Foodle Reviews
There is a particular kind of restaurant discourse that does more harm than good. Not because the restaurant is bad, but because the noise around it becomes so loud that it distorts what is actually on the plate.
Middle Child sits squarely in that space.
The room is warm and bookish. Mustard yellow, soft wood, shelves of cookbooks and bottles. It feels calm by design rather than by affectation. The food follows suit. Familiar flavours, cooked with care. A sour cream and onion dip that knows... More
There is a particular kind of restaurant discourse that does more harm than good. Not because the restaurant is bad, but because the noise around it becomes so loud that it distorts what is actually on the plate.
Middle Child sits squarely in that space.
The room is warm and bookish. Mustard yellow, soft wood, shelves of cookbooks and bottles. It feels calm by design rather than by affectation. The food follows suit. Familiar flavours, cooked with care. A sour cream and onion dip that knows exactly what it is. A hand cut steak tartare that is assertive, toothsome, and very nearly excellent. At its best, some of the dishes here are among the best of their kind I have eaten in Dubai.
Does everything delight? Non.
There are moments where things lean one dimensional. A steak that tips too sweet. A soft serve whose idea is more compelling than its execution. None of this feels terminal, or even surprising. This is a young restaurant, opened by a first time restaurateur, finding its rhythm in public. That is not a flaw. It is a process.
What interests me more is the conversation around it.
Middle Child is often spoken about in absolutes. As a revelation. As a standard bearer. As something that must be adored rather than discussed. That does the restaurant no favours. It sets expectations that are almost impossible to meet and leaves little room for the more interesting, more generous truth.
Which is that this is a good restaurant with flickers of a very good one. Bistro adjacent cooking that values restraint over spectacle. Plates that do not beg to be photographed before they are eaten. Service that is warm, human, and genuinely joyful.
Strip away the mythology and what remains is far more compelling. A place that understands its scale. Knows its audience. And does not shout to be heard.
In a city that often mistakes excess for excellence, that quiet confidence matters.
Would I go back? Yes. Almost certainly for lunch.
Sometimes the most interesting restaurants are not the loudest ones, but the ones that reward attention rather than appetite alone.
The full review is now live on EatGoSee and on my Substack. You can read it via the link in my profile. Less
The middle child, (according to ChatGPT), usually creates their own identity, acts as a natural mediator, stays adaptable, reads people well, and is quietly overlooked.
Let’s see how Middle Child in Alserkal stacks up.
Independent:-
Not just a restaurant, but also a well-stocked bookstore, showcasing dozens of culinary titles - from McNally’s I Regret Almost Everything to Lopez’s The Food Lab.
Add to that an eclectic range of gourmet pantry items with quirky handwritten labels and... More
The middle child, (according to ChatGPT), usually creates their own identity, acts as a natural mediator, stays adaptable, reads people well, and is quietly overlooked.
Let’s see how Middle Child in Alserkal stacks up.
Independent:-
Not just a restaurant, but also a well-stocked bookstore, showcasing dozens of culinary titles - from McNally’s I Regret Almost Everything to Lopez’s The Food Lab.
Add to that an eclectic range of gourmet pantry items with quirky handwritten labels and suggested recipes, and you start to see the shape of its personality.
The menu is actually quite simple, almost café fare - a contrast to the abundance of culinary inspiration living on the bookshelves.
A club sandwich, cheesecake, roasted potato salad, Labneh Yuzukosho - comfort food that did the job - not trying to impress, just doing its thing. Totes independent.
Diplomatic:-
Middle Child was full of the most eclectic mix of diners - from the conservative to the flamboyant, a full spectrum of religions, cultures, professions, and beliefs - as if we were all about to star in a Benetton advert.
Only a true middle child could smooth tensions, connect opposites and read people this well.
Empathetic:
The soundtrack alone told you Middle Child understood people - a blend of lo-fi groove, soul, and cosmic cool that dialed itself in perfectly to the room’s collective mood.
The Serb and I were showing our age; one of us (can’t remember who, but it wasn’t me) commented on how loud it was. Then, in a brief pause between tracks, we discovered they also own the world’s loudest blender.
Adaptable:
7 p.m. and Middle Child was full. Maybe people waiting for the traffic to die down, but Middle Child’s ability to respond with the day is undeniable.
Coffee stop, counter lunch, makeshift office, dinner with friends, retail browsing, quiet read, quick takeaway - Middle Child has found the sweet spot.
Overlooked:
If middle children grow up fearing they’ll be overlooked, Middle Child at AlSerkal can rest easy. A cool, casual little spot, with bags of personality and charisma - no one’s overlooking this one. Less
Lunch at @middlechildmiddlechild @alserkalavenue 🇦🇪♥️
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A lovely new spot in Dubai. Part eatery, part grocer and part book shop - this casual little shop is already a new favourite of mine. The menu is clean and un-fussy, with lots of light plates on the there from fresh dips, salads and crudo’s to steak, sandwiches and pasta. It’s far from the standard dishes you would expect though, everything is done with their own style and finesse. To start, the onion dip... More
Lunch at @middlechildmiddlechild @alserkalavenue 🇦🇪♥️
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A lovely new spot in Dubai. Part eatery, part grocer and part book shop - this casual little shop is already a new favourite of mine. The menu is clean and un-fussy, with lots of light plates on the there from fresh dips, salads and crudo’s to steak, sandwiches and pasta. It’s far from the standard dishes you would expect though, everything is done with their own style and finesse. To start, the onion dip with ritz crackers was knockout. I hope they keep this one on as a permanent feature - creamy, sweet and balanced. The sea bass crudo was clean and sharp - a tasty dish which I would love even more if it had some heat. The steak tartare was tasty too - well seasoned, cubed tenderloin with all the usual accompaniments. The grilled strip loin with jammy onions was my favourite main - a nice idea that I’ll definitely be iterating at home. Loved the deep onion sauce and the blushing pink strip. Pappardelle bolognese was rich and well prepared too albeit a little soft on the pasta - love that they sell the bolognese sauce in the shop though, nice touch. Finished off with the banoffee pie and soft serve - both excellent. These guys are off to a great start! #notoriousfoodie 🙅🏽♂️
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#dubai #mydubai #visitdubai #dubailife #dubai🇦🇪 #uae #dubaifood Less
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Address
AlSerkal Avenue warehouse 13A - القوز - دبي - United Arab Emirates
Hours
Tuesday: 12:30 - 22:30
Wednesday: 12:30 - 22:30
Thursday: 12:30 - 22:30
Friday: 12:30 - 23:00
Saturday: 12:30 - 23:00
Sunday: 12:30 - 22:30
