️ Aori Ika: Crispy on the outside, slightly rare on the inside.▪️ Shrimp and Yuba Soup▪️ Ginkgo Nuts▪️ Shiso Sea Urchin: A luxurious dish with sea urchin sandwiched between shiso leaves.▪️ Young Sweetfish: Two per person, crispy including the innards and head.▪️ Megochi (a type of fish)▪️ Anago (conger eel): Juicy.▪️ Vegetables: Eggplant, asparagus, sweet potato, shiitake mushrooms.▪️ Tempura Rice Bowl: Kakiage Tempura Rice Bowl.▪️ Dessert: The continued oiliness heightened the impression of sweetness.The pace was brisk, and before I knew it, I was enjoying the tempura rice bowl. The plates and sake cups were aesthetically pleasing, making it enjoyable to admire them.It was a great meal. Less

I was told by a gourmet enthusiast that I should definitely visit this place, so I stopped by for lunch. Both the entrance and the interior, as well as the tableware, were lovely. I enjoyed the summer tsuyu course, which included ingredients like kiss fish, shrimp, haze, squid, megochi, shira-uo, anago, ayu, and sea urchin wrapped in perilla leaves, along with maitake mushrooms. It was not greasy at all and truly delicious! On my way out, the chef, Mr. Saotome, kindly saw me off. We had a pleasant chat, and I would love to visit again someday. Less

About a month ago, I made a reservation for a counter seat and visited for lunch on my day off. I arrived a bit early, but they kindly guided me to the waiting area. The waiting area was beautifully decorated with various dishes on display, which was lovely. Since you can make a reservation for just one person, I felt a little nervous about dining alone, but it didn't seem too intimidating.The food was absolutely delicious. This was my first time at a restaurant where I could enjoy a tempura course, and it was quite an eye-opening experience. The flavors of the ingredients were outstanding, and the tempura had that delightful crispy texture. The tempura of young sweetfish was particularly amazing. Each tempura dish was served in pairs, allowing me to enjoy them with both salt and dipping sauce, which was a wonderful touch.Additionally, since it was my first visit, they explained the recommended ways to enjoy each dish, and the service was excellent, making me feel very comfortable.Even as someone who doesn't usually eat tempura, I found this place so wonderful that I would love to return. It was a great meal.◯ OrderTempura Course*This time, I enjoyed it with the summer limited dipping sauce. Less

I had a craving for tempura after a long time, so I decided to visit.Arriving a bit early, I waited in the waiting room on the 3rd floor for a while...Right on time, I headed down to the 1st floor.The staff were already chatting with regular customers, half of whom were from overseas.The first dish was the sweet shrimp.As soon as I took a bite, the aroma of sesame oil filled my nose, and the sweetness of the shrimp spread across my palate... this is what perfected tempura tastes like!After that, vegetables and fish were served in quick succession.I was mesmerized by the skill of the apprentice, and before I knew it, I switched to Japanese sake.The anago (conger eel) was, of course, incredibly delicious!For the final vegetables, I greedily ordered four types.The asparagus and eggplant, among others, were absolutely delightful!I finished with a tempura rice bowl.It was so good that I could have eaten double the amount!I heard they had a summer dipping sauce for a limited time, but personally, I preferred the usual tempura sauce.The tempura itself was outstanding, and the quick replacement of grated daikon was impressive—this is truly a first-class establishment.On my way out, I enjoyed the tempura scraps in my udon.The aroma of sesame oil brought back memories of Mikawa while I was at home... it was a wonderful dish.I will definitely visit again.It was a great meal! Less

