Gusto Journals Japan

▪️弐ノ蔵 Ninokura (Sapporo)
▪️Sushi - Omakase Dinner Course: ¥18K

Japan's northernmost island Hokkaido is known for its abundance of prime-quality fresh seafood. Visiting the island's largest city Sapporo for the first time, I was eager to splurge on a sushi omakase to taste Hokkaido's coveted offerings. Thus, I headed to the six-seat counter of Ninokura, brimming with excitement. Expectations were high, and Ninokura surpassed them in a spectacular manner.
◾
The 2-hour course opened with 6 plates of otsumami, followed by 12 nigiri. The chef's unique sense of creativity without restraint permeated through the course. He used cheese, a quintessential Hokkaido ingredient yet an unorthodox one in sushi, 4 times in the course. Tossing a raw shirako (cod milt) in crumbs of panko