Most tasting menus format try to at least on paper start light and build in heaviness then reach a crescendo .Jason Tan @restauranteuphoria has certainly succeeded in doing so .
After 6 years heading up Corner House to much acclaim , Chef Jason opened his first restaurant in the midst of COVID . His cuisine is self titled as gastro botanica , the restaurant is an ode to the onion and he uses vegetables as the driver of all his sauces using a variation of the extraction techniques pioneered by Yannick Alleno .
I didn’t love the first 2 dishes , but the remainder of the menu was outstanding.
OYSTER
Dragonfruit | Horseradish | Cucumber | Dill
The menu starts with a classics European pairing of flavours , the dragonfruit jelly seems a little out of place .
OIGNON JAMBOREE
5 alliums | Oscietra Prestige Caviar | Légumes essence
Onion jamboree is the seemingly self installed signature dish , I actually thought it was the weakest dish on the menu . I did enjoy the cevennes onion and smoked eel parfait , however the onion flavour on most of the other elements was somewhat muted .
MOCHISHIRE “SOUPE À L’OIGNON” - this bread and onion course however is a home run . Mochi / Yorkshire pudding hybrid is brilliant and when used a dipping vessel into a terrific and rich onion soup/dip it’s even better .
GOMA ROYALE
Foie gras | Tarragon | Whisky | 2 Miso | Légumes vin blanc - chawanmushi amped up with foie gras and whisky , this had lovely depth of flavour .
CARROTTE GATEAU “SINGAPOUR”
Black truffle | Chai poh | Caper | Beurre noisette-
Really enjoyed the sauce here with black truffles and capers , plenty of Unami and this sauce would be super versatile.
RISO
Mirugai | Parmesan | Buckwheat
Risoni pasta with Japanese geoduck , this was super comforting , would smash a large bowl of this anytime .
IBERIAN PORK
Carrot | Yuzu kosho | Légumes demi glacé.
The pork jowl cooked two ways still had plenty of integrity , i probably would have preferred a fattier slower cooked version , but both the carrot elements and the vegetable demi glacé kept interest in the dish high .
KIWI
Fromage | Mint | Lemon -pitch perfect pre dessert
EVOCAO 72%
Pei pa koa | Mint | Amaretto. -
