Located in rural Kanazawa, Les Tonnelles bears all the markings of a special gastronomy experience. Sitting on an enormous farmland, the building is a stunning design of architect Shigeru Ban. It is hard not to feel awe while walking through the entrance covered in vineyards, turning your gaze from the grapes hanging like pearls overhead only to be soaked in the warm wood tones of the gorgeous interiors.
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This setting allows them to promise a true farm-to-table experience putting local vegetables at the heart of their course. What is special about Les Tonnelles is that this whole experience never feels gimmicky. This is only made possible because they manage to deliver as great an experience with what is on the plate, as what is around it.
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The man in the kitchen is a young Mexican chef, cooking French cuisine with local Japanese ingredients. This unique background expresses itself in an eclectic menu drawing on various influences. And yet, these are weaved together purposefully to create dishes that feel grounded. Take the Sawara dish served with a delicious mole sauce. The sauce utilizes local vegetables and is more delicate than usual, sensibly pairing with the meaty sawara.
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The tomato salsa with corn tortilla is another great example of the chef playing to his strengths while still putting the vegetables to the forefront. In a lovely twist, the chef then presents a plate of okra and sazae topped with tosazu jelly - a dish that bears a uniquely Japanese sensibility, something you would expect to find at a Kappo. It is a delight to be able to enjoy these dishes as part of the same course.
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For the main, the Himi wagyu delivers an unforgettable punch of umami bolstered by the concentrated vegetable sauce, creating a dish that encapsulates the strengths of Les Tonnelles in an impressively simple manner. The drink pairing is a must and completely elevates the experience. The selection is diverse including a fruity Zibibbo wine and a homemade sparkling rose.
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Overall, Les Tonelles manages to deliver an incredible experience that makes excellent use of its unique setting. Here, substance underpins the medium to create a true destination restaurant. Less