Lucky Cat by Gordon Ramsay - Bishopsgate London

I went along for lunch to @luckycatbygordonramsay at 22 Bishopsgate last week with mixed feelings. The original Lucky Cat took a bit of a battering when it opened on Grosvenor Square in 2019, mainly after @gordongram was accused of cultural appropriation But I was happy to be invited, and also I enjoyed the food at Lucky Cat. Anyways, the first thing ro say is how striking the new venue is, with high ceilings, bold designs and the thrill of actually looking down on @sushisamba, which felt impossibly high when it opened on the 38th and 39th floors of Heron Tower in August 2012. The whole Ramsay space on Bishopsgate is visually impressive, including the new cookery space @gordonramsayacademy, with two more @gordonramsayrestaurants to come. Lucky Cat's menu is dominated by Japanese dishes, followed by Chinese, with a little bit of Korean and Thai to keep the punters coming. The good news (and there is no bad to follow) is that the ingredients, cooking, presentation and service are good. Yes, dry ice swirls (as it must for us Instagrammers) but this food is not style over substance. Even Korean fried chicken -- a dish that annoys me because people seem to think this Johnny comes lately -- somehow represents that magnificent cuisine -- gets a welcome makeover as GFC (£17) Gordon's Fried Chicken, hot korean miso, kaffir cucumbers, black sesame. (Though I do note the use of the word "kaffir".) The showstopper Japanese selection Zanmai's quality is reflected in its £140 price tag for a chef’s selection of 12pc nigiri, 6pc sashimi, california maki, wagyu maki, spicy tuna. Among other dishes, I also enjoyed Bonito Fried Duck Leg Bao (£34); Sichuan, spicy hoisin, apple; and Wagyu Gyoza (£19) yuzu shichimi; and American Rib Eye,Snake River Farm. (It was market price per 100g: If the prices do concern you, there's a weekday Express Lunch Menu: Snacks/Umi or Tochi or Mori/Desserts at £29 for two courses, £34 for three. Champagne by the glass starts at £22 for NV Devaux, Cuvée D, aged 5 years; un-bubblies begin at £8; cocktails are in the £17-22 range.) Gordon still has his detractors. Someone messaged me to avoid the new Lucky Cat even before I went. But I enjoyed it! Less