Foodle

Going live on our website in just a few minutes: fresh reviews of four top Dallas restaurants. Featuring such questions as: why is Billy Can Can so good these days? (It's modernizing Southwestern cuisine with more freshness and a reflection of the diversity of today's Texas.) Did Tei-An always have a tomahawk steak and a huge jug of truffle oil? (Seasonally yes, and no but they did pour some.) Is Shoyo better for first-time omakase goers or more experienced Japanese food lovers? (It's ideal for first-timers.) Pictured: shrimp and cucumber aguachile at Billy Can Can, served with potato chips to remind you it's a saloon. Less

One of the naughtier things I learned a decade ago, in London, was to whisper “carte blanche” to a chef. I had just interviewed Mikael Jonsson and hadn’t been to his Michelin-starred Hedone. So I called, emboldened glutton I was: Would Jonsson cook his heart’s desire, price no object? “Come tonight,” he replied. “Alone.”

Three trains later, having crossed from Zone 3 East to Zone 3 West, I found one empty seat and an expressionless Jonsson pulling out a barely skinned hen, its neck as long as a baby’s forearm. “Capon de Bresse,” he announced proudly. His expression shifted when he asked if I’d like black truffles with the capon, and I declined (price no longer an object). But the bird needed no accoutrements. It was glorious, the purest distillation of a prized bird: so silky that it surrendered under a fish knife.

It also added £100 to a £240 menu.

I spent the weeks after being haunted by this bird, as expensive chickens are entitled to do, and I’ve found myself chasing its likeness ever since. Lately, I’m happy to report that at @torikaze.hk, the chicken is alive and well. Poultry purists may argue that this Hong Kong outpost of Tokyo’s famed Torishiki doesn’t use the breed befitting its progenitor, but local three-yellow birds have their virtues, especially with Kishu charcoal and Ryo Matsui, Ikegawa’s protégé, at the grill. The best thing besides savoring the 11-ish skewers — plus the small plates, donabe and dessert — is watching the itamae turn skewers singed and coaxed by charcoal behind three panes of glass, under a beast of a range hood that erases any whiff of gastronomic spelunking on a Monday night, as I did in March, on the 45th floor of an office building in Central.

At times the fattiness gets out of hand, as it did with a few offal pieces. But in almost every regard, the handsome char on the oyster, gizzard, heart, and inner thigh — highlights of the gently-priced $780 HKD omakase — made me swoon, as did the juices gathering beneath blistered skins. The sweet potato and golden beetroot sing, too.

Not every expensive memory deserves a sequel, but this one did. Thank you, @theforksandspoons852 for paving the way.

📍Torikaze
🍽️ Mar ‘26 Less

Tonkatsu and I have a troubled history. Over a decade ago, I lived near a gleaming chain known for affordable, heaping bowls of rice crowned with pork that seemed radioactively juiced to oblivion, lacquered in a sticky brown syrup with the medicinal insistence of cough syrup. “Katsu” there was shorthand for leathery pork bound to what looked, and ate, like indestructible sandpaper, with an industrial-grade adhesive completing this unholy trinity. I remember these bowls fondly because they justified the long periods between food adventures, when I made it my mission to conquer London’s Michelin guide as affordably as possible (if only).

This memory largely kept me away from tonkatsu for years. Yes I had serviceable versions, but none that made me cross town. Not until my recent to Tokyo, when I finally understood what tonkatsu could be.

@narikura_minamiasagaya comes easily to mind not only because of its Tabelog eminence, but because the chef Seizo Mitani-san raises fried pork cutlet to the register of the most exacting tempura counters in the region.

Though the batter is almost beside the point — the prized breeds and different loin cuts are the focus — Mitani’s meticulous low-temperature frying yields an ultra-light, ultra-crisp crust around uniformly pink, juicy pork. The first bite barely behaves like fried food at all because the crust yields, then the pork floods in, warm and clean and improbably gentle. Any order permutation will work here. The fillets are tender, delivering equal pleasures alongside his signatures: a fatty-enough ribeye and his “Chateaubriand,” which needs nothing more than a dab of salt and sesame oil.

