Foodle

Maybe it's a coincidence, but back in the fall nearly all of the top sushiya I've posted the past few weeks served kujira either as an appetizer, or sushi, and it was always nitani kujira. About 10 years ago, many restaurants at this level served more-prized nagasu kujira, but it seems that particular species has become exceedingly rare. The standard preparation is to serve it with a dab of grated chive or shoga to contrast the rich fat and any metallic flavors. Namba-san almost always serves it, and it is of the highest quality you can find in a sushiya. Whatever your personal thoughts might be in this controversial appetizer, it is truly luxurious and delicious. Less

Namba-san seems to be particularly proud of his awabi dashi, which is thickened into a sauce with kuzu starch. It is rich and velvety with strong seafood flavor. Almost like a light version of the dark sauce used to marinate Cantonese-style abalone. This dish is sometimes followed with kimo sauce and shari, but in this case the rice went right into the thickened dashi with some uni, doubling the decadence. Less

Namba-san's sushi is definitely small, and as a result the standard course includes over 15 sushi (actually, 18 on my last few visits), compared to many other sushiya that might serve 10-12 before offering add-ons. While diners are presented with the day's nigiri menu at the start of the meal, I've also noticed recently that at least one and sometime two "bonus" nigiri seem to be served. It's really nice to experience such variety in flavors without getting overly full, and the small and slightly round sushi shape is almost jewel-like. Less

Another grid from a visit to Namba - this was from a course in the back room, if you notice the different lighting and plates. I love the variety in the course here, but especially the fact that at least 3 hikiarimono are served (last November, it was 6!), each with their own beautiful slicing techniques.
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The back counter is also a testament to Namba-san's skill at pacing. Unlike other shops that serve a private counter, he staggers the seating timing in that room so that his second-in-command (who actually is the head chef at the Yotsuya Namba location) can serve the tsumami and so that Namba-san can appear to serve the nigiri course. This means timing must always be perfect, and it provides a much better experience to all diners since the head chef isn't working back and forth between two rooms at the same time. Less

Obana-san was one of the earliest supporters of Yamayuki as a line-caught tuna wholesaler and thus (supposedly) has preferred access for maguro. He usually favors smaller-size tuna and only ages a couple of days at most. On all of my visits, cuts from two different fish, usually from different landing points have been served. The only change I've noticed over the years is that the "chu-maki" made from the tender tuna scrapings appears now as an appetizer rather than a finale. Less