Malaspina Madrid

Rubia Gallega ‘Bikini’ from @restauranteamos @rosewoodvillamagna @rosewoodhotels @_jesussanchez 😮‍💨🥩
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This was a crazy bite. The bikini originated in Barcelona but is hugely popular across Spain - didn’t realise until I got to Madrid. This version takes things to another level, with an ingredient selection and level of refinement far above the norm.

Super flakey croissant bread, toasted in clarified butter and Galician beef fat. Briefly pan-seared Rubia Gallega beef tenderloin, served medium. Granja La Sierra cheese from the very same cow, melted beautifully over the top. Confit chocolate peppers and anchovy mayonnaise to finish.

It’s properly indulgent and rich. The anchovy mayo and beef fat hit immediately with deep umami, while the croissant bread is buttery, flakey and seriously moreish.

It’s a sandwich that’ll either put you to sleep or give you enough energy to get you through the day. Wild! Less

The incredible Turbot Pil Pil from @estimarzafra , Madrid 🇪🇸🔥
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Easily my favourite fish when made like this. There’s something really special about a restaurant that can truly nail this sauce. It’s ultra-simple on paper, but properly technical in practice.

At Estimar they grill the turbot for just a few minutes in the Josper, before resting it and finishing it gently so all the natural juices collect in the tray. Turbot is incredibly rich in collagen and as it cooks, that collagen converts into gelatin. It’s this gelatin that is emulsified with the fish juices and olive oil to create a super cohesive, naturally creamy, silky-smooth sauce. Nothing quite like it.

Clean, sweet turbot, deep olive oil richness, gentle garlic warmth, subtle chilli heat. It’s a crazy bite. Meaty, buttery, with a beautiful light char.

Had lots of bites here but this was the star. More on Estimar this week. NF x Less