Dinner at 波濤

Dinner at 波濤

at Hatou on 8 January 2024
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These days, where "omakase" has become a verb in America, the distinctions between what are "typical" sushi versus kappo has become blurred. Pre-2010, "omakase" in America (if it was even called that) might mean you were basically served part of a typical kaiseki course - everything from a hassun plate to owan - before sushi started hitting the counter. In the past 7 or 8 years, this has evolved a bit. The bites are smaller and require less cooking, and we call them "tsumami". But they rarely resemble sushi tsumami in Japan, which are almost without fail raw items with one or two ingredients, and maybe a piece of grilled fish.
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In that vein, Kumagiri-san's tsumami might look typical to a well-heeled American diner. To a Japanese diner, however, they are exactly what a kappo or kaiseki restaurant would serve - a somewhat shocking choice for a sushiya. Indeed, ebi-imo ankake and kani served with its own roe and dashi are washoku staples in winter. Even the buri prep - cut into fat matchsticks and tossed in grated daikon - is something you're much more likely to find at a kappo meal.
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The kicker here is that these items are so tastefully calibrated that these serve admirably as appetizers for a sushi course. The flavoring is light, the portions are modest, and the natural flavors of the ingredients shine through. It is really delicious, without distracting at all from the fact that this is still a sushi restaurant. In the US @chefderekwilcox is probably the only one who was able to pull off a similar feat, drawing on his training at both washoku restaurants and sushiya.