Foodle

Dining at Keisuke Matsumoto in Sendai is a deeply memorable culinary experience—one that affirms the restaurant’s quiet brilliance and its chef’s mastery in weaving the Wakon Yosai philosophy into every dish. This concept—harmonizing Japanese spirit with Western technique—is not a slogan here, but the very soul of the cuisine, developed over decades of international and domestic experience by Chef Keisuke Matsumoto himself.

Born in Sendai, Chef Matsumoto began his culinary journey locally before moving to France at the age of 25, where he trained in some of the most demanding French kitchens, including under Alain Senderens at the legendary Lucas Carton in Paris. He further refined his skills at Jean Bardet in Tours and Le Bretagne in Brittany before returning to Japan. His tenure at Roppongi Hills Club and later as Executive Chef at Lewin Terrace in Singapore allowed him to cultivate a style that is at once precise, intuitive, and profoundly rooted in Japanese seasonality. His return to Sendai marked the opening of a restaurant that feels like both a homecoming and a culmination.

The meal opens with a gougère of Miyagi-Shirome soybeans, filled with silky tofu and topped with caviar. Airy yet substantial, the gougère gives way to the gentle depth of the tofu, beautifully punctuated by the salinity of the caviar. It’s a clever, understated beginning that signals the chef’s fluency in restraint.

A remarkable course of five-year-aged Jambon Crus, cured by the chef himself, showcases his long view on flavor. Tasting and refining year by year, he pushed the aging from three to five, ultimately yielding an extraordinary depth of umami and a refined texture—a rare and personal achievement.

The tomato gazpacho, paired with Zao mozzarella and 30-year-aged balsamic, is a burst of late-summer clarity. Sun-kissed tomatoes bring sweetness and vibrancy, elegantly framed by the vinegar’s complexity and the cheese’s gentle creaminess. The mountain vegetable sashimi, incorporating kogomi and sansho leaf, is another highlight—slightly bitter greens matched with pristine fish, offering harmony and contrast.

Arahama surf clam with safflower and bamboo shoots is vibrant and textured, while white asparagus wrapped in Sendai Wagyu with spring truffle offers indulgence with precision. The asparagus provides crunch and acidity; the Wagyu, sweetness; the truffle, a whisper of earth—perfectly judged.

“L’eau d’aromatique”, one of the chef’s signature dishes, features flawlessly grilled kimedai in a clear, aromatic broth—delicate yet deeply satisfying.

Further courses include Yamagata duck with pineapple and house spices, and Hidakami Wagyu paired with seasonal vegetables and a Shaoxing wine reduction—dishes that speak of place, texture, and refined flavor construction.

Desserts uphold the standard: a shallow crème brûlée with a delicate crack and lush custard, followed by a ZAO fromage blanc with blood orange and pomegranate—light, bright, and refreshing.

Equally noteworthy is the beverage program, overseen by the front office manager—a former bartender with a sharp, intuitive touch. The wine selections are thoughtful and well-aligned with the dishes, but it’s the non-alcoholic pairings that truly shine: infusions, herbal concoctions, and freshly mixed juices created on the spot. These drinks are not mere substitutes, but original creations that interact with the food in meaningful ways.

Keisuke Matsumoto offers more than a meal—it is a quietly confident, deeply refined expression of culinary harmony. Every element is thoughtful, personal, and polished. A stunning experience. Less

At our kitchen table - North Sea salt with oyster, cockles and Breton lobster and salty herbs
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Brioche feuilletée with plankton butter
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Pigeon from Anjou, grilled and smoked with black garlic and beurre rouge
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Perfectly matured Kamiel naturelle from the shelf
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Cheese custard with blue grapes and gingerbread crunch
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‘Liquid Snickers’ - Peanut, chocolate and caramel
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Dinner in Antwerp at ⭐️⭐️ Hertog Jan, located in the beautiful Botanic Sanctuary hotel where we also stayed the night. Hertog Jan closed its doors at it’s former location near Bruges back in 2018 while partners Gert De Mangeleer and Joachim Boudens pursued other ventures. Then in the summer of 2020 they were offered the opportunity to open in the Botanic Sanctuary hotel and spa. The hotel is spectacular, with over 100 rooms, botanical gardens, several restaurants and a state of the art spa. The restaurant itself is also a beautiful room with a semi open kitchen that also has a cavelike kitchen table where we enjoyed one of the courses. Regarding the food I would say that overall it was good, with some dishes that were excellent. What I would say is that it had the feel of a restaurant that isn’t completely focused and pushing. As I understand it, the restaurant is only open for 8-10 days each month (2024 visit). This might explain my feelings on the food as I am not sure how a kitchen can maintain momentum, be truly consistent or push for further accolades if they effectively shut up shop for well over two weeks every month. They must have to gear back up each time they reopen and find their feet again. Perhaps I am not explaining myself very well. I guess maybe I just mean that it has a lot of potential. I would certainly recommend it if you’ve never been before, especially with a stay in the hotel aswell.
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Michelin Guide - ⭐️⭐️
La Liste - 93.50
W50B - ‘Discovery’
Best Chef Awards - 🔪
OAD - 31
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