Rebekah Wilson-Lye

Part I: Tempura Matsu is a cozy family-run restaurant near the banks of the Katsura River, in Arashiyama, Kyoto 🍁🍂. While I’ve been fortunate to visit this little gem many times over the past decade, this was the first time I took photos of my entire course… in case you haven’t noticed I’m fairly nonchalant about personal SNS content. 🤭

Don’t let the name fool you, while tempura is served during the course, the style of cuisine would best be decided as kappo/kaiseki-ryori, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and Kansai produce. As it was late Autumn, we opted for the most luxe course, in which matsuba-gani (snow crab), amadai and black truffle was prominently featured. 🦀🐟🍄

FYI, despite its proximity to Matsunoo Taisha Shrine, which is famous for its deep connections to the nation’s sake brewing and fermentation industries, the sake and wine list is VERY limited, so I’d advise requesting if BYO is possible when making a booking. 🍶🥂🍷

See first half of the menu and descriptions below 👇🏻

とうもろこしのスープ甘鯛
Corn soup

甘鯛の鱗揚げ、卵黄身酢ソース、黒トリュフ乗せて
Amadai uroko-age (outside of Kyoto it’s called 松笠揚げ/matsusaka-age - a technique of deep-frying sea bream so the scales resemble a ‘pine cone”), sauce of egg yolk, rice vinegar and dashi , black truffle

海老芋天ぷら、サッポロ　黒ラベル生ビール
Ebi-imo (shrimp shaped taro tempura

烏賊のお造り
Ika (squid) sashimi

河豚のお造り
Fugu (pufferfish)) sashimi

鰤の炙り、ポン酢ジュレ、からし
Yellowtail seared over bincho-tan, ponzu gelée, karashi mustard

鰆のお椀
Sawara (Spanish mackerel) in dashi broth.

炭火焼き松葉蟹の握り (後の足)
Charcoal grilled matsuba-gani nigiri (back leg meat)

炭火焼き松葉蟹の握り (前の足)
Charcoal grilled matsuba-gani nigiri (front leg meat)

本鮪の大トロ着けの握り
Hon-maguro ōtoro tsuke nigiri

#tempuramatsu #天ぷら松 #1starMichelin #kyoto Less

間人蟹 🦀
Taiza-gani @[instagram] Higashiyama Ogata. 🍁
In Japan, not all zuwaigani (snow crab) are created equal. The green tags indicate that these beauties are Taiza-gani, the highest grade and most expensive snow crab brand, which are named after the port, Taizo Gyokō, Kyoto, where they are landed. The season starts on November 6th, and only five boats are licensed to catch snow crab under the Taiza brand. As the fishing grounds are close to port, the crabs are delivered live to restaurants (like Ogata) on the same day they are caught.

#higashiyamaogata #東山緒方 #kaisekiryori #懐石料理 #kyoto #snowcrab #ズワイガニ #taizagani #間人蟹 Less

Although branches of famous restaurants tend to be underwhelming, at Higashiyama Ogata you can enjoy the tranquil elegance, refined cuisine and graceful service that one associates with Kyoto’s renowned 2 star Michelin kaiseki ryori-ya Ogata… without all the hoopla of securing a reservation. 🤓

Our visit coincided with the snow crab season, so we were fortunate to experience the super luxe Taiza-gani course which starts after Nov. 6th each year. 🦀
Full menu and descriptions below: 👇🏻

お椀　小蕪 🥣
Ko-kabu - small turnip in dashi with white miso and yuzu sauce

先付　間人コッペ蟹、お酢ジュレ、もずく
Taiza Koppe-gani (female snow crabs from Taiza), rice vinegar and dashi gelée,
mozuku (Okinawan seaweed) 🦀

お造り　兵庫県明石産　平目、緒方式紅葉
Hirame sashimi, landed in Akashi, Hyogo, with an arrangement of autumn leaves 🍁

お造り　和歌山県串本　縞鯵、からし
Shima-aji sashimi, landed in Kushimoto, Wakayama, with karashi 🐟

揚げ物　岩手県産　河豚の白子の唐揚げ、山椒の実の醤油漬け
Iwate landed, fugu shirako karaage, with shoyu marinated sansho 🐡

蟹の登場・七輪と紀州備長炭で焼いた間人蟹
Taiza-gani are presented to guests, before being prepared and grilled on a shichirin over Kishū binchō-tan 🔥

