Richard Vines

Well, here's a bit of a surprise. I went along to @10greekstreet when it first opened in 2012, but never actually made it back until I was invited last week: 13 wasted years! The online menu, which didn’t over-excite me, was something else on the plate. Two flatbreads/pizzas were among my favourites: Oregano & chilli bread, labneh 9 and Montanara, cime di rapa, ‘nduja & scamorza 16. I went along with an old friend and former Bloomberg @business colleague naomi_kerbel, and we enjoyed everything from the cocktails to a couple of scoops of ice cream for dessert. Among the dishes were: Two whole sardines, cods’roe, puntarelle, fennel & chilli 13; skate, purple sprouting broccoli, capers, lemon & bottarga 30. I recommend 10 Greek Street for simple, well-constructed plates where the flavour is of fine ingredients prepared with a light touch by a chef who leaves his ego at the kitchen door. #rvinesdines. Less

.Here's a quick rundown on my recent enjoyable trip to Dubai. I was hosted by @atlantistheroyal to attend a dinner cooked by @bjornfrantzen at his new restaurant @restaurantfzn. and to try some of their multiple others. Björn's dinner had more "Wows" than Bow Wow Wow, with luxury ingredients in creative dishes, served with warmth and in a dramatic restaurant housed over two floors. It was a gastronomic triumph that included dishes such as Langoustine, Koshihikari rice & "choron"; Chawanmushi, smoked-beef broth, razor clam and bafun uni. (I posted about the dinner earlier this week, so here I am going to move right along!) Among my other meals, I enjoyed @hakkasandubai the most. It was a match for many Hakkasan meals I have eaten in London, just ahead of Abu Dhabi, and let's just say Doha didn't have an alcohol licence when I was there years ago. There were also strong showings by @dinnerbyhbdubai and @christophe_devoille at The Royal Tearoom; The settings of @nobubythebeach and the infinity-pool luxury of Dolce & Gabbana x Ounass by Cloud 22 were stunning, the latter features luxury cabanas, overlooking an infinity pool. The huge breakfast offering at Gastronomy is the stuff of social-media legend: "1,000 covers, 96 chefs & 17 live stations". It certainly didn't disappoint , and the service is a match for the food . I had one of the best cups of coffee in my life there, and a very decent Bloody Mary. Over the choice of Moët & Chandon as house Champagne, we shall draw a veil. I absolutely loved the hotel --- the service, the public areas and my room. But I know the fact I was invited might arouse scepticism. I really do want to go back. I've toned down my enthusiasm for fear of sounding like those dreadful "influencers", whose rubbish prose is bloated as Botox lips. Thank you to the hotel for a very fine trip.. #rvinesdines #dubai #dubaidinng6 Less

I went along for lunch to @luckycatbygordonramsay at 22 Bishopsgate last week with mixed feelings. The original Lucky Cat took a bit of a battering when it opened on Grosvenor Square in 2019, mainly after @gordongram was accused of cultural appropriation But I was happy to be invited, and also I enjoyed the food at Lucky Cat. Anyways, the first thing ro say is how striking the new venue is, with high ceilings, bold designs and the thrill of actually looking down on @sushisamba, which felt impossibly high when it opened on the 38th and 39th floors of Heron Tower in August 2012. The whole Ramsay space on Bishopsgate is visually impressive, including the new cookery space @gordonramsayacademy, with two more @gordonramsayrestaurants to come. Lucky Cat's menu is dominated by Japanese dishes, followed by Chinese, with a little bit of Korean and Thai to keep the punters coming. The good news (and there is no bad to follow) is that the ingredients, cooking, presentation and service are good. Yes, dry ice swirls (as it must for us Instagrammers) but this food is not style over substance. Even Korean fried chicken -- a dish that annoys me because people seem to think this Johnny comes lately -- somehow represents that magnificent cuisine -- gets a welcome makeover as GFC (£17) Gordon's Fried Chicken, hot korean miso, kaffir cucumbers, black sesame. (Though I do note the use of the word "kaffir".) The showstopper Japanese selection Zanmai's quality is reflected in its £140 price tag for a chef’s selection of 12pc nigiri, 6pc sashimi, california maki, wagyu maki, spicy tuna. Among other dishes, I also enjoyed Bonito Fried Duck Leg Bao (£34); Sichuan, spicy hoisin, apple; and Wagyu Gyoza (£19) yuzu shichimi; and American Rib Eye,Snake River Farm. (It was market price per 100g: If the prices do concern you, there's a weekday Express Lunch Menu: Snacks/Umi or Tochi or Mori/Desserts at £29 for two courses, £34 for three. Champagne by the glass starts at £22 for NV Devaux, Cuvée D, aged 5 years; un-bubblies begin at £8; cocktails are in the £17-22 range.) Gordon still has his detractors. Someone messaged me to avoid the new Lucky Cat even before I went. But I enjoyed it! Less