I made a reservation at this restaurant because it won the Bronze Award in the Tabelog 2026 Tempura category. I had always wanted to visit an award-winning tempura establishment.As I researched the restaurant before my visit, I learned many interesting things.This place has been contributing to the development of Japanese tempura for over 60 years, and the "Tempura God" is still present in the kitchen.Tempura is about savoring the small moments of time, space, and breath.These are the words of the chef, Saotome.■ Omakase Course◯ Appetizer◯ 2 Shrimp◯ Shrimp Heads◯ Kisu (Japanese whiting)◯ Aori Ika (squid)◯ Clear SoupYuba (tofu skin)Shrimp Paste◯ Myoga (Japanese ginger)◯ Sea Urchin with Shiso◯ Young Sweetfish◯ Megochi (a type of fish)◯ Anago (conger eel)◯ VegetablesShiitakeEggplant◯ FinaleScallop Tempura RicePickles◯ Black Bean Jelly *No photo availableThe shrimp heads were the most delicious I've ever had.The kisu was fluffy, and when I took a bite, steam rose up.The aori ika was sweet and sticky.The clear soup was gentle.The myoga had a sweetness, followed by its fragrant aroma—delicious.The sea urchin with shiso was a first for me. Amazing.The young sweetfish was surprising, with a lovely aroma and a pleasant bitterness.The meguchi had a rich flavor but a refreshing aftertaste.The anago was perfect with salt and summer dipping sauce.The eggplant was piping hot and juicy inside.The shiitake was also incredibly delicious.Tempura is crafted with precision, taking time to perfect each piece.I truly enjoyed that experience.There weren’t any particularly unusual ingredients, but the lightness of the batter and the skillful frying that brings out the flavors of the ingredients made me deeply appreciate tempura.Simply outstanding.The staff frequently changed the tempura paper and provided thorough explanations. The hot towels were also replaced regularly.I left feeling completely satisfied.It was a great meal. Thank you! Less

This is the restaurant of Tetsuya Saotome, known as the "Tempura God." I had always wanted to visit, so I finally made the trip.While the ingredients and frying techniques were impressive, what left the strongest impression on me was the dedication of the craftsmen, who approached each dish with sincerity. The tempura was not flashy; rather, it reflected years of accumulated experience and skill in every plate.The tempura itself was classic, or rather, old-school, with a rich oil and a firm batter.It was a great meal. Less

I was so impressed by the tempura at Arata Mikawa that I decided to visit my master’s restaurant.Mikawa Zezankyo embodies the philosophy of its owner, Tetsuya Saotome, who is referred to as the "Tempura God": "to accept nature as it is and to make the ingredients the stars of the dish." It seems to reflect Zen teachings.Arriving a bit early, I was shown to the waiting room on the third floor, where I could admire many tea utensils. My companion had just started drinking tea and, upon seeing a thin tea utensil, jokingly remarked, "This looks like the container for toothpicks at a soba shop," which made everyone laugh. ...I apologize for that.Soon, I was called back down to the first floor and seated at the counter. (Note that you need to take off and put on your shoes when moving between the third and first floors.)The owner exuded a presence that made me think, "So this is the God they speak of," with a quiet intensity that reminded me of someone who has mastered their craft, though I’ve never been to Sukiyabashi Jiro.Next to the God, an apprentice was carefully preparing young sweetfish, coating them in flour, and delicately arranging the highest quality sea urchin on shiso leaves, which could even be used in sushi shops. Everything was crafted with such care, precision, and beauty.They quickly refilled the grated daikon, and I enjoyed the flavor of the tempura dipping sauce. Drinks were served promptly as well. While savoring the crispy tempura and drinks, I was able to witness the God’s work up close. It was a blissful time, and I felt completely satisfied.The final dish, a tempura rice bowl with only scallops, excited me, but it was a bit too salty for my taste...I believe that experiencing this restaurant today will become a treasured memory. Less

I had the pleasure of visiting Mikawa Zezankyo, where the tempura master, Saotome, skillfully controls the cooking process.As soon as I entered, I was greeted by a bright yet solemn atmosphere. While waiting at the counter, I enjoyed watching Saotome prepare the tempura and the diligent work of his apprentices, which was a delight in itself.The tempura was, of course, delicious—truly exceptional. There’s simply no other way to describe it. The staff who attended to us were equally impressive, providing thoughtful service and attention to detail that made the experience even more enjoyable.I lost track of time; it was an experience that flew by in an instant. At the end, Saotome himself signed the menu for me and even saw me off as I left.I realized that it’s these small gestures that create such profound moments. It was a wonderful and memorable experience.Thank you very much.It was a great meal! Less

