Ramen at Menya Shichisai (麺や七彩八丁堀店)

Ramen at Menya Shichisai (麺や七彩八丁堀店)

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Recommended bowl: Live noodle show

In July 2015, Menya Shichisai, the well-regarded ramen establishment co-created by restaurateurs Yoshihiko Fujii and Hiroaki Sakata, opened a second location in Hatchobori. The new Hatchobori branch prepares every batch of noodles by hand — AFTER the customer has placed their order. Handmade noodles aren't particularly uncommon in the Tokyo ramen game, but to make them made-to-order in view of the customers is awesome — especially if you're lucky enough to score one of the seats beside the noodle prep station.

The shop interior's wood and cream tones create a clean, contemporary impression. As you enter the shop, you'll notice the master working the noodles through a glass window at the far end of the counter. Each time an order is shouted in his direction, he grabs a ball of dough, adds flour, pounds it, flattens it with a roller, adds more flour, slaps the dough on a stationary cutting board and proceeds to slice out thin ribbons of noodle. He uses a knife that is ratcheted to move a certain distance with each stroke, so that the noodles are sliced with perfect consistency. Once cut and further floured, the master brings the noodles back to the board, and proceeds to pound, kneed, and squeeze them in the 'teuchi temomimen' style. Next, directly into the pot they go.

The soup is on par with the best kitakata ramen in town — a light, crisp shoyu, with an almost acidic twang to it. Negi, menma and luscious juicy chashu top it off. The thin-cut menma also have a nice freshness to them.

Nevertheless, and needless to say, it's really all about the noodles here. The 'teuchi temomimen' pounding technique gives them a slightly broad, wavy shape. They're cooked until the edges are a bit soft but the center of the noodle is still al dente. The result is a truly awesome texture and mouth feel.

8 / 10