I’ll return to Narikura should reservations re-materialize. Otherwise, @tonkatsukeita is a worthy alternative, and a more accessible one. It offers a near-elemental showcase of Rokubaku Kurobuta pork, which the owner Keita Aoki-san sources directly from his family farm. The coating on this one is more assertively bound, but the pure, medium-rare cook is a revelation, as is that tall cabbage salad.

🙏 TK and Joe for the recommendations.

📍Tonkatsu Narikura
📍Tonkatsu Keita
🍽️ Feb ’26 Less

The @newsdayfeedme team just put out our best dishes we ate this April. I wrote about a stellar breakfast sandwich, and this fish …

The fish pollichathu was the highlight of a recent lunch at the new @crown_of_spices in Levittown. The kitchen specializes in Southern Indian recipes from Tamil Nadu, and whoa!!!! I’ve been Googling all week to find more restaurants like this. I don’t want to give too much away but I’ll just say the one thing that got deleted from my blurb, holy schnikes!

The rest is at the link in my bio. Less

Greek food is truly elite, especially when it’s from Just Greek 🇬🇷🥙🫓 Everything here is fantastic and this place as well as every bite feels like you’re transported right to Greece 🔥 This is a spot you need to visit and click the bio link for more‼️

#greekfood #njrestaurants #foodreview #foodcontent #justgreek Less

Dining Delight at Il Giallo in Sandy Springs
It’s been a while since I shared my thoughts on @gialloatl a beloved Italian gem in Sandy Springs. Nestled just outside the Perimeter, this spot is much like another favorite of mine, Minhwa Spirits. My wife, Mrs. Grubber, has a shortlist of go-to places for special occasions, including Bask Steakhouse and Il Giallo. While we haven't visited Branchwater since Todd Hogan's departure, Il Giallo remains a staple for us.

Special Occasions Without the Chaos
While Il Giallo does get busy for the annual Hallmark Day dinner, it avoids the chaos you might find during Mother’s Day brunch, New Year’s Eve, or Valentine’s Day. Perhaps it’s because we opt for a late Sunday dinner, making it a perfect annual Mother’s Day tradition.

A Menu to Savor
Mrs. Grubber is all about the chicken parmesan and Caesar salad, making this her top spot for such delights. As a sandwich enthusiast, I’d the pre-meal bread, but at least sample them all I can’t resist Chef Jamie Adams' house-made focaccia. It’s really quite outstanding and rivals my wife's any we had in her love for bread service.

This time around, I indulged in the veal chop parmesan. I must say, it surpasses even the excellent version at Trattoria 1*41. And let’s not forget the meatballs—a delightful mix of duck, turkey, and beef, now enhanced with mushrooms and onions. While I enjoy the new style, I have to admit that the Italian gravy version was also a winner.

Seafood and Beyond
The frutti di mare is potentially my favorite entrée, rivaling even Savory Gourmet’s catering menu version. With its distinctive squid ink spaghetti, it offers a unique twist that stands out.

Exploring the menu has been a culinary adventure. From their pizza, which once had a speakeasy vibe with G’s Pizza, to other classic dishes, Il Giallo is a place where you simply can’t go wrong. My wife has impeccable taste in both husbands and Italian restaurants.

What’s your go-to dish at Il Giallo? Have you tried the veal chop parmesan or the frutti di mare? Share your thoughts and let’s keep the conversation going!

#DiningInAtlanta #IlGiallo #SandySpringsEats #ItalianCuisine #FoodieFavorites Less

Newsday published my article on @gasalongthai.ny in Great Neck, Long Island this week, and I’m saying now, this is one to watch. I just went for lunch by myself, but I left thinking I want to come back with more people and try more of the Northern Thai dishes from the menu. I was really impressed by the beautiful lanterns, sophisticated restaurant design and interesting dishes from Chiang Mai. It honestly reminded me of my brother’s old restaurant Glai Baan in Phoenix. Link in bio for what to order.

@newsdayfeedme Less