I had an excellent lunch on Thursday @starlingbistro, the newish local restaurant from @beardymanchef. I long respected Nick Beardshaw in his years with @cheftomkerridge, but even that -- and a star this month from @michelinuk -- but even that didn't quite prepare me for just how good @starlingbistro in Esher did. The service is as good at it gets: Warm, engaging and professional, without unnecessary lingering at the table, or lengthy descriptions of the dishes.The room is attractive, the diners a decidedly charming bunch, the menu very tempting, with entirely reasonable prices. Nick was right there at the pass with his team. @markhastings75 and I had snacks of Truffle Cheese Crumpets, 36-months-aged Parmesan (£7.50); Chicken Nugget, honey glaze, house hot sauce (£9); Cornish Lobster Cocktail Hash brown, smoked lettuce (£18). Starters of "A Moon-Shaped Pool" (Great British Menu 2023) Hand-dived Orkney scallop, green Thai curry salty fingers, marinated cucumber (£22); Marinated Datterini Tomatoes, Buffalo Mozzarella, Lovage Pesto, Cheese Sable (313); Mains of Mushroom "Risotto", deep-fried egg, Roscoff onion, 36-month-aged Parmesan (£26.50); Herb-Crumbed Chicken"Kyiv", braised turnip, parsley, lemon, garlic (£29.50); with a side of triple-cooked chips (£7); Desserts of "Balloon Girl" Great Britis h Menu 2023, Raspberry Cheesecake, Chocolate Torte (£16.50; and a wonderful Brown-Butter Ice Cream, Piedmont hazelnuts, early-harvest olive oil (£11). Starling Bistro shares inspiration with @thecoachmarlow, yet has an original personality and style of its own. I recommend it. #rvinesdines Less

I am just back from Dubai, where I was invited by @atlantistheroyal to a dinner cooked by @bjornfrantzen at his new restaurant @restaurantfzn in @atlantisthepalm. Here, the Swedish chef and his team serve creative dishes that combine Scandinavian ingredients and contemporary techniques with Japanese influences. It's a 27-seat restaurant over two floors, where the kitchen is an integral part of the dining room. Featuring luxury ingredients from across the globe, the menu also highlights locally sourced herbs, dairy, vegetables, and flowers. Norwegian king crab, langoustines, Wagyu beef, truffle, caviar anyone? It was a great dinner, with modern presentation and a lightness of touch in the cooking, with a focus on the flavour of the ingredients that was never compromised by any ego of the chef. The night we dined, the menu included Taco, crustacean, celeriac & orange; Blini, shima-aji, pomelo & jalapeño råraka; Truffle Maxim, sunchoke and apple; Crudo, scallop, fermented apricot and turnip; Langoustine, Koshihikari rice & "choron"; Chawanmushi, smoked-beef broth, razor clam and bafun uni; Turbot, whey, walnuts & "Frantzén selection" caviar; French toast "grand tradition 2008"; truffle, "vache rosse" & aged balsamic vinegar; Onion, liquorice, almond; Wagyu "bbq", maitake, brisket & Sichuan pepper; Frozen lingonberry marshmallow, blackcurrant & spruce; Rhubarb, rooibos, yoghurt & tagetes; Petit fours, miso madeleines. (I'm not going to list the cocktails and wines, but they were a thoughtful match.) Service was friendly and en pointe. Unfortunately, I can't find the regular restaurant menu online, though if it's similar to ours, the AED 2,000 (£432) price-tag should not come as a surprise. But thank you to Atlantis, and to Björn, for inviting me. #rvinesdines #björnfrantzen #dubaidining #fzndubai #atlantistheroyal #[instagram] Less

