It takes about 15 to 20 minutes on foot from JR Yamaguchi Line's Nihara Station.Once again this year, I visited Mikadoya to enjoy the sweetfish from the Takatsu River.In early June, shortly after the sweetfish fishing season opened, I was worried about the early typhoon, but thankfully, both the sweetfish and the weather were fine, and I arrived safely... More
It takes about 15 to 20 minutes on foot from JR Yamaguchi Line's Nihara Station.Once again this year, I visited Mikadoya to enjoy the sweetfish from the Takatsu River.In early June, shortly after the sweetfish fishing season opened, I was worried about the early typhoon, but thankfully, both the sweetfish and the weather were fine, and I arrived safely at Hagi-Iwami Airport.I headed there by rental car.As I passed through the noren curtain and opened the door, I was greeted by the gentle aroma of the tea incense.Welcomed by the tea incense and a lovely sweetfish ornament on the first floor, I was then guided upstairs to my room.Even before the meal began, I sensed a small change that felt distinctly like this year's Mikadoya.Following last year's bountiful catch, this year also promises a good harvest.The sweetfish from 2026 seemed to have grown well, and although they were young sweetfish just after the season opened, they were slightly larger than usual.I was excited to see what flavors this year's sweetfish would bring.The first dish was sweetfish nanban porridge.With a refreshing acidity, it gently awakened my appetite for the sweetfish feast to come, making it a delightful start that I look forward to every year.This year, it even included some tamarind beans!The green aroma and subtle sweetness, along with the texture of the small grains, paired wonderfully with the nanban porridge, creating a taste unlike any I had experienced before.It was so delicious that I finished it in no time.Next was a bowl of winter melon and sweetfish, a comforting dish with gentle dashi and winter melon.Then came the much-anticipated back-sliced sweetfish.Only available when the fish is fresh, I was thrilled to enjoy it again this year!As I took out the chilled back-sliced sweetfish from the ice, I was first surprised by its size.It seemed a bit too grown for a young sweetfish.I dried it with some Sekishu washi paper and enjoyed it with myoga, soy sauce, and citrus.This year, it had even better fat content and a firm texture.Wow, I was amazed! Next was the grilled sweetfish, a yearly favorite.Each person received two beautifully stacked sweetfish, making it hard not to take a photo!This year, I could really feel the rich umami from the fat.I also noticed a slightly stronger bitterness from the liver than usual, but that too is part of this year's sweetfish's character.The sweetfish raised in the Takatsu River, one of Japan's clearest streams, eat high-quality moss and embody the fragrance worthy of being called "aromatic fish." This year's sweetfish was exceptionally delicious.The eggplant cooked with uruka also showed small innovations this year.While it was already well-flavored, this year, part of the skin was peeled.It’s clear that they are always thinking about how to serve the best possible dish.First, I enjoyed the eggplant infused with the umami of uruka, then I mixed in some white rice into the same bowl.I savored every drop of the cooking liquid, making me want to ask for a refill.This year’s new offering was sweetfish aged sushi.This dish was served for the first time at Mikadoya, made with last year's sweetfish that were sent to a shop in Shiga for preparation.While aged sushi can have a strong flavor, the sweetfish from last year had a floral aroma and a slight fat content that transformed during aging, making it very easy to eat.I didn’t realize sweetfish could have such a profile.The vinegared junsai that followed was also refreshing.And then came the now-standard sweetfish spring rolls.This year marks the second year since they were introduced in spring roll form.The way the skin was wrapped has changed since the first time, and once again, there were subtle improvements.Though they may seem like minor changes at first glance, the difference is significant once you taste it.This spring roll has become a dish I look forward to every year, and it has firmly established itself as a staple for me.Even though I know it will be hot, I can’t help but want to take a bite as soon as it arrives.The crispy skin crackles as I bite into it, releasing the flavors of uruka, white miso, and sweetfish all at once.As I continue eating, I encounter the sansho pepper, allowing me to enjoy the flavor variations until the very end.The sweetfish sake ordered by my friend also left a strong impression.The sweetfish sake, made by placing grilled sweetfish into a cup, not only has a roasted aroma but also allows the umami of the sweetfish to gently dissolve into the sake.Just one sip made me exclaim, "This is really delicious!"From the initial roasted flavor, as time passes, the umami of the sweetfish melds in, and the aroma and taste gradually change, adding to the enjoyment of this sweetfish sake.When I first visited, my friend ordered it, and since then, the aroma and taste have remained in my memory.On this day, my friend also enjoyed local sake with the dishes while relishing the sweetfish course, especially delighted with the sweetfish sake.As I savored the gradual changes, I realized that the meal was nearing its end, and I recommend ordering an extra cup early if you're interested.If you're enjoying sweetfish, this is a dish you definitely want to try.Finally, we moved on to the rice dish.As soon as I opened the lid, I noticed a change from before.Previously, the sweetfish was finely shredded, but this time, it was served with larger pieces of fish.I could feel the umami and presence of the sweetfish more strongly, making it more satisfying to eat.Together with the white miso soup, it was a perfect conclusion to the sweetfish feast.For dessert, we enjoyed sweetened green plums that had been prepared the previous year, served with crunchy shaved ice.This sweetness is just wonderful.Ah, I want to eat more! Since the fourth generation has returned, I’ve noticed improvements in the dishes every time I visit.From the nanban porridge and vinegared dishes to the eggplant cooked with uruka, spring rolls, and sweetfish rice, there are small changes each year.However, once you taste them, the differences are anything but small.Even though it feels like I’m having the same sweetfish course, the fact that I can encounter new expressions each year is a big part of the joy of coming here.For those who think they know the taste of sweetfish, I highly recommend experiencing the aromatic fish from the Takatsu River.It’s a wonderful full course of sweetfish that is worth visiting even from afar.I also appreciate the always attentive and warm hospitality from the third generation, the proprietress, the fourth generation, and the staff.I look forward to visiting Mikadoya every year, not just for the food but for the warm welcome from everyone.I can’t wait to see what kind of sweetfish and dishes I will encounter next year.Thank you for the wonderful meal! ^^Thank you for sticking with me until the end! Your likes, saves, and comments are always a great encouragement.I’ll introduce more delicious places that I want to visit again, even if I have to wait for the season! ^ ^ Less
