“Steirereck was born in 1970, the same year as Heinz Reitbauer, who would one day run it. He is exactly as old as the house he directs, proof of two histories that live as one. His parents, Heinz and Margarethe, both Styrians, had opened a tavern on a corner of Vienna‘s third district and named it after the place they came from: Steirereck, the Styrian corner. Big plates, small prices, the food of southern Austria served to people who missed it — a concept that held for decades.
The son took the opposite road to his parents. Altötting, the Obauers at Werfen, and then the wandering years in the kitchens that then ran Europe: Chapel at Mionnay, Mosimann in London, Robuchon in Paris. He came back with another idea in his head, the modern dream of French nouvelle cuisine. In 2001, after Pogusch, Heinz and his wife, Birgit, swapped houses with his parents and moved to Vienna; in 2005, they moved in for good into a glass pavilion in the middle of the Stadtpark. The early years were hard, the guides marking them down, the press hesitant before the novelty and the nerve of it. The couple had to rebuild, alone, a reputation his parents had spent three decades raising. They did it their way, and with a division that holds to this day: he in the kitchen, she in the room.“ - more in flavorsandsenses.com
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