Foodle

The menu said “23 Years of Quince,” but the dish I kept thinking about wasn’t on it: four ravioli that looked like sunflowers weathered by a summer without rain, sitting in a shallow but potent pool of corn jus, with its foam gathered around them. Then the chef Michael Tusk lays a flattened husk over the pasta, christening it with one last charge of corn.

The ceremony of it all might have seemed a bit much if the ravioli hadn’t been so good.

But they were. Their flavors built steadily: dark caramel first, then something toastier — likely the browned edge of a cob — before settling into the milky sweetness of raw kernels followed by aroma so relentlessly buttery it recalled the popcorn stand at a state fair.

I can count on one hand the corn dishes that have moved me as a food writer. The first cob I ate in Hokkaido, hot enough to melt the cold butter I kept pressing onto it; Cosme’s corn-husk meringue; Jean-Georges’s sweet-corn ravioli in basil fondue; and now these four, which evaded both the printed menu and my camera as I ate them quickly, without ceremony.

My dinner that began in their renovated dining room before it moved to the kitchen felt at times like a brisk overture of their greatest hits, including the (rightfully) vaunted beetroot spaghetti, stained red to its core and carrying a generous mound of caviar. It’s through this sequence that the prologues, a smoked almond custard brightened with slivered coins of kumquat and geoduck clam crowned over a mound of carosello melon — the cleanest and most precious of the dishes — stand in contrast with the later dishes, which more loudly trumpet Tusk’s style. Because as dinner progressed, so too did his rustic instincts, deepening into dishes like asparagus fished tableside from a cauldron of herbed bouillon (a revelation) and that hypnotically aromatic Watson Farm lamb, cooked at the hearth.

Yes, old signatures will always arrive with their reputations intact, but the better news is that Tusk does not seem especially interested in dining out on them.

Thank you @theandrewcheng for paving the way, @michaeltusk for the meal (to remember), and @davidefra86 for the hospitality.

📍@quince_sf
🍽️ June ‘26 Less

Discovering Chinatown's Culinary Gems: A Taste Adventure
I found myself in an enviable situation, following up what many consider the top pizza place in Manhattan with a visit to Chinatown’s consensus favorite—arguably. My stop at Uncle Lou's was a culinary delight.

A Sizzling Experience with Scallops
The scallops in black pepper sauce were served on a sizzling plate, and they were a true highlight. The scallops themselves were of high quality, but it was the world-class black pepper sauce that truly elevated the dish. It was flavorful without being overpowering. Have you ever tried a dish that perfectly balances bold flavors?

Wontons with a Twist
The wontons in chili oil at @unclelouny had more of a resemblance to shumai dumplings as compared to some of my favorites in Johns Creek, which are like smaller dumplings.

Comparing Chinatowns: A Broader Perspective
This wasn't my first rodeo in NYC's Chinatown; I've also explored the vibrant Chinatowns of San Francisco and Philadelphia. So, when New Yorkers boast about their unrivaled food scene, it's crucial to remind them that great Chinese food isn't exclusive to their city. Have you visited Duluth, Johns Creek, or BuHi? These spots offer incredible Chinese cuisine that deserve attention.

A Call to Explore
This isn’t to say the top 5 on a tiny stretch of Medlock Bridge would compete with the Chinatown of the one of the biggest cities in the world and most populated of US. They might not all make a top 5 list on Manhattan, but they certainly stand strong on their own. Isn't it time to stop pretending these places don't exist and start exploring them?

Ready to dive into more of what Chinatown has to offer? I'm eager to return and continue this delicious journey. What about you? Share your favorite Chinatown experiences or local finds in the comments!

#FoodAdventure #ChinatownEats #ExploreLocal #CulinaryJourney #AtlantaGrubber Less

If there is a cheesesteak out there that you absolutely must try…it’s from Danny & Coop’s 🔥🤯😮‍💨 I mean come on, this cheesesteak was seriously unreal‼️ Looks incredible and tastes unbelievably great 🤤 PS get the sweet peppers on the side to go with this 🫑 You gotta get here and hit the bio link for more on Danny & Coop’s 🫵🏻

#cheesesteak #dannyandcoops #dannyandcoopscheesesteaks #newyorkcityfood #nycfoodspots Less

X DFW HALAL TACO HUNT 🌮

Tried out @baeskitchenusa and got their birria since that was the closest to street style.
Solid tacos but the consome lacked flavor. For the price of $11.80, pretty good sized tacos 🔥

📍 771 W Round Grove Rd E600, Lewisville, TX 75067
⭐️ Birria tacos - 8.3/10
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#rating #tacos #halal #dfw #birria Less

At Bar School we were made to listen to recordings of ourselves failing.

No praise. No participation trophies. Just a room full of people explaining what needed fixing.

It steels you. It was also one of the most useful things I’ve ever done. There is good reason, supported by research, why that approach not only works but often prepares people better for success.

Years later, I found myself thinking about that while eating dinner at The Devonshire, one of London’s most celebrated restaurants and arguably the city’s most talked-about pub.

Not because The Devonshire is bad. Far from it.

But because I increasingly wonder what happens when a restaurant is praised so enthusiastically, and for so long, that criticism starts to feel impolite.

Does consensus eventually become truth?

Do we stop assessing a restaurant on its own merits and instead inherit the judgement of everyone who came before us?

My latest London restaurant review is now live on Substack. Less

In the Bay Area, anything can be a burrito, even Taiwanese fan tuan, sticky rice rolls packed with youtiao, pickles, pork floss and more. Local restaurants have taken to calling them "rice burritos."

Critic Cesar Hernandez tracked down the region’s best fan tuan from Hayward to Redwood City. The verdict: MITK Kitchen (@mitk1655) leads the pack, with standout contenders in San Mateo, Sunnyvale and Redwood City.

Visit the link in our bio for Cesar’s full ranking.

📸: @fukufoodz Less

I visited Sushi Arai in Ginza.This time, it was not the head chef but one of his apprentices preparing the sushi, yet I could fully appreciate the high reputation of this place through the wonderful offerings.The rice was light and had a great melt-in-your-mouth quality, perfectly complementing the toppings. The selection of fish, including the seasonal varieties and white tuna, showcased exceptional craftsmanship in each piece.One standout was the signature ohagi. This piece featured a combination of seared tuna and pickled daikon, which was distinctly different from the typical toro-taku. The rich umami and sweetness of the tuna, combined with the crunchy texture of the pickled daikon, created a perfect harmony, making it the most memorable piece of the day.The tuna itself was fantastic, with a seamless transition from medium to fatty tuna, truly impressive. The fat was rich yet not overwhelming, allowing me to fully enjoy the high quality of the fish. The sea urchin was also sweet and delicious, bringing a smile to my face.The restaurant has a calm and comfortable atmosphere, making it easy to enjoy the meal without feeling rushed. Even with the apprentice's sushi, I felt completely satisfied and could sense the depth of quality at Sushi Arai.I was reminded once again why this place is so hard to book. I look forward to returning in a different season.It was a great meal. Less