Foodle

Dining at Sushi Arai at the main counter on the second floor is an experience reserved for those fortunate enough to access Chef Arai’s personal domain. With just seven seats and an almost sacred quietude, the space feels like a temple to Edomae craft—restrained, reverent, and obsessively focused. Arai-san himself was behind the counter, conducting the meal with calm precision.

The otsumami portion was extraordinary—far more memorable than the nigiri that followed. Each dish was thoughtful, paced, and quietly inventive. One stood far above the rest: a single hamaguri, hand-warm, gently placed over rice with the faintest touch of olive oil. The addition of the oil—a seemingly modern flourish—was transformative. It elevated the dish from something already very good to something bordering on genius. The warmth, the softness of the clam, the fragrance of the oil, and the neutrality of the rice came together with startling harmony. It was among the best preparations of hamaguri I’ve ever encountered—unexpected, bold, and deeply satisfying.

When the meal transitioned to nigiri, expectations naturally rose. Arai-san’s reputation is built in large part on this part of the meal. The technique, the sourcing, the seasoning—all were faultless. And yet, somehow, the nigiri course felt slightly muted. The rice, seasoned assertively with a blend of vinegars, held its structure beautifully. The fish was top-quality, meticulously sliced. But where the otsumami had moments of ingenuity and emotion, the nigiri felt more clinical—precise, but without that same emotional impact.

There was, of course, one exception: the tuna. From akami to chutoro to ootoro, Arai-san delivered exactly what is expected at the highest level in Tokyo. These pieces had depth, texture, and a lingering umami that reminded you where you were—and who was making them.

In all, the meal at Sushi Arai’s main counter was a study in contrasts: a breathtaking otsumami sequence that flirted with brilliance, and a nigiri course that, while expertly crafted, stopped just short of magic. But to witness Arai-san at work, especially with dishes like that hamaguri, is still to glimpse the mind of a master. Less

I went along for lunch to @luckycatbygordonramsay at 22 Bishopsgate last week with mixed feelings. The original Lucky Cat took a bit of a battering when it opened on Grosvenor Square in 2019, mainly after @gordongram was accused of cultural appropriation But I was happy to be invited, and also I enjoyed the food at Lucky Cat. Anyways, the first thing ro say is how striking the new venue is, with high ceilings, bold designs and the thrill of actually looking down on @sushisamba, which felt impossibly high when it opened on the 38th and 39th floors of Heron Tower in August 2012. The whole Ramsay space on Bishopsgate is visually impressive, including the new cookery space @gordonramsayacademy, with two more @gordonramsayrestaurants to come. Lucky Cat's menu is dominated by Japanese dishes, followed by Chinese, with a little bit of Korean and Thai to keep the punters coming. The good news (and there is no bad to follow) is that the ingredients, cooking, presentation and service are good. Yes, dry ice swirls (as it must for us Instagrammers) but this food is not style over substance. Even Korean fried chicken -- a dish that annoys me because people seem to think this Johnny comes lately -- somehow represents that magnificent cuisine -- gets a welcome makeover as GFC (£17) Gordon's Fried Chicken, hot korean miso, kaffir cucumbers, black sesame. (Though I do note the use of the word "kaffir".) The showstopper Japanese selection Zanmai's quality is reflected in its £140 price tag for a chef’s selection of 12pc nigiri, 6pc sashimi, california maki, wagyu maki, spicy tuna. Among other dishes, I also enjoyed Bonito Fried Duck Leg Bao (£34); Sichuan, spicy hoisin, apple; and Wagyu Gyoza (£19) yuzu shichimi; and American Rib Eye,Snake River Farm. (It was market price per 100g: If the prices do concern you, there's a weekday Express Lunch Menu: Snacks/Umi or Tochi or Mori/Desserts at £29 for two courses, £34 for three. Champagne by the glass starts at £22 for NV Devaux, Cuvée D, aged 5 years; un-bubblies begin at £8; cocktails are in the £17-22 range.) Gordon still has his detractors. Someone messaged me to avoid the new Lucky Cat even before I went. But I enjoyed it! Less