On a Sunday that was neither too hot nor too chilly, just perfect for a jacket and pants, my wife and I woke up at our usual time and took the train to Tatebayashi City in Gunma Prefecture.What comes to mind when people think of Tatebayashi varies greatly. Some might think of the factories of Nisshin OilliO or Calpis, while others might recall the memorial hall of Chiaki Mukai. However, for us, there is only one reason to visit Tatebayashi: Sushi Obana. In fact, we have never come to Tatebayashi for any other purpose.This time marks our visit after about nine months. I’ve lost count of how many times we’ve been here. This little journey, which takes two and a half hours from our home, has become an annual tradition, occurring once or twice a year, and it has been going on for about five years now. For us, it feels like a pilgrimage. The term "Tatebayashi Mairi" fits perfectly.Sushi Obana is renowned among sushi lovers as one of the top restaurants in the Kanto region, with regulars not only from Japan but also from overseas, making it a somewhat intimidating place. The signature dish, the Ikura (salmon roe) gunkan, is famously said to be something that no skilled chef can replicate, but that’s not the only remarkable aspect of this restaurant. The quality of the tuna from Yamazaki, the white fish delivered by the legendary fisherman Koichi Mura from Naruto, and the dishes and desserts made with locally sourced vegetables by the proprietress are all exceptional. There’s no weak point anywhere; it’s overwhelmingly impressive in every aspect.Usually, we order the full course at market price, but recently, due to the shrinking of our stomachs with age, we chose the "Short Course" (JPY 25,000, excluding tax) for the first time. Even so, it was more than enough to satisfy us, which is the amazing part about Obana. ● 11 appetizers ★ 9 pieces of nigiri Additional rolls ● Pureed lettuce from Tatebayashi with turnip ● Hon-Ara sashimi ● Grilled bonito ● Sea urchin parfait ● Chawanmushi with konoko ● Simmered scallops with aonori ● Marinated raw shirasu ● Aji stick sushi ● Ankimo with ponzu ★ Isaki ★ Kohada ★ Ikura gunkan ★ Akami ★ Tuna back fillet ★ Torigai (2 pieces) ★ Sweet shrimp ★ Shako ★ Gourd sushi Additional: Tekka maki Dessert First and foremost, I was deeply impressed by the sushi rice. It was firm, with a perfect balance of acidity and saltiness, and the moment it touched my mouth, I thought, "Ah, this is it," as my whole body recalled the taste. Throughout our visits, the acidity has varied, and the saltiness has been adjusted, but today’s balance was truly the essence of Obana. It’s easy to believe that sushi exists just to complement the rice.When discussing sushi, the conversation often turns to "Which topping was the best?" But at Obana, the rice itself is fundamentally outstanding. The variety and origin of the rice, the soaking time, the timing of cooking, the selection of vinegar and salt, and the time from cooking to when it’s formed into sushi—all of these factors are meticulously calculated. The order in which the toppings are placed is even adjusted according to the temperature of the rice. It’s rare to find sushi that centers around the rice like this.Of course, the handling of the toppings is also extraordinary. It’s not just about freshness; it’s about ensuring that the best qualities are highlighted when it’s made into nigiri or served as an appetizer. Where effort is needed, it’s applied thoroughly, and where simplicity is required, it’s executed with elegance. I’ve learned through my visits to Obana that the technical skill and decision-making regarding how to handle the ingredients are everything. I believe that the trial and error that Chef Obana has accumulated over the years has led to the current situation of "no new reservations."Today, we also heard some delightful stories from the chef and the proprietress: "Our 4-year-old grandchild ate the tuna from Yamazaki and said, 'It’s soft.'" (A vocabulary that even professionals rarely use!) "While on a trip to Hawaii, we encountered Yamazaki’s president, who looked like a rock star, while shopping." "Some photos from a TV shoot are owned by IKKO from Shinagawa. The shoot took place at 7 AM on a day off, and high school students were screaming in front of the restaurant." "Although much was cut from the broadcast, the negotiating AD, Katsumata, was a really nice person." The chef and proprietress create a space that is sincere, meticulous, yet charming, and I sincerely hope to continue enjoying it for a long time to come.Thank you very much, Chef and Proprietress, for another wonderful experience. I look forward to our next visit on October 28. It was a great meal.Total bill for today: Approximately JPY 62,000 for two.
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