Mikadoya (美加登家) Tsuwano

This summer, Mikadoya has returned! The early summer of the year before last featured the refreshing flavor of "segoshi". Last year, we enjoyed the delightful taste of "arai" with larger fish during the height of summer. This time, I visited at the same time as last year to enjoy the changes in their dishes. ...And to my surprise, unexpected luck awaited me! - Sweetfish Nanban Porridge - Sweetfish and Winter Melon Soup - Sweetfish Arai - Grilled Sweetfish - Uruka Eggplant - Grilled Natural Eel with Nerve-Preserved Technique - Bitter Uruka and Sweetfish Simmer - Sweetfish Spring Rolls - Sweetfish Kombu-Dried Yam Somen - Crab in Seaweed Sauce Rice - Sweetfish Rice - Sweetfish with White Miso - Sweet Ume Compote First and foremost, I am always impressed and moved by the variety of ways they present the sweetfish, a seasonal fish. I’m not usually one for dishes that focus on a single ingredient, but I thoroughly enjoyed every moment! Moreover! On this day, the course was accented by eel and crab. Both are natural catches from the pristine Takatsu River, known as the best in Japan, and are rarely available. While a typical farmed eel might weigh around 300g, this one was an astonishing 1.1kg! Prepared using the nerve-preserving technique, it was grilled to a perfect crisp on the outside while keeping the fat and juiciness locked in. The pairing with fresh sansho pepper was exceptional, and the taste was truly remarkable—something you rarely encounter. This particular eel was caught just a few days prior. It had been thoroughly purged in a tank, making its debut on this day. I don’t think they saved it just for me, but I can’t help but feel lucky to have encountered such a delightful dish! (laughs) The hospitality was as pleasant as ever, and I can already see myself returning next year. It was a great meal. Less

This is my third visit. The restaurant has been renovated and looks brand new.I arrived quite early on a scorching hot day. There’s a library (or reading room?) next to the beauty salon diagonally across from the restaurant, which has air conditioning. I spent some time there reading about the origins of the place names in Shimane Prefecture (specifically, the Kanashi District where the restaurant is located).《Course of the Day》I added the appetizers myself. Fried sweetfish with nanban rice porridge and sansho leaves Grilled sweetfish and winter melon soup Sweetfish sashimi (Note: Sashimi is available until July; after that, the bones become thicker. Fortunately, there were young sweetfish available on this day.) Salt-grilled sweetfish with sansho vinegar Eggplant simmered in uruka miso with rice Sweetfish pickles Bitter uruka and sweetfish simmered in soy sauce with sansho (optional, extra charge) Sweetfish spring rolls Sweetfish rice, dried daikon, and sweetfish white miso soup Sweet plum syrup sorbet The fried sweetfish is prepared with the innards intact, yet there’s no bitterness at all; it’s surprisingly light and crispy.I was fortunate to have the sashimi, but usually, it’s served as "asari" (cut and chilled in cold water).The sweetfish spring rolls were a first for me and exceeded my expectations.Regarding the menu structure, I have one suggestion...This time, the delicacy and fried dish were served before the pickled dish. Shouldn’t these two be served before the pickled dish? I would prefer to cleanse my palate with the pickled dish after the fried items before moving on to the rice.Kaiseki cuisine follows this logic by placing pickled dishes before rice.Now, the star of this course is undoubtedly the "salt-grilled" sweetfish.You can eat it from head to tail without being conscious of the bones.The sansho vinegar is also excellent, and the absence of bitterness is something unique to Mikadoya.The first time I had sweetfish from the Takatsu River was at "Ayumasa" in Shimbashi.The restaurant, named after the first owner, Masaki Yamane, was run by his son, Tsunetaka.The second generation, Kie, continued to supply sweetfish to Ayumasa. When I visited, I was served by this proprietress, and I enjoyed hearing her stories about the challenges they faced.Currently, the third generation, Ichiro, and the fourth generation, Shunsuke, are in charge of cooking. Ichiro's wife provides service that rivals the second-generation proprietress in attentiveness and conversational skills. (I had a delightful dining experience.)This restaurant carries a family history that has been preserved with great effort.The dishes that present the sweetfish from the Takatsu River in its finest state are a traditional taste created by the Yamane family.This is definitely one of the restaurants I want to keep visiting. Less

I visited the long-awaited "Mikadoya," located about 30 minutes by car from Hagi Iwami Airport, which is a 90-minute flight from Haneda on an ANA flight.The course featured an impressive use of over 10 sweetfish!The first dish, "Sweetfish Nanban Porridge," not only had a stunning visual impact but also captivated my heart with its incredible taste.Although I visited in August, I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy fresh "Seigoshi" sweetfish.The additional "Uruka" and "Sweetfish Sake" were also exquisite, making this a fantastic restaurant worth the trip from afar!I look forward to visiting again in a different season.\Instagram/@all_you_need_is_love421@nagaikoeno.neko Less

