Mendokoro Bigiya Gakugei daigaku honten (麺処 びぎ屋 学芸大学本店) Tokyo

Recommended bowl: Top-class

Bigiya is a fixture of the Tokyo ramen circuit and is widely considered to be the best shop in the Gakugei-Daigaku area. It was created by master Takatoshi Chouryou, who studied at the well-known ramen shop Setagaya.

Chouryou-san sources most of the ingredients used at Bigiya from his hometown in Shizuoka Prefecture, which sits to the southwest of Tokyo. The careful selection of ingredients is apparent in each element of the ramen on offer.

Bigiya's house recommendation is 'shoyu ramen zenbu iri,' which basically means shoyu ramen with all the fixings — aji tama, buta chashu and tori chashu. The soup is made from chicken, 16 different types of gyokai and four varieties of shoyu. It's quite subtle and dynamic — light in color and consistency, but with good umami.

Chouryou-san's toppings are above average and elevate the bowl. The buta chashu is simmered in a secret tare. The tori chashu is soaked in another original tare for 24 hours and then roasted in the oven. Both chashus are then aged in the refrigerator for one night. The time-intensive prep delivers a depth of flavor and delicate texture. The egg is near flawless and the menma has an unexpectedly wild taste. Pro toppings work here.

Bigiya's noodles are sourced from the respected noodle provider Murakami Asahi Seimen.

Chouryou-san's menu is extensive; this is a shop that requires multiple visits. The tsukemen and niboshi are both well regarded, as are the seasonal specialties and gentei offerings that often pop onto the menu. On past visits we've caught a yuzu ramen special and a chilled ramen gentei dish served during the summertime. If we lived in the area, we'd be lining up regularly. Less