2026/6/14 Mikawa Zezankyo, Monzen-Nakacho An exceptionally refined and mature flavor. Delicious.About an 8-minute walk from Monzen-Nakacho Station, this entire building is dedicated to tempura. Upon entering the restaurant, I was guided to the waiting room on the 3rd floor, as everything starts at 12 PM. After taking off my shoes, I was greeted by a row of modern ceramic bowls by contemporary artists. The back area features a tea room, with an oval-shaped design that exudes luxury and a soft atmosphere.At noon, I was led to the counter on the first floor. After removing my shoes, I stepped up to a beautifully maintained lacquered space that feels remarkably clean and calm, despite being in operation for 50 years. I was seated at the end of the counter, where I could see the frying process clearly. The appetizers were already prepared, beautifully plated. The drink menu was simple, offering bottled beer, wine, Japanese sake, and non-alcoholic options, but no shochu. I ordered a beer while watching the course begin. The 80-year-old chef skillfully dropped shrimp into the hot oil. While waiting, I sampled the dipping sauce with grated Japanese radish, which had a slight sweetness but also an exquisite umami flavor.[Omitted]The fried tempura exudes elegance. The batter is slightly moist yet crispy, and the shrimp is packed with concentrated flavor. A gentle sweetness spreads across the palate. The cooking technique is outstanding.The overall structure of the course is intriguing, starting with larger items and finishing with vegetables. Tempura is simple, yet the flavor varies greatly depending on who fries it. The selection of alcoholic beverages is refreshingly straightforward and classical. This time, I had Kaizen sake.I was extremely satisfied with the flavors. I must return to experience the seasonal changes while the 80-year-old chef is still around.Memo:Appetizers 2 Shrimp Shrimp Heads Kisu (Japanese whiting) Squid Clear Soup with Yuba and Shrimp Myoga (Japanese ginger) Shiso Sea Urchin Young Sweetfish with Wasabi Megochi (a type of fish) Anago (conger eel) Asparagus, Shiitake Mushrooms, Sweet Potato, Eggplant Tempura Rice Bowl or Tempura Tea. Less

Visit Date: June 27 (Saturday) from 12:00 to 13:45.Amidst the enticing aroma of fried shrimp, I witnessed the incredible skills of the chef, Saotome-san. His work was speedy, efficient, and precise. While I couldn't help but compare this experience to my recent visits to "Arata Mikawa" and "Keyakizaka," I discovered that Mikawa Zezankyo serves an astonishing amount of tempura scraps during frying! But enough of that trivial introduction. (laughs)The seasonal ingredients included sweet and tender squid, perfectly fried myoga (Japanese ginger) that was hot and juicy, and young sweetfish served with wasabi and grated daikon. For my favorite vegetable tempura, I chose fluffy sweet potato and flavorful shiitake mushrooms.Interestingly, it seems there is a specific order for frying the vegetables. I observed that the chef first added sweet potatoes, followed by eggplant, asparagus, and shishito peppers, then removed the sweet potatoes before frying the shiitake mushrooms. I was impressed by how he catered to the unique characteristics of each ingredient. After finishing with tempura and black soybean jelly, I thoroughly enjoyed my meal today. Thank you for the wonderful experience! Less

