A very strong debut in Kagurazaka from @yoshiaki_archeste and team at L’Eterre.

Perched on the second story in a neighborhood full of great food, the space is long and stylish. An elegant leather wrapped kitchen counter puts you face to face with the staff. They’re delivering smart and delicious food that reminds me of eating in Paris. Japanese ingredients, including fish from @sasue812, feature heavily, though the flavors aren’t in any way fusion. Salt and richness levels are what I’d expect in Europe more so than Tokyo.

Special mention for the wine pairing, which I seldom take. It was almost entirely producers I’ve not seen before, including some that haven’t had a presence in the Japanese market until now. The bottle list is also extensive and well edited.

Visiting a brand new restaurant is often disappointing, and requires a bit of understanding while they work out the kinks. L’Eterre hit the ground running: I liked everything on the menu, not a single weak spot. Standouts included the Amadai fritto, the Sawara, the Chervil root, and the pigeon.

I’ve already booked my return visit.