Recommended bowl: Rich by night

Long known as a go-to spot for tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen, master Kuriyama-san first trained at Higashi-Ikebukuro Taishōken and Rokurinsha, two top level shops. The soup is made using pork bones, chicken carcasses and chicken feet, cooked ten hours or longer. Noodles are house-made and contain kombu powder. The menu changes slightly between day and night. At lunch the soup is served medium thick, and for dinner service extra thick. Originally open as Jindan in 2008, name changed to Kuriyama in 2011.