I'm currently on a business trip in Shimane!This restaurant is quite difficult to visit due to its location, which rarely comes up in work or leisure, making it a challenging spot to reach, rivaling the famous Yuzuki Moto in Iida.It ranks number one in the Tabelog Shimane category.Finally, I visited Mikadoya in Tsuwano!!By the way, I mentioned that I wouldn’t visit for leisure, but the ruins of Tsuwano Castle, about a 17-minute drive away, offer a stunning view from the mountaintop, and it’s a tourist spot with the birthplace of Mori Ogai!The Ayu Nanban Porridge was exquisite.The Ayu with Winter Melon was exquisite.The Segoshi was a rare delicacy and exquisite.The Grilled Ayu was exquisite.The Fresh Uruka with Eggplant was exquisite.The Ayu Vinegar with Junsai was exquisite.The Ayu with Sansho was exquisite.The Young Uruka was exquisite.The Bitter Uruka was exquisite.The Ayu Uruka White Miso Spring Roll was absolutely amazing.The Ayu Rice was absolutely amazing.The White Miso Ayu Soup was exquisite.The Ume Sweetened Boiled Shaved Ice was exquisite.This long-established restaurant allows you to enjoy the exquisite Ayu from the Takatsu River in various dishes. The young master, who trained for eight years at the renowned restaurant Ogata in Kyoto, has returned, significantly enhancing the pure Japanese cuisine offered here!!Right from the start, the balance of vinegar in the Ayu Nanban Porridge was wonderful!!The Segoshi, which can only be enjoyed during the young Ayu season, has soft bones, and the dish is prepared so that you can taste the marrow by cutting through the bones! I had heard rumors about it, but this was my first time trying it!!The Ayu with Sansho and Young Uruka that I ordered additionally were rare delicacies and exquisite!!Of course, the grilled Ayu from the Takatsu River was impressive, but as someone who enjoys unique dishes, the Ayu Uruka White Miso Spring Roll, with its mild and complex flavors of Uruka and white miso, was the highlight of the meal!!The Ayu Rice was also quite filling!!I thought it was far away, but it’s only a 30-minute drive from Iwami Hagi Airport, so it’s not that far physically!!Next time, I’d like to visit during the autumn season when the Ayu with eggs (Fallen Ayu) is available!!Tabelog Shimane categoryRanked 30th on 3/30.I have visited the restaurant!!! Less

Appetizer Ayugawa Nanban Porridge - Cold Sushi Style Soup Ayuu, Winter Melon Ayuu Sashimi Zegoshi (Limited to June-July) Grilled Ayuu with Tade Vinegar Delicacies Bitter Uruka Young Uruka Ayuu with Sansho Soy Sauce Uruka Eggplant, Rice Vinegared Dish Ayuu Kombu-zukuri, Junzai Ayuu Spring Rolls Raw Uruka, Miso, Egg, Sugar, Sansho Ayuu Rice, Ayuu Soup with White Miso Green Plums, Ice Founded in 1934, Mikadoya is a renowned restaurant specializing in Ayuu cuisine, preserving its legacy for over 80 years by the banks of the Takatsu River. The interior retains a strong Showa-era charm, housed in a building that was once an inn. The third-generation owner, Ichiro Yamane, skillfully transforms every part of the natural Ayuu, often regarded as the best in Japan. The limited-time Zegoshi and the spring rolls are crafted with a clever balance of flavors, with the sansho becoming more pronounced as you finish, showcasing the depth of this single ingredient and the chef's dedication to exploration. If you visit Tsuwano, this is a must-try destination for authentic Ayuu cuisine. Less

The course featured a variety of dishes centered around sweetfish. Starting with sweetfish sake, we enjoyed sweetfish porridge, sweetfish clear soup, and sweetfish sashimi, among others. The sashimi had a perfect balance of bones and flesh, reminiscent of conger eel, and the texture was absolutely delightful. The chef's skill in preparing such a range of sweetfish dishes, along with the well-thought-out sequence of courses, kept the experience engaging. The aged Japanese sake was also remarkable, reminiscent of vintage Shaoxing wine. Less