Really excellent lunch today @gaggan_annan @louisvuitton in Bangkok. @vixthechef serves a creative menu of contemporary dishes that combine gastronomy and fashion. The menu reflects the Vuitton theme of travel and style, a big nod to Asia alongside international influences, including French clacissism and Spanish modernity. Vix is British, so I detect a bit of London in the mix, too. It's full of surprises, with luxury ingredients and an exploration of taste, texture and temperatures that I first encountered at The Fat Duck before making it to El Bulli. Yoghurt explodes in your mouth; you lick Louis Vuitton off the plate; a globe contains small plates inspired by sushi, Belgian waffles and tom yum kung as a crisp; pheasant is grilled with a pheasant kebab on the side; a light mushroom curry is served with rice cooked in a mushroom dashi, with Perigord truffles; a dessert features ice cream, potato foam and drops of liquid guanciale, topped with Oscietra caviar. (The innovative desserts are down to @dej_kewkacha.) Luckily, I was invited, so can't tell you what supplements are charged, but the nine-course lunch is 6,000++ baht (£145). Thank you to Gaggan and Vix for the invitation. #[instagram]#rvinesdines Less

I went to Farzi Cafe, on Haymarket, for lunch with one of my oldest friends, Jim. We worked together for years, in London and Hong Kong, and both particularly love Indian cuisine. Farzi is part of an international group that serves modern and accessible dishes in a brightly lit contemporary environment. Let's face it: Indian cuisine has a bit of a reputational problem among diners who associate it with heavy sauces and challenging spice levels. All nonsense, of course, as long as you stay away from unevolved balti houses. It's a varied cuisine made with fresh herbs and spices;. There are multiple vegetarian and fish dishes, and plenty of other things in line with modern dining, including simple grills and family-style sharing. We had fun at Farzi, and Jim was happy with my choice of restaurant. We tried a variety of dishes @farzilondon, including (if I remember correctly) Fryums & Pappadums (£5.5); Spicy Edamame (£7); Winter Beetroot & Chhena Kofta (£18); Chicken Railway Curry (£20); 4 Cheese & Wild Mushroom Kebab (£10); chicken dumplings (£11); Angara Paneer Shaslik (£14); and Butter Chicken Bao (£11). The dishes are colourful and, I'd say, created with youthful diners in mind. They are Instagrammable -- our old friend dry ice made an appearance at one point -- and not over-complex, with a hint of sweetness. There are well-priced non-veg and vegetarian menus at £42, and colourful cocktails, too. The lunchtime thali menu is £18.95. Thank you, Farzi, for the invitation. #rvinesdines #indianfood. Less

It's not entirely surprising to spot a dog in a London restaurant these days, but it's rare to see one looking so much at home as Cooper, who sits with diners in @portenoirekx. This wine/bar bistro is the project of @idriselba and the restaurateur @monsieurfarber, to whom the 7-year-old Labradoodle belongs. Cooper can be found in the dining room most nights. On the rare occasion when a diner has a problem with dogs, he's happy to hang out in the fine-wine room. I attended a Champagne dinner last night, which is a bit ridiculous as I've stuck with Dry January and I missed out on what I know to be excellent @portenoirebrands wines. Rather to my surprise, the food was so good, I didn't particularly care. We enjoyed a menu of Truffle and mushroom arancini, truffle mayo; Devonshire hand-dived scallop, Bresaola crisps; mushroom parfait, shiitake, grilled sourdough; stuffed calamari, sun-dried tomato tahini; miso black cod. celeriac, confit carrot, sauce Meuniere; Hereford beef short ribs, BBQ glaze, with chickpea chips; and a dessert selection of burnt matcha cheesecake/ chocolate cremeux, Calabrian olive oil, Maldon sea salt. I feel that Brazilian-born chef @eduardobordereau deserves at least a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Indeed, his dishes were better than I have eaten in some Michelin-starred restaurants. The venue was originally conceived principally as a wine bar, but there has been so much interest in the food, a separate dining room will open this year. Thank you to Cooper for inviting me. #rvinesdines Less

