middle (middle) Kyoto

I had a feeling that this French restaurant would have strong Japanese elements based on the chef's introduction and the ambiance, so I decided to visit for the first time.As I climbed the stairs, I was greeted by a nostalgic scent of incense wafting through the entrance, which made me feel at ease. The seating arrangement allowed for a view of the Kamo River as if it were a screen, with simple yet high-quality wooden chairs and a soothing background music that created a serene atmosphere. It was clear that the restaurant's world was well expressed, and it resonated deeply with me.The dishes offered here distinguished themselves from the typical French cuisine influenced by Japanese flavors, allowing me to fully appreciate the textures and flavors of the ingredients.Additionally, the drink pairings were thoughtfully considered, so I recommend asking the staff for suggestions on beverages that complement the dishes. I chose a vintage champagne out of curiosity, but it felt a bit overpowering for the delicacy of the food (though the champagne itself was excellent). Later, when I selected a wine that paired well with the cheese, the combination was perfect, and both were delightful.I won't go into detail about each dish, as that would take too long, but I will say this:I enjoy classic French cuisine and sauces, so I sometimes feel disappointed when a dish leans too heavily towards Japanese influences. However, this restaurant offers a unique experience that speaks to the Japanese palate in a way that is different from typical French cuisine.While I don't dislike lively restaurant styles, I personally prefer the comfort of enjoying a meal while immersing myself in the restaurant's atmosphere and culinary world. Less

I visited middle, located at the eastern end of Kitakujō Bridge in Kyoto.It had been a while since my last visit, as I had to cancel due to my mother's passing last year.This charming French restaurant is housed in a remodeled former residence of the Italian consul along the Kamo River.*Note: Many refer to it as the Italian Embassy or Consulate, but I want to clarify that it is indeed the Kamo River, not the Kamogawa.*Owner-chef Mr. Fujio shows little interest in promotion; his focus is on creating a space where guests can enjoy conversations through food, making it a comfortable environment. This is why he chose not to create a trendy counter-style restaurant with a live atmosphere.*I personally love the close proximity to the chef and the lively counter experience!* Chef Fujio has a unique background; he studied abroad in the UK from his first year of high school and initially considered becoming a businessman after entering a university in Paris. A turning point came when he started working part-time at the two-star restaurant "Passage 53" under Chef Sato in Paris, awakening his passion for the depth of cooking.He gained invaluable experience at the three-star restaurant "Mirazur" in France, led by Chef Mauro, who was ranked the best restaurant in the world. In 2016, he won the RED U-35 Gold Egg award, and in 2018, he became the first Japanese chef to win the San Pellegrino Young Chef competition.However, feeling the need to further elevate his skills as a Japanese chef, he sought to learn the essence of Japanese cuisine and trained under Chef Kiyama from Wakuden.I believe that the influence of Chef Kiyama has led to the innovative French cuisine with a touch of Japanese aesthetics at middle. After work, he would often go out to eat and discuss ideas with Chef Kiyama.He has also succeeded in deepening his dishes by self-studying fermentation.◆ Here’s the lineup of dishes crafted with great care by Chef Fujio on this day:○ Cedar Sprout Fermented Carbonated Drink Starting with a refreshing tea made from cedar essence to cool the body.● Snap Peas and Funazushi Rice Tart A surprising yet delicious combination of peas and funazushi rice.● Gazpacho Chef's signature gazpacho served in a hollowed-out watermelon, perfectly balanced with young chicken, water shield, large clams, and white clams.● Cherry Salmon The vibrant cherry salmon from Hokkaido offers a rich and delightful flavor.● Bamboo Shoots Aged premium bamboo shoots from Kishiwada, enjoyed with olive and southern French tapenade sauce.● Flower Zucchini and Fava Beans Deliciously stuffed and fried flower zucchini with pork mince.● Fried White Sweetfish and Udo Tempura A dish directly taught by Chef Kiyama, featuring sweetfish fried to perfection, paired with a white miso and new onion fermentation sauce.● Grilled Pork I was recommended rabbit, but since both my friend and I are not fond of it, they kindly changed it to pork. The sweetness of the grilled free-range pork paired with egg yolk sabayon sauce was wonderful.● Zucchini and Risotto The rich zucchini paired with fragrant onion and carrot vegetable consomme was exceptional.◇ Loquat Sorbet For dessert, I indulged in a delightful loquat sorbet that I love.◇ Coffee and Freshly Baked Rice Bran Financier ◉ Assorted Japanese Sake and Wine Once again, I was moved by the deliciousness of the dishes.Fermentation, Japanese-style French cuisine, innovation… there are mixed opinions, but I am captivated by the unique culinary world of Fujio.Each time, the dishes and sauces are different, yet the high level of completion and variety never cease to amaze me.Even though it was my first time tasting these dishes, as I continued to eat, I felt a blend of novelty and nostalgia, leading me to a state of culinary bliss.Thank you for the wonderful meal! ☆*The name "middle" signifies the fleeting moment of nature's ever-changing beauty. Chef Fujio reflects on the ingredients he encounters each day. The dishes he creates from inspiration provide imagination, surprise, and emotion.*◎ The omakase course is available for JPY 25,000 (excluding tax) for both lunch and dinner. Less