Indian Accent Mumbai Mumbai

We are witnessing a change of guard with a new generation of chefs taking charge of restaurants. The hot shot chefs and restaurateurs of the early noughts, the generation that spearheaded the stand alone restaurant movement, have transitioned into wise (mostly) mentors.

Few chefs though face as much of a challenge as @rijul.gulati @indianaccentmumbai who needs to live up to the legacy of the two Mehrotras, particularly Manish. There’s also the matter of Mumbai not quite warming up to the iconic brand as much as its Delhi counterparts.

If his new tasting menu is anything to go by then it shows he’s up to the challenge.

The only one course I took exception to was the Baked Duck Pulao where I found the rice to be too pungent and the duck too ephemeral. I didn’t find the basic wine pairing too thrilling, but I also accept wine paired menus are not easy to pull off. While Rijul has done a great job incorporating elements from Delhi and across the country, the absence of Bombay, the Konkan, or Maharashtra is a lacunae that ought to be addressed.

But these are niggling concerns and the menu on the whole is quite thoughtful and engaging. There’s a wonderful rendition of the famous New Friends Colony shawarma and an exceptional crab ghee roast in nandu rasam. I thought marinating the fish-shaped slices of regular carrot in the kanji pickle was quite an unexpected twist.

And I’m seriously contemplating making a pit stop at Indian Accent everytime I’m in BKC for the Barrel Aged Boulvardier.
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