Sometimes Washington, DC can make you forget that the district is actually part of the South. In the national capital region, the general rule is to drive fast and honk even faster lest the vehicle in front fails to notice the green light as quickly as you did. Coffee is less a pleasure to savor and more of a morning pick-me-up, mostly transported in a paper cup, both for portability and sipping while your attention is directed elsewhere. (Recently, my friend Anna from Berlin was relieved to find an eatery serving coffee in a ceramic cup!) The tendency is to hurry up, always, and move on to the next pressing task. So what a joy to come to a place like the Dabney and have time slow down, like a satisfying Southern drawl you haven’t heard in a while. Eating here is a gastronomic pleasure with no rush 🙏
Inside, the rugged brick walls and wooden tables carry echoes of a country residence, now repurposed as restaurant space. A study of the prix-fixe menu reveals the best and freshest of local sourcing—born and bred, planted and harvested—from all corners of the mid-Atlantic. The application of classic, time-honored techniques draws out their deep-rooted flavors. Transforming terrific products into tantalizing courses is made possible by the wood-burning hearth, the pièce de résistance of the kitchen. This centerpiece houses an illuminating fire that is primal, elemental, alive even. The glowing embers impart a characteristic signature on every meat and vegetable they touch. If you need proof, just order the plate of roasted vegetables with skins blistered and charred from the heat. You will find them smoky, succulent, and mouth-wateringly delicious. In many ways, the cooking reminds me of rustic simplicity from long ago. In escaping the hustle of DC, dining at the Dabney is a historical excursion that somehow feels like you have come home 🏠
OPENING SNACKS 😋
1a) Metompkin Bay Oyster, Keepwell Aronia Berry Vinegar Mignonette
1b) Charred Eggplant, Cornmeal Cracker
1c) Zucchini Fritter, Smoked Crème Fraîche, Roselle
2) Melon juice with lemon verbena and cucamelon
3) Fried catfish & sweet potato roll sandwich
