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An Insiders Guide to Eating Out in Madrid
XtemeFoodies Insider Guides
Welcome to XtremeFoodies first of many insider guides where you can enjoy local and regional specialties unique to a city. Local foods are a wonderful gateway to discovering a city and this list is a Michelin free, “foam free” zone with less expensive, real food for real people. If you want main stream, fine dining options in Madrid there are many guides easily accessible that overlap with each other. You don’t need another guide from XF so here are delicious spots that the others overlook that will add deep, local flavors to your visit.
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Botin is the oldest (continuous) restaurant in the world and indeed the “Holm” oak fire in the oven has never gone out. The ancient ambience is stunning and appetizers like scrambled eggs with Morcilla, Setas, Judia Beans and the essential garlicky eels are highly recommended - but the whole suckling pig is the main event. The Filipino pit minder is a Jedi master producing a skin that is crackling with super juicy meat glistening inside. The prized piggy is floating in 1/2 inch of piglet juices (most of the fat is ladled off) with bay leaves, paprika, and tarragon infused wine all served in a giant cast iron pan (boat?). The whole piglet is the way to go - not 1/4 and 1/2 portions. The 3 dimensions of crackling skin, moist and juicy meat and indescribably delicious juices sends the Botin lechòn into the hall of fame. Waiter Luis (Pictured) has been there since 1991.
My favorite restaurant in Madrid
Part museum and part restaurant - how has this restaurant been overlooked by the guides? The walls and rooms are dripping with history. They say that much of the history of Spain has been plotted between the elegance of these walls since 1839 including dictatorchips, coups, overthrows of kings as well as the advance of politicians, republics and new dynasties. This is the backdrop to this essential and beloved restaurant. From their website:
Lhardy's menu brings together classic dishes that are part of the history of Madrid gastronomy, such as the legendary Lhardy stew, croquettes, Wellington sirloin, soufflé, and new creations such as the sole Evaristo in Champagne or the wild grouper with squid noddles and wild asparagus.
A visit to Madrid must include the Prado museum and Lhardy restaurant.
If you lived in Madrid this would be your go-to spot where the kitchen takes Spanish classics and updates them in a satisfying way. Order everything to share and pair with the excellent Spanish wine list (ask for the secret list). The rabbit ribs are a “showstopper” as well as potato tortilla with artichokes.
Callos a la Madrileno is the defining and polarising dish of Madrid. Callos are tasty but some will never tolerate the texture of tripe. For fans, however, it is one of the most incredible experiences in the culinary capital of Spain. There are plenty of places to enjoy this specialty but for those in the know, there is only one destination: Fogòn. This is a favorite of footballers and foodies alike.
This wonderfully restored 17th-century posada (inn) is a local landmark. It is on the site of one of the oldest inns in the city (dating back to 1642). This street used to be the city limits back then, and so all along this street “Posadas” were created where travelers used to stay. In the 1980s the building was falling apart, and the current owner D. Félix Colomo bought it and restored it. The atmosphere is formal and the decoration is sombre with heavy timber and brickwork. This place specializes in traditional cuisines, like Madrilenian stew cooked in a clay pot over coals and ashes of straw and oak logs or roast lamb cooked in a clay pot in the old Arab oven, Start with the delicious sopa de ajo (garlic soup).
6 Charolés Restaurante $$$$
GM Selected
OAD Casual 677
C/ Floridablanca, 24, 28200 San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, Spain
Cocido, along with Callos, is the "other" dish named after Madrid. There are many places to try this massive banquet like the elegant version at L'Hardy or the more accessible versions at La Bola and Taberna Pedraza in Madrid but, for the ultimate cocido experience drive an hour to the beautiful town of Escorial with its Unesco-listed monastery and dine at Charolès restaurante. The heart and soul of this feast are garbanzo beans used to make the broth but the main event is the procession of vegetables, meats, bones and sausages that emerge with 26 ingredients on nine platters in three rounds. The ceremony at Charolès is cited as the best in the world by chef Jose Andres and the newspaper El Mundo and we are sure you will be "de acuerdo". Featured on Monday, Wednesday and Friday with a required pre-order.
This competes with Taberna Laredo for “maravillosa”. Start at the super charming stand up bar in front for clams and a Vermouth before heading into the back for a wonderful a la carte menu of local classics.
The emotional favorite for Fried Salt Cod is definitely Casa Labra which has been open since 1860 but the piled-up platter served production line style breaks the pieces underneath. Also the pieces on top steam the cod you get at the bottom of the platter. Relative newcomer Casa Revuelta (1966) serves even fatter pieces each lovingly set on your platelet. The batter is impossibly crunchy and the cod is impossibly juicy and the beer is perfectly Your heart might be with Labra but your palette will be with Revuelta. Try both.
Casa Amadeo is a historic and iconic place in Madrid, located in the flea market (in the middle of Plaza Cascorro). This place is famous for snails, a classic Madrid dish. In fact, the name of this place is literally: "The Snails". It's been open since 1942, and the owner Amadeo (early 90s and famous in Madrid) has been running it since then. Now his kids and grandkids are in charge. They have a big pot of snails behind the bar and scoop them out from there. They are a little bit spicy. They are popular for their signature dish, the Callos (13,00 €) Callos (13,00 €) and -You can also try Torreznos - fried pork belly. A delicate piece of advice - the owner is sooo charming…go before he retires.
The “Grandmother’s House’ is an ageless, popular place, which recently passed its centenary. The traditional order here is a chato (small glass) of the heavy, sweet El Abuelo red wine (made in Toledo) and the heavenly sizzling prawns in garlic. They cook more than 200kg of prawns here on a good day. This is a cornerstone visit for anyone who cares about Madrid cuisine.
Oreja is not for everyone but Madrileños are crazy for their pigs' ears. And if you love ear you are in luck that the two most famous places are one in front of the other. Many celebrate Casa Toni maybe because you really get a pure ear. At Oreja de Jaime the ear is crispier and beautifully seasoned - a bit of potato helps it go down smooth. Think "elevated" ear.
Everyone likes cheesecake - and foodies love the famous burnt “Basque” cheesecake from San Sebastian - but it’s time to move over and make way for Andalusian cheesecake at Colosimo. Chef Ricardo has made a version using Payoyo cheese from the “Sierra de Cadiz” - It has the classic dual dry/wet texture of the best cheesecakes but then two tweaks seal the deal: shaving a sheet of fluffy Payoyo and crumbling fresh baked, crunchy butter cookies on top for texture. The next time you are in Madrid - do not miss this cheesecake. XF declares it the best in the world. If you go…order the excellent tortilla first!
Breakfast time! Lucio Blazquez is Madrid's gastronomic royalty. He started working at the Meson de Segovia when he was 12 and then bought the restaurant in the 70's and renamed it Casa Lucio. It was here that he popularised his grandmother's recipe "Huevos Estrellados". When Americans and Brits hear potatoes and eggs they ask WTF? But Lucio's broken eggs are so delicious that he opened a restaurant in front of Casa Lucio dedicated to his masterpiece. The potatoes and eggs are prepared separately and then the addition of chistorra sausages (often Jamon) takes it to the next level. Hungry foreigners can get a version for breakfast from 9;30 am at nearby "Los Rotos" but Madrileños come here for this delicacy at midday.
Ok - You have eaten all the good stuff - and now it is morning and there are no good breakfasts In Madrid - What do you do? Churros! and Hot Chocolate - Yeeeees!
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