Thank you for your hard work, everyone! (￣^￣)ゞI’ve also started a blog!! Please check it out!!https://nakazaki-kenji.jp/Today, I visited "Mikawa Zezankyo" in Monzen-Nakacho!!I was truly impressed by the tempura prepared by Mr. Saotome during my first visit!!However, I was a bit nervous on my first visit and couldn’t fully focus on the flavors, so I immediately made a reservation for my next visit once I got home. d(^_^o)Let me briefly introduce the restaurant. _φ(･_･**Mr. Tetsuya Saotome's Background**Born in Tochigi Prefecture in 1946.In his elementary school essay, he wrote that he wanted to become a sushi chef.Before going for an interview at a sushi restaurant after graduating from junior high, he was treated to tempura at a tempura restaurant, where he was suggested, "How about working at a tempura shop?"Feeling obliged after being treated to a meal, he couldn’t refuse and entered the world of tempura.Just two days after graduating from junior high, he was washing dishes at the long-established "Tensho" in Ueno.He dedicated 15 years to rigorous training and became independent at the age of 29.His restaurant quickly gained a reputation, but even after many years, he continues to strive for improvement, saying, "I want to do even better work in ten years."In 2009, he opened the current restaurant "Mikawa Zezankyo," adorned with works from various artists.**Restaurant Introduction**Since starting his training at the age of 15, he has never taken a day off until this year, when he reached his 70s.Mr. Tetsuya Saotome casually states this.He is a legendary craftsman who has greatly influenced the maturation of tempura as a culinary culture.Even today, this master continues to stand in the kitchen.However, his tempura is not solely supported by years of intuition.For example, with shrimp, he ensures the center temperature is between 45-47 degrees Celsius, where the human palate perceives sweetness best.For vegetables, he identifies those that enhance texture and those that convert starch into sugar, discerning the unique qualities of each ingredient.Every action he takes is based on deep knowledge, which clearly translates into deliciousness.Experience the skills of one of the finest craftsmen of our time with your own eyes and taste.The name "Zezankyo" embodies the classical Chinese philosophy of reclusion and the aesthetic consciousness of "mountain dwelling," making it a place to experience the worldview of Tetsuya Saotome, rather than just a high-end tempura restaurant.Currently, reservations can be made through TableCheck, and they open reservations for one month ahead every day at midnight, making it relatively easy to secure a spot. d(^_^o)https://www.tablecheck.com/ja/shops/mikawa-zezankyo/reserveThe restaurant of Mr. Saotome's disciples, who have received full training from him, is also popular!!Please refer to the blog of Ikko, a businessman and YouTuber who has been very helpful to me.https://ikkos-films.com/mikawa-zezankyo-keifu-deshi/I got off at Monzen-Nakacho Station on the Toei Oedo Line and headed to the restaurant.It takes about 10 minutes to walk from Exit 6 to the restaurant.I arrived a bit early, but the staff kindly let me in.As always, the service was incredibly polite and attentive, making me feel comfortable. d(^_^o)First, I was taken to the waiting room on the third floor.The room was filled with various beautiful tea bowls and hanging scrolls, all of which were stunning to behold!!There was even a tea room in the back, complete with a helmet display (　ﾟдﾟ)Inside, there was a tea bowl made by Mr. Saotome himself (　ﾟдﾟ)When the time came, I was guided to the first floor.The interior is compact, with only 9 counter seats, and above is a ventilation fan shaped like Mr. Saotome's trademark Borsalino hat.It reportedly cost JPY 10 million (　ﾟдﾟ)I ordered a beer as my first drink. d(^_^o)After that, I enjoyed some Japanese sake!!The sake vessels were incredibly beautiful, even to an amateur's eye (　ﾟдﾟ)Now, let the course from the god of tempura begin!!I was really looking forward to it today!!**Appetizer**- Simmered anago (conger eel) jelly, edamame, and tofu.- The edamame had a great aroma and umami, and the tofu was rich in flavor.- The anago was intensely flavorful and delicious.- All of them were of high quality, making the beer go down smoothly right from the start. ( ◠‿◠ )**Kuruma Ebi (Sweet Shrimp)**- First, I enjoyed it with salt.- As always, it was astonishing!!- The batter was crispy and light, while the shrimp was cooked rare, sweet like amaebi (sweet shrimp), and simply the best!!- The batter was fluffy and crispy!!- It melted in my mouth like light snow!!- Finally, the aroma of sesame oil wafted in, making it absolutely perfect!!- Next, I had it with tempura dipping sauce.- This time, it was hot and plump, and dipping it in the sauce enhanced the flavor even more!!- Both ways were delicious!!- Lastly, I had two heads.- These were fried slowly and looked incredibly appetizing!!- They were crispy and crunchy, packed with flavor and a delightful aroma!!- While salt was good, the tempura dipping sauce paired perfectly. (//∇//)**Kisu (Whiting)**- It looked delicious just by appearance!!- Eating it with salt, the skin was fragrant, and the flesh was hot and fluffy—so good!!- This was the first time I felt the flavor of kisu so strongly in tempura. (　ﾟдﾟ)**Aori Ika (Bigfin Reef Squid)**- It was thick!! This was lightly fried!!