It takes about 15 to 20 minutes on foot from JR Yamaguchi Line's Nihara Station.Once again this year, I visited Mikadoya to enjoy the sweetfish from the Takatsu River.In early June, shortly after the sweetfish fishing season opened, I was worried about the early typhoon, but thankfully, both the sweetfish and the weather were fine, and I arrived safely at Hagi-Iwami Airport.I headed there by rental car.As I passed through the noren curtain and opened the door, I was greeted by the gentle aroma of the tea incense.Welcomed by the tea incense and a lovely sweetfish ornament on the first floor, I was then guided upstairs to my room.Even before the meal began, I sensed a small change that felt distinctly like this year's Mikadoya.Following last year's bountiful catch, this year also promises a good harvest.The sweetfish from 2026 seemed to have grown well, and although they were young sweetfish just after the season opened, they were slightly larger than usual.I was excited to see what flavors this year's sweetfish would bring.The first dish was sweetfish nanban porridge.With a refreshing acidity, it gently awakened my appetite for the sweetfish feast to come, making it a delightful start that I look forward to every year.This year, it even included some tamarind beans!The green aroma and subtle sweetness, along with the texture of the small grains, paired wonderfully with the nanban porridge, creating a taste unlike any I had experienced before.It was so delicious that I finished it in no time.Next was a bowl of winter melon and sweetfish, a comforting dish with gentle dashi and winter melon.Then came the much-anticipated back-sliced sweetfish.Only available when the fish is fresh, I was thrilled to enjoy it again this year!As I took out the chilled back-sliced sweetfish from the ice, I was first surprised by its size.It seemed a bit too grown for a young sweetfish.I dried it with some Sekishu washi paper and enjoyed it with myoga, soy sauce, and citrus.This year, it had even better fat content and a firm texture.Wow, I was amazed! Next was the grilled sweetfish, a yearly favorite.Each person received two beautifully stacked sweetfish, making it hard not to take a photo!This year, I could really feel the rich umami from the fat.I also noticed a slightly stronger bitterness from the liver than usual, but that too is part of this year's sweetfish's character.The sweetfish raised in the Takatsu River, one of Japan's clearest streams, eat high-quality moss and embody the fragrance worthy of being called "aromatic fish." This year's sweetfish was exceptionally delicious.The eggplant cooked with uruka also showed small innovations this year.While it was already well-flavored, this year, part of the skin was peeled.It’s clear that they are always thinking about how to serve the best possible dish.First, I enjoyed the eggplant infused with the umami of uruka, then I mixed in some white rice into the same bowl.I savored every drop of the cooking liquid, making me want to ask for a refill.This year’s new offering was sweetfish aged sushi.This dish was served for the first time at Mikadoya, made with last year's sweetfish that were sent to a shop in Shiga for preparation.While aged sushi can have a strong flavor, the sweetfish from last year had a floral aroma and a slight fat content that transformed during aging, making it very easy to eat.I didn’t realize sweetfish could have such a profile.The vinegared junsai that followed was also refreshing.And then came the now-standard sweetfish spring rolls.This year marks the second year since they were introduced in spring roll form.The way the skin was wrapped has changed since the first time, and once again, there were subtle improvements.Though they may seem like minor changes at first glance, the difference is significant once you taste it.This spring roll has become a dish I look forward to every year, and it has firmly established itself as a staple for me.Even though I know it will be hot, I can’t help but want to take a bite as soon as it arrives.The crispy skin crackles as I bite into it, releasing the flavors of uruka, white miso, and sweetfish all at once.As I continue eating, I encounter the sansho pepper, allowing me to enjoy the flavor variations until the very end.The sweetfish sake ordered by my friend also left a strong impression.The sweetfish sake, made by placing grilled sweetfish into a cup, not only has a roasted aroma but also allows the umami of the sweetfish to gently dissolve into the sake.Just one sip made me exclaim, "This is really delicious!"From the initial roasted flavor, as time passes, the umami of the sweetfish melds in, and the aroma and taste gradually change, adding to the enjoyment of this sweetfish sake.When I first visited, my friend ordered it, and since then, the aroma and taste have remained in my memory.On this day, my friend also enjoyed local sake with the dishes while relishing the sweetfish course, especially delighted with the sweetfish sake.As I savored the gradual changes, I realized that the meal was nearing its end, and I recommend ordering an extra cup early if you're interested.If you're enjoying sweetfish, this is a dish you definitely want to try.Finally, we moved on to the rice dish.As soon as I opened the lid, I noticed a change from before.Previously, the sweetfish was finely shredded, but this time, it was served with larger pieces of fish.I could feel the umami and presence of the sweetfish more strongly, making it more satisfying to eat.Together with the white miso soup, it was a perfect conclusion to the sweetfish feast.For dessert, we enjoyed sweetened green plums that had been prepared the previous year, served with crunchy shaved ice.This sweetness is just wonderful.Ah, I want to eat more! Since the fourth generation has returned, I’ve noticed improvements in the dishes every time I visit.From the nanban porridge and vinegared dishes to the eggplant cooked with uruka, spring rolls, and sweetfish rice, there are small changes each year.However, once you taste them, the differences are anything but small.Even though it feels like I’m having the same sweetfish course, the fact that I can encounter new expressions each year is a big part of the joy of coming here.For those who think they know the taste of sweetfish, I highly recommend experiencing the aromatic fish from the Takatsu River.It’s a wonderful full course of sweetfish that is worth visiting even from afar.I also appreciate the always attentive and warm hospitality from the third generation, the proprietress, the fourth generation, and the staff.I look forward to visiting Mikadoya every year, not just for the food but for the warm welcome from everyone.I can’t wait to see what kind of sweetfish and dishes I will encounter next year.Thank you for the wonderful meal! ^^Thank you for sticking with me until the end! Your likes, saves, and comments are always a great encouragement.I’ll introduce more delicious places that I want to visit again, even if I have to wait for the season! ^ ^ Less