Kuroki (饗くろ喜) Tokyo

特製塩そば / Tokusei Shio Soba / Sanmaro - Kanda, Tokyo

Clear shio soup is made from Daisen brand whole chickens, chicken carcasses, asari clams, kombu, niboshi, saba niboshi, saba-bushi and katsuobushi. The shio tare contains two varieties of salt, the shoyu tare uses three kinds of soy sauce. Medium-thin straight noodles are provided by Kanno Seimen, cut on a number 22 cutter. The chashu is topped with yuzu and duxelles, a mushroom sauce of porcini paste and shiitake.

Sanmaro first opened as a yatai in the Nakasu area of Fukuoka around 1940. The original master, Mori-san, wanted to reproduce the ramen he had eaten in Shanghai (before WWII). A decade later in 1951, his apprentice Moriyama-san opened another yatai in the area called Gomaru (a name given by Mori-san). Moriyama-san's brother-in-law Tejima-san helped him run the business for a couple of years, then Tejima-san opened his own Gomaro shop in the Gion district of Hakata in 1953. Tejima-san and his wife ran the business until retirement in 1993, when their son took over. In 1994, he decided to change the name and concept, becoming Uma Uma and operating as a 'ramen izakaya.' Uma Uma is now run by the ‘Vigor’ company (Tejima-san is a representative) and has two shops in Hakata and one each in Singapore, Thailand, The Philippines and Tokyo Station. This new branch of Sanmaro is located in Kanda and run by master Fuji-san. Rather than serve Hakata tonkotsu, the menu offers new-school kodawari shio and shoyu. Open since December 2021. @sanmaro1941 Less

饗 くろ㐂

Motenashi Kuroki is has been consistently amazing over the last 10 years since opening in 2011. The draw has been the shio ramen, which evolves every few years but remains top level for me. As always, Kuroki-san cranks out frequent inventive gentei bowls for the regulars. A must-hit ramen shop in Tokyo.

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Shop: Kuroki (饗 くろ㐂)
Location: Akihabara, Tokyo
Style: Shio (and many more)

Motenashi Kuroki's master worked in French and Italian before opening his shop. At first he became loved for their refined shio ramen, but over the years he became equally famous for his many, many limited bowls he makes. He also changes the main recipe frequently, making this a regular spot for ramen hunters.

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Recommended bowl: A real pro

Kuroki is one of the premier ramen shops in Tokyo. The master, Kuroki-san, serves up all sorts of magical creations, ranging from his signature shio ramen to limited specials, which include soups made from such exotics as shellfish and duck. The standard shio comes with a clear soup made from chicken and kombu with a hint of pork. The handmade noodles come in various shapes and sizes, and the toppings are original and exquisite. Kuroki-san is one of those masters not content to do just one thing; he always seems to be trying to push the boundaries. Outstanding attention to detail combined with premium ingredients make this one a winner. Less