Recommended bowl: Old school-style dbl soup

Master Gotou-san apprenticed at Higashi Ikebukuro Taishouken, a legendary Tokyo ramen shop that has been in operation since 1961. Perhaps that is why Gotou-san's bowls have such old-school homey appeal.

After many years in Ikebukurou, Gotou abruptly closed in April 2014. But to the delight of its many loyal fans, the shop re-launched in a new location in Komagome three months later. Little changed during the hiatus. The new shop still has the lived-in, homey vibe of the original, and the ramen remains straightforward and soul satisfying.

The food here is nothing flashy. The soup is a light tonkotsu gyokai — a subtle blend of fish, chicken and pork. The egg, chashu and menma toppings aim for humble classicism rather than gourmet technique. The medium-thick noodles are house-made and taste like it. Whether you order the ramen, wontonmen or tsukemen, the sense of balance and timelessness in your bowl should impress you.

Family owned and operated, Gotou's only staff are master Gotou-san, his brother and wife. Many of the customers are longtime regulars.