(March 22)
In an ideal world I would have the superpower to relocate chefs & restaurants at my will. So César Ramirez would suddenly find himself cooking at a counter in my Mum’s second bedroom in Solihull, my favourite struggling misunderstood chefs would be gently relocated to more ‘money no object’ locales, not you understand completely removing them from their terroir, but say Dina would now be on the shores of lake Garda rather than buried in an urban backwater.
It seems that someone has already beaten me to it & taken one of my favourite restaurants on the planet, Frantzén, & gently placed it, or something very like it, in the stunningly beautiful mountains of the Austrian Alps in the ski resort of Lech. The term ‘an Alpine Frantzén’ has been used to refer to Rote Wand Chef’s Table & I think it is well earned. To be clear, the term is being used in an incredibly complimentary way & is not implying any copycat-ing.
This meal was another incredible highlight of our March/April tour. We stayed for two nights in the beautiful Rote Wand Gourmet hotel and enjoyed meals at Klösterle, Rote Wand Stube the more casual offering at the hotel & of course the Chef’s Table restaurant where chef @maxnatmessnig & partner @_bekahroberts gave a masterclass in hospitality & cooking. The meal started with a parade of delicious snacks that we enjoyed in the downstairs small open kitchen. Then the ingredients of the evening are presented, a la Frantzén & just about every other restaurant on the planet now, before heading up to a horseshoe counter very much like that at Frantzén.
This was a fantastic meal that I would gladly jump on a plane to experience again. I recommend that you visit Rote Wand even though Max has now moved on. I urge you to visit him in Munich at @alois_restaurant_dallmayr This was a strong two star meal in my opinion and surely stars await him in Munich
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Michelin Guide -
OAD - 33
W50B - ‘Discovery’
Best Chef Awards - New candidate 2023 Max Natmessnig
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