The Tate Modern Restaurant manages the impressive feat of flying under the radar while looking down on The Thames. The view across to St Paul's from the sixth-floor dining room is impressive, but I never hear from anyone about eating there. It's long been the story. Twenty years ago, I decided it would be a good idea to review the restaurants at Tate Modern and Tate Britain for @bloombergbusiness, and it was really a little difficult to find out about either. Two decades on, and the depressing fact is that the charming Rex Whistler restaurant at Tate Britain -- with its remarkable wine list and lovely tables on the lawn -- closed following concerns over its murals; while not a lot has changed at Tate Modern, until now. There's a new chef, Chris Gillard, best known as the former executive head chef at St. John, where he cooked for 15 years and won a Michelin star; and front of house is managed by @jampritch101 (Silo, Frenchie, St John and @bruno_loubet's Grain Store). I went for lunch with Bruno's wife, Catherine. She's visiting from Australia.(These days, if you want to try Bruno's cooking, there's always @seedsbybrunoloubet at Brisbane Airport.) Anyways, @chefgillard is shaking up things a bit, with a range of dishes highlighting seasonal British ingredients. He's also aligning his cooking with the Tate ethos, including menus inspired by current exhibitions. Right now, there's a Mike Kelley menu, which celebrates the experimental American artist and draws on the cultural landscape of his Detroit roots. I ordered Iceberg wedge salad, blue cheese dressing & crispy bacon - £11 (but went without bacon); followed by the vegetarian Hoppin John, black eyed peas, kale & crispy corn grits - £25. Catherine went a la carte, with Smoked chalk stream trout, potato & dill £12; Hake, celeriac & cider butter sauce - £28. And very good it all was, too. So I recommend that people should try the restaurant for its food, service and views! Thank you to Chris and James for inviting us. #rvinesdines@[instagram] #tatemodern Less

It was a pleasure to visit the new @santoremedio_uk in Marylebone last weekend. I've been friends with @edsondiazfuentes and Natalie Feary since they opened the first in Shoreditch 10 years ago. I invited along @randygarutti of @shakeshack, who, like many Americans, regretted the shortage of authentic Mexican restaurants in London. (That first restaurant received very positive reviews, but was short-lived because of problems with the landlord.) This time, I invited my oldest friend, @Corrine Bougaard of @union.dance, whom I first met 50 years ago when she danced with the then-Ballet Rambert, now @rambertdance. Anyways, we enjoyed a lunch that included Cured Seabass Ceviche fresh Guanabana juice & Habanero 16; Pork Belly Tacos crispy pork belly, salsa verde, sliced red onion & chicharron 13; Prawn Taco gluten-free beer & Tequila batter, grilled pineapple pico de gallo, Chipotle mayonnaise 14; Pork Belly Tacos crispy pork belly, salsa verde, sliced red onion & chicharron 13 Prawn Taco gluten-free beer & Tequila batter, grilled pineapple pico de gallo, Chipotle mayonnaise 14; and an excellent Dulce de Leche & Ancho Chili Tart crème fraîche 9.5. Very good it all was, too, though not quite so good for my low-carbs diet. Sadly, my Samsung S23 Ultra and I struggled a bit with the warm lighting, and my pictures are not great.) Congratulations and thanks to Natalie and Edson. #rvinesdines #mexicanfood.

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