Hida Kisetsu Ryori Sakana (飛騨季節料理 肴) Takayama

I visited Hida Kisetsu Ryori Sakana for the first time in four years. This Michelin one-star restaurant, featured in the Gault & Millau guide, is a representative of Hida's Japanese cuisine. The chef personally forages for wild vegetables and catches river fish, creating dishes that are deeply connected to the natural environment of Hida. This year, the warm weather arrived early, making it a lucky timing as the wild vegetables are just about ready this week.The interior has a bar-like counter space. You can enjoy sake paired with the dishes while listening to the chef's unique explanations. The sake pairing is quite interesting. For the wild vegetables, a light sake with around 14% alcohol is served, while a robust 10-year aged Daiginjo sake is paired with meat and Hoba miso, showcasing a thoughtful approach to pairing.At the end, we enjoyed freshly brewed tea with spirits, chilled with good ice in a wine glass. This playful touch was delightful.The dishes we had included:- 20 types of wild vegetables: such as Japanese knotweed, butterbur, bent bamboo, Kaga white bamboo shoots, kogomi, bracken, and more.- Water dumplings with 8 types of wild vegetables: including bamboo shoots, butterbur, wild garlic, and more.- Tempura of wild vegetables: including taranome, butterbur, and bracken.- A refreshing salad with wild vegetables.- Hida beef marinated in sake lees.- Ishinagi fish with wild vegetable sauce: It was surprising to find such a rare deep-sea fish in the mountains. This large fish is said to come up to about 150m during spawning season.- Butter-fried butterbur and miso-fried taranome: I vividly remember enjoying these two dishes four years ago. They were delicious.- Cold chawanmushi (savory egg custard) with wild vegetables.- Hoba miso with wild vegetables: including kogomi, butterbur, and wild garlic, paired with the robust 10-year aged Daiginjo sake.- Yamagaya nabe (hot pot): made with natural iwana (rock trout) broth, fried iwana, and various wild vegetables.- Knotweed ice cream with strawberries and kiwi: This ice cream is made only with knotweed and sugar, without any milk, creating an unbelievable texture. It’s not gelato but true ice cream.Tabelog rating: 3.92, overall rating: 4.02 ⭐️⭐️⭐️Budget: JPY 26,000 (wild vegetable course + Hida beef addition, including sake)Reservations: Online reservations are available, but calling is faster. Less

The owner-chef of Hida Kisetsu Ryori Sakana is Mr. Hayao Imai. (Instagram: @takayama_sakana) *Reservations can be made via phone, Ikkyu Restaurant, or the official website.Chef Imai was born in January 1960 in Gero City, Gifu Prefecture, and grew up surrounded by the natural beauty of Hida Takayama. After graduating from a culinary school in Kansai, he trained for about ten years in Kyoto and Osaka before returning to his hometown to open Hida Kisetsu Ryori Sakana.Surrounded by seasonal ingredients such as wild vegetables, fresh river fish, and various mushrooms, he aims to share these flavors with many people. He serves seasonal dishes made from natural ingredients, hoping to create memorable moments for his guests.**Menu** *Wild Vegetable and Hida Beef Course***[7 Types of Wild Vegetables]** - Itadori - Koshia-bura - Bamboo Shoots - Fuki - Kogomi - Fuki with Miso **[Wild Vegetable Dumplings]** **[Hida Beef]** - Smoked Salmon - Roast Beef **[Wild Vegetable Tempura]** - Udo - Kogomi - Itadori - Nanten-hagi **[Hida Beef Steak]** - Inside Round - Rump - Strip Loin **[Ishinagi with Sauce]** **[Sautéed Koshia-bura]** **[Stir-fried Tara-no-me with Miso]** **[Wild Vegetable and Bamboo Shoot Miso Soup and Bamboo Rice]**~A few thoughts~ It seems the owner personally goes into the mountains to gather wild vegetables, allowing guests to enjoy a wide variety of fresh ingredients and unique cooking methods. The sautéed Koshia-bura was particularly exquisite.The owner is very kind, and it’s no surprise that there are many repeat customers despite the location. Less

On May 5, 2026, I made a reservation through Hitosara (a booking site) 20 days in advance and entered the restaurant at 17:00.◆ Hida Beef Shabu-Shabu Course using the highest grade A-5 Hida beef, priced at JPY 16,000 per person.- Seasonal Appetizers The wild vegetables were cooked to perfection and tasted delightful.- Main Dish: Hida Beef Shabu-Shabu Prepared by the chef with just the right touch, served with Sakana's special broth and two types of dipping sauces. The meat's umami and sweetness spread gently in my mouth. It was incredibly tender, not greasy at all, and I could eat it all in one go.- Zosui (rice porridge) Delicious with a gentle flavor.- Pickles - Dessert Refreshing fruits.I was able to enjoy a pairing of drinks that complemented the dishes. You can really feel the chef's dedication in every detail of the food, and everything was delicious. I would love to visit again for the wild vegetable course. Less