🇯🇵 Kataori 🇯🇵
Two Principles Behind Every Plate at Kataori
片折料理背後的兩大原則
1️⃣ Subtraction
Kataori cooks by taking things away. No stacked plates, no loud sauce, no technique waving for attention. Chef Takuya Kataori stops when the ingredient can speak alone. The proof is the first dashi: Makurazaki katsuobushi shaved at the counter, kombu steeped in Noto’s Fujinose water, no added salt. The cup is pale gold and almost plain to look at. Then the taste lengthens — clean sea, quiet smoke, umami that does not spike and does not fade. That sip becomes the night’s standard. O-wan, yakimono, shokuji: each has to be as honest as the broth, or it feels like too much.
2️⃣ The land, fetched by hand
The other half of the philosophy is not a metaphor. It is a morning route. Born in Himi, he still goes to the ports and hills of Himi, Noto, and Suzu himself. What arrives at the eight-seat counter is what that day allowed. Winter crab is not a cameo; it becomes soup, dumpling, shabu, miso, rice. Buri, ika, and nodoguro are chosen that morning, not locked to a printed menu. The last rice is Koshihikari grown by his father. Season here is not garnish on a fixed sequence. Season is the sequence. You are not eating “Kanazawa cuisine” as a style. You are eating a coastline, a market, and a calendar, reduced until only they remain.
1️⃣ 減法
片折是靠減法做料理的。沒有堆疊的盤飾、沒有喧嘩的醬汁、沒有賣弄的技法。始於第一道出汁：枕崎鰹節在櫃檯前現刨，昆布浸過能登藤之瀨的水，不加鹽。杯子是淺金色的，看起來幾乎素得過分。然後味道才慢慢拉開——乾淨的海、安靜的煙燻、不會衝上來也不會很快散去的鮮味。那一口，成了整晚的標準。お椀、燒物、食事：每一道都必須和這碗出汁一樣直率，否則就會顯得太多。
2️⃣ 尊重風土
片折大將生於冰見，至今仍親自走向冰見、能登、珠洲的漁港與山野。送到八席板前上的，只是那天被允許出現的東西。冬天的蟹不是客串，它會變成湯、肉丸、涮鍋、蟹味噌、飯。鰤、烏賊、喉黑是當天早晨才選定的，不是鎖死在印刷菜單上。最後的飯，是父親種的越光米。在這裡，季節不是固定流程上的點綴。季節就是流程本身。你品嚐的不是一種名叫「金澤料理」的風格，而是金澤的海岸、漁市場與風土。
🏢: 3-36 Namikimachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0928, Japan
⚖️: 50,000 yen