- First, I had it with salt, and it was half-cooked and incredibly sweet!!- Next, I had it with tempura dipping sauce, which enhanced the flavor even more!!**Osuimono (Clear Soup)**- This was a clear soup with yuba (tofu skin) and shrimp balls.- The broth was amazing!! The aroma and umami of the bonito broth were mesmerizing!!- The yuba was roasted on the surface, making it fragrant and creamy!!- The shrimp was also creamy and packed with flavor—simply the best!!**Myoga (Japanese Ginger)**- It was carefully fried and held together with a toothpick.- This was hot and bursting with aroma and sweetness!!- I’ve never felt such sweetness from myoga before!!- I couldn’t stop drinking beer after this. （＾Ｏ＾☆♪**Uni (Sea Urchin)**- This was uni wrapped in shiso (perilla leaf).- The shiso was crispy, and the uni was hot, moist, and sweet!!- I was surprised by the difference in texture between the shiso and uni!!**Chia-yu (Young Sweetfish)**- I was able to enjoy young sweetfish today as well!!- It looked so beautiful that it felt a shame to eat it!!- The moment I bit into it, the aroma filled my mouth!!- The slight bitterness of the liver and the sweetness of the flesh were perfect!!- When enjoyed with a tangy vinegar sauce, it was refreshing, and the aroma of the shiso leaf paired perfectly with the sweetfish. (//∇//)**Megochi (Sandfish)**- I also got to enjoy meguchi!!- This was surprising!!- Eating it with salt, it was hot, creamy, and packed with flavor!!- I preferred this over kisu. (^_−)−☆Here, they introduced the vegetables.Today’s selection included asparagus, shiitake mushrooms, eggplant, sweet potato, and shishito peppers.I could choose two from these, so I went with asparagus and shishito peppers this time.**Anago (Conger Eel)**- Now, the anago is here!!- Mr. Saotome split it right in front of me, and just the sound made me hungrier!!- First, I had the tail part with salt, and wow!! The batter was crispy and light, while the anago was creamy and delicious!!- There was no fishy smell, just pure umami filling my mouth!! Is this for real!? (　ﾟдﾟ)- I had the body part with tempura dipping sauce, and it was rich, hot, and creamy—simply the best!! (//∇//)- Seriously, is the oil not heavy at all!? - It felt so light, and I could still eat more. （＾Ｏ＾☆♪**Asparagus**- Wow!! It was hot, creamy, and delicious!!- The aroma and sweetness of the asparagus were irresistible. (//∇//)**Shishito Peppers**- The batter was crispy, and the shishito peppers were hot and creamy!!- The aroma and mild bitterness of the shishito were delightful. （＾Ｏ＾☆♪**Tempura Rice Bowl**- For the meal, I could choose between a tempura rice bowl or tempura tea, so I opted for tempura tea this time.- First, the aroma was wonderful!!- Just like the clear soup, the broth was delicious!!- Breaking apart the hot kakiage (mixed tempura) while enjoying it was so good!!- The texture and sweetness of the kobashira (small shrimp) were the best. (^_−)−☆- The pickles included cucumber, turnip, and aged pickles, all of which were delicious and truly well-prepared!!**Dessert**- Finally, I had black bean jelly.- The black beans were rich in flavor and delicious!!- The jelly had a refreshing sweetness that left my stomach feeling light. ( ◠‿◠ )Every tempura dish showcased the ingredients' flavors, and I was deeply moved!!While my disciple's tempura is delicious, Mr. Saotome's tempura was even better. (^_−)−☆Above all, I was surprised by how light the batter was. (　ﾟдﾟ)After the meal, I didn’t feel heavy at all; in fact, I felt completely fine!!Even though they used sesame oil generously, it was a mysterious experience. (　ﾟдﾟ)Here’s what I enjoyed today:1. Kuruma Ebi①2. Kuruma Ebi②3. Kuruma Ebi Head4. Kisu5. Aori Ika①6. Aori Ika②7. Yuba and Shrimp Ball Clear Soup8. Myoga9. Uni Wrapped in Shiso10. Chia-yu①11. Chia-yu②12. Megochi13. Anago14. Asparagus15. Shishito Peppers16. Tempura Tea17. Black Bean JellyI was particularly impressed by the kuruma ebi and anago!!The kuruma ebi was half-cooked inside and incredibly sweet,with the batter melting in my mouth, allowing me to fully enjoy the pure aroma and umami of the shrimp!!It was so light, and the gentle aroma of sesame oil was surprising right from the start. (　ﾟдﾟ)And the anago was incredible!!The batter was crispy and light, melting in my mouth as well.The pure umami and aroma of the anago filled my mouth, making it the best!!There was absolutely no fishy smell, and I could fully enjoy the goodness of each part by having the tail with salt and the body with tempura dipping sauce. （＾Ｏ＾☆♪The vegetables were amazing too!!Myoga, asparagus, and shishito peppers had their aromas and umami beautifully brought out, making them the best. (//∇//)The final tempura tea had a rich broth, and inside the fluffy batter was a generous amount of kobashira, providing the perfect texture and sweetness to conclude the meal. （＾Ｏ＾☆♪Above all, the teacups, sake vessels, plates, chairs, garden, and everything in the restaurant were filled with artistry,making it feel like a single art museum!!The staff's attentiveness was meticulous, frequently replacing the paper for the tempura, refilling drinks, and changing the wet towels, creating a very comfortable atmosphere!!Thank you, Mr. Saotome and the staff, for today!!I will make another reservation and visit again. (^_−)−☆ Less