Higashiyama Ogata (東山 緒方) Kyoto

in kyoto, japan (jan’24)

my first visit to the higashiyama branch (second shop) of ogata - one of my favourite shops thus far in kyoto. this visit was end of january, so the tail end of kani season with influences of fugu and shirako season and a peek into spring.

my visit with ogata san himself present and cooking set the standards very high (he’s in this shop on some occasional sundays), but still seemed a bit shy from the honten. the course was definitely smaller than i remembered, ingredients though good seemed a bit lacking especially considering the sky rocketing price-tag. nonetheless, the atmosphere here is much more ambient and spacious, facing the gorgeous back garden.

really wow-ed by the fresh ise-ebi and its miso, the back of the tuna cut was also so so good. really enjoyed the various fugu dishes also, from the fugu sashimi in a shirako ponzu sauce with a dash of shijimi, to the fugu karaage freshly brought out by the kitchen. as we were getting into the groove of the meal, the shime courses were already served. today’s courses were a deep fried oyster one with sansho, gyudon which was a bit salty for my liking and a karami daikon with homemade udon. ended with a lovely yurine and red bean filling wagashi and matcha. will be back to the honten for another season, but my favourite is still spring here.

おまかせコース (¥60,000)
うずみ豆腐uzumi tofu
マグロの背側 ise ebi, shima maguro
カラスミの餅karasumi mochi
鱈白子の揚げtara shirako age
河豚と白子ポン酢fugu with shirako
河豚唐揚げfugu karage
丸大根と蕪maru daikon, kabura

牡蠣ご飯kaki gohan
牛丼gyudon
辛味大根うどんkarami daikon udon

ゆりねあんこ和菓子yurine anko wagashi
-
would revisit: honten only
reservations: yes
price range pp: ¥60,000-¥100,000
-
📍東山緒方
location: 1/f 91-5 okazaki enshouji-cho, kyoto
-
#2feastingpigs_kyoto
#2feastingpigs_japan Less

Although branches of famous restaurants tend to be underwhelming, at Higashiyama Ogata you can enjoy the tranquil elegance, refined cuisine and graceful service that one associates with Kyoto’s renowned 2 star Michelin kaiseki ryori-ya Ogata… without all the hoopla of securing a reservation. 🤓

Our visit coincided with the snow crab season, so we were fortunate to experience the super luxe Taiza-gani course which starts after Nov. 6th each year. 🦀
Full menu and descriptions below: 👇🏻

お椀　小蕪 🥣
Ko-kabu - small turnip in dashi with white miso and yuzu sauce

先付　間人コッペ蟹、お酢ジュレ、もずく
Taiza Koppe-gani (female snow crabs from Taiza), rice vinegar and dashi gelée,
mozuku (Okinawan seaweed) 🦀

お造り　兵庫県明石産　平目、緒方式紅葉
Hirame sashimi, landed in Akashi, Hyogo, with an arrangement of autumn leaves 🍁

お造り　和歌山県串本　縞鯵、からし
Shima-aji sashimi, landed in Kushimoto, Wakayama, with karashi 🐟

揚げ物　岩手県産　河豚の白子の唐揚げ、山椒の実の醤油漬け
Iwate landed, fugu shirako karaage, with shoyu marinated sansho 🐡

蟹の登場・七輪と紀州備長炭で焼いた間人蟹
Taiza-gani are presented to guests, before being prepared and grilled on a shichirin over Kishū binchō-tan 🔥

焼き物　間人蟹の胴
Grilled Taiza-gani・dō (section cut from the body/base of the leg) 🦀

十四代 吟撰 生詰
Juyondai Ginsen Namazume🍶

焼き物　間人蟹の脚 (後足)
Grilled Taiza-gani・ashi (middle section of a back leg) 🦀

爪酒　(焼いたラッキョ入り）
Tsumezake - crab claw in warm sake (made with grilled rakkyo-joint section of a leg) 🦀

焼き物　間人蟹の脚 (前足)、スダチ
Grilled Taiza-gani・ashi (middle section of a front leg), sudachi 🦀

焼き物　間人蟹の爪 (親爪)
Grilled Taiza-gani・tsume (front claw) 🦀

富田林の海老芋
Tondabayashi ebi-imo. Ebi-imo cultivated in Tondabayashi, Osaka is renowned for having a soft yet sticky texture and smooth taste. In season between November and January, it is highly coveted among the top kaiseki restaurants in Kansai. 🥔

十四代 別撰諸白 白鶴錦 生詰
Juyondai Bessen Morohaku, Hakutsuru Rice, Namazume

蟹味噌と蟹ご飯
Kani-miso and crab meat rice 🍚 🦀

九条ねぎうどん
Kujo negi (Kyoto varietal of Japanese green onion) udon 🍜 🌱

渋皮栗のくず焼きとお抹茶
Grilled shibukawa kuri and kuzu (Japanese arrowroot), served with matcha. 🍵🌰

#higashiyamaogata #東山緒方 #kaisekiryori #懐石料理 #kyoto #snowcrab #ズワイガニ #taizagani #間人蟹 #juyondai #十四代 Less

間人蟹 🦀
Taiza-gani @[instagram] Higashiyama Ogata. 🍁
In Japan, not all zuwaigani (snow crab) are created equal. The green tags indicate that these beauties are Taiza-gani, the highest grade and most expensive snow crab brand, which are named after the port, Taizo Gyokō, Kyoto, where they are landed. The season starts on November 6th, and only five boats are licensed to catch snow crab under the Taiza brand. As the fishing grounds are close to port, the crabs are delivered live to restaurants (like Ogata) on the same day they are caught.

#higashiyamaogata #東山緒方 #kaisekiryori #懐石料理 #kyoto #snowcrab #ズワイガニ #taizagani #間人蟹 Less