La Loca Maria Mumbai

After two fantastic meals @laloca_maria I was curious to know how @lapantheraindia , @chefmanuelolveira and @mickeerocks other restaurant in BKC would compare. Where La Loca is firmly Spanish and Italian – Manuel’s forte - at La Panthera he paints on a broader European canvas. Even though I had heard, and read, very good things, about it, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.
What I have come to realise since is irrespective of the cuisine, Manuel’s food e defined by two qualities that separates him from other chefs: restraint and balance. It doesn’t matter whether you’re tasting his regular menu at La Panthera and La Loca, or special menus like a Sunday Brunch or one with Black Truffles. You’ll find the same traits in every dish.
Take the Bloody Mary Ceviche for instance; an innovative adaptation certainly, but one which could easily slide into the unpalatable. There’s just the right amount of fruitiness and heat in the Bloody Mary granita to enhance the acidity of the leche de tigre, and sweetness and texture from the corn to round off the palate. It could do easily have had too much chilli, or too much tomato.
Or the Steak Tartare where a quenelle of chilled silky minced meat sits on a hot crisp potato pavé with hints of truffle oil and wisps of grated parmesan add a bit of bite.
It is the essence of the La Panthera where creamy burrata smooths over the spicy N’duja sausage, or the Grilled Sea Bass with crunchy pak choi and a tempered horseradish edamame.
It is what makes La Panthera such a special and unique Mumbai restaurant.
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I really shouldn't say this, but I quite like truffle oil.
I know it's fake. I know it's a petroleum derivative. I know it's shameful and disgusting and I'll probably be banished to purgatory.
But I still enjoy it - when used appropriately.
Real black truffle has a completely different character. It's not in your face and overpowering; it's far more delicate and gentler, it integrates into the dish rather than overpowers. It doesn't shout to be heard, but makes it presence felt subtly, yet distinctively.
For La Trufa Negra menu @laloca_maria @chefmanuelolveira has harnessed these talents into dishes where the truffle stands out, but doesn't outshine the other elements.
You see it in the light, creamy Honey Ricotta and the very mildly spiced Cacio e Pepe. It has a bolder presence in the crispy, sweet-spicy Chicken Wings, but it's pungent aromatic nature is best expressed in the Agnolotti and the Truffled Tartare.
With the Pork Belly, the soft, creamy verdinas beans from northern Spain are the star. As is the seared duck breast in the Dry Aged Duck. In both, the truffles deserve an Oscar for Best Supporting Ingredient.
No truffles fortunately in the La Loca Black Forest, but what I loved about it, is that, unlike most other deconstructed Black Forests which I hate with a passion, this one actually manages to capture the essence of the classic pastry.
The Black Truffle promotion will continue through February.
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