焼き物　間人蟹の胴
Grilled Taiza-gani・dō (section cut from the body/base of the leg) 🦀

十四代 吟撰 生詰
Juyondai Ginsen Namazume🍶

焼き物　間人蟹の脚 (後足)
Grilled Taiza-gani・ashi (middle section of a back leg) 🦀

爪酒　(焼いたラッキョ入り）
Tsumezake - crab claw in warm sake (made with grilled rakkyo-joint section of a leg) 🦀

焼き物　間人蟹の脚 (前足)、スダチ
Grilled Taiza-gani・ashi (middle section of a front leg), sudachi 🦀

焼き物　間人蟹の爪 (親爪)
Grilled Taiza-gani・tsume (front claw) 🦀

富田林の海老芋
Tondabayashi ebi-imo. Ebi-imo cultivated in Tondabayashi, Osaka is renowned for having a soft yet sticky texture and smooth taste. In season between November and January, it is highly coveted among the top kaiseki restaurants in Kansai. 🥔

十四代 別撰諸白 白鶴錦 生詰
Juyondai Bessen Morohaku, Hakutsuru Rice, Namazume

蟹味噌と蟹ご飯
Kani-miso and crab meat rice 🍚 🦀

九条ねぎうどん
Kujo negi (Kyoto varietal of Japanese green onion) udon 🍜 🌱

渋皮栗のくず焼きとお抹茶
Grilled shibukawa kuri and kuzu (Japanese arrowroot), served with matcha. 🍵🌰

#higashiyamaogata #東山緒方 #kaisekiryori #懐石料理 #kyoto #snowcrab #ズワイガニ #taizagani #間人蟹 #juyondai #十四代 Less

Back down memory lane… L’Effervescence is my most beloved dining experience🤍. Over the past decade I have enjoyed so many transportive, simply delicious meals within its dining room, and delighted in witnessing both Namae-san and the restaurant’s journey of creation and evolution. Every experience has been flawless yet never stilted, perfectly executed yet never ‘over done’, professional yet warm and unpretentious. L’Effervescence is also where my eyes were first opened to the infinite potential of pairing sake with ‘haute cuisine’— an education I will always be truly grateful for. 🙏🏻 As such, I habitually request the sake pairing in order to enjoy the unique synergy that each varietal has with Namae-san’s cuisine. The standout pairing on this occasion was the lobster x warmed Kuheiji Hi no Tsuki Omachi. Sublime! 🙌🏻🍶👏🏻

Caviar, abalone, horsehair crab, sasanishiki risotto 🦀 🍚

Pairing: Champagne Larmandier Bernier Latitude Extra-Brut NV

Potato focaccia, sourdough 🥖 🍞

Artisan vegetables (on this occasion 42 seasonal vegetables, herbs and fruit) 🥗 👩🏻‍🌾

Pairing: Aramasa X-type (Aramasa Shuzō • Akita)

Tokyo turnip, complexity and simplicity 🤍

Pairing: Yoshidagura u Hyakumangoku no Shiro (Yoshida Shuzōten • Ishikawa)

Amadai gently pouched in whey, edamame, myoga, ginger, shiso flower 🐟🌸

Pairing: Masuizumi Do You Know 土遊野 (Masuda Shuzōten • Toyama)

Lobster, classic red wine sauce, maitake mushrooms, abalone mushrooms 🦞🍷🍄

Pairing: Kuheiji Hi to Tsuki Omachi — warmed to 45°C (Banjo Jōzō • Nagoya)

Scallop ravioli with chestnut soup 🌰

Pairing: Aramasa Lapis Lazuli 2021 — the last vintage (Aramasa Shuzō • Akita)

#leffervescence #3starmichelin #tokyo #sakepairing #新政 #aramasa #吉田蔵u#yoshidagurau #満寿泉 #masuizumi #醸し人九平次 #kamoshibitokuheiji @leffervescence

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I don’t have a sweet tooth, except —of course—when dining at L’Effervescence, because the sake pairings rock🍶⚡️😋! The meditative matcha service and yummy glass of ‘World Peace’ are also a highlight 🍵🥛. Here are some memories from the dessert & final courses. 👇🏻

Artisan Japanese cheese (and Norwegian brunost—‘brown cheese’) 🧀 🍯

Pairing: Niida Honke Kijoshu (Niida Honke • Fukushima)

Muscat, ginger, yuzu 🍇🍋🫚

Pairing: Ippakusuiei Moving Saturday Kijoshu (Fukurokuju Brewery • Akita)

Rhubarb choux, peanut financier, kuromoji mochi 🥜 🥠

Rosemary cream sando, Wade mandarin crystal, chocolate ginger, matcha, World Peace ☮️ 🕊️✌🏻

#leffervescence #3starmichelin #tokyo #sakepairing #仁井田本家 #niidahonke #一白水成 #ippakusuisei @leffervescence

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Fast forward to Dec 2023, when Ginza Komon was the venue of choice for a reunion with my Hong Kong ‘family’🥰. We paired our matsubagani & black truffle course with some Juyondai classics (naturally 😉) and the newly released Jikon Kioke (cedar tanked brewed) Kimoto Tojo Akitsu Yamada Nishiki🤩🍶. A deliciously decadent way to kick off the festive season🦀🎄! As always, my sincere thanks to chef 浅倉鼓太郎 and Keiko Asakura for their warm hospitality and generous service🙏🏻.

#銀座鼓門 #ginzakomon #matsubagani #juyondai #十四代 #而今 #jikon Less

The long overdue catch up on a year of dining experiences continues with the stunning Matsubagani course at Ginza Komon—the kaiseki evolution of the much loved, and now relocated, kappo/izakaya Kirakutei. 🥰🦀❤️🍶

Part 1 | Full menu & sake list below:👇🏻

白子茶碗蒸し 白トリュフ乗せて
Shirako chawan-mushi with white truffles 🍄

香箱蟹からの甲羅酒
Koubako seko-gani (female zuwai-gani/snow crab) and kourazake 🦀🍶
The red ovaries are called “uchiko”, the dark-coloured eggs are called “sotoko”. After eating 95%, you pour kourazake into the shell.
Kourazake is warm sake (40ºC) infused with the crab’s claw/shell, which is poured into the shell to release more aroma and to wash down the last remnants of crab meat, kani-miso and eggs.

十四代 本丸 (山形県 • Yamagata)
Juyondai Honmaru 💛

白いくら カルボナーラ素麺
White ikura, chilled ’carbonara’ 🍝

松葉蟹のしんじょと聖護院蕪のお椀
Matsuba-gani shinjo and shogoin turnip 🦀

兵庫県赤穂市坂越産　赤穂クリスタルの牡蠣 梨のお酢�Sakoshi Bay, Ako, Hyogo, harvested “Ako Crystal” Pacific oyster, with a pear, vinegar, dashi & shoga ‘mignonette’ 🦪

伯楽星　特別純米 (宮城県 • Miyagi)
Hakurakusei Tokubetsu Junmai 💙

伊勢海老と雲丹と菊
Ise-ebi, bafun uni, and chrysanthemum petal 🦐

島根県産　メジマグロ　辛み大根　土佐酢と山葵
Shimane landed meji maguro, karami daikon (extra spicy daikon), Tosasu and wasabi 🎣

春霞 緑ラベル 純米吟醸 美郷錦仕込み (秋田県 • Akita)
Harukasumi Midori Label Junmai Ginjō made with locally grown Misato Nishiki 💚

のどぐろ飯蒸しと銀杏とcaviar
Nodoguro iimushi with ginko, topped with caviar 🐟

シャトーブリアンカツサンド
Chateaubriand katsu-sando 🥪

新政 X-Type (秋田県 • Akita)
Aramasa X-Type 🤍

すっぽん清湯ラーメン
Suppon (turtle) chintan ramen 🍜

蟹カレー
Kani curry 🍛

クリームプリンとミニマルさんのコラボとして作ったチョコレート
Cream pudding with Minimal x Komon collaboration chocolate 🍫

#銀座鼓門 #ginzakomon #matsubagani

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Ginza Komon Matsuba-gani Course Part II: The showstopper. 🥰❤️

兵庫県柴山港産　松葉蟹
Shibarayama Port, Hyogo, landed Matsuba-gani (male snow crab) 🦀

釜揚げ蟹汁で松葉蟹しゃぶしゃぶ
Matsubagani shabu-shabu, kamaage kani dashi, served with kani-miso. 🦀

#銀座鼓門 #ginzakomon #matsubagani

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As always, the Zén team were flawless in their narrative driven presentation of each dish—drawing your attention to the seasonal ingredients, their origin and preparation🙌🏻. Loved the regular appearance of sake varietals which were used to great effect in the pairing👏🏻.

Notable pairing: Akamutsu, Roasted Cauliflower Dashi, Zén Reserve Caviar x Shichihonyari Kokoku Yamahai 2018 🍶🐟

#zensingapore #michelin3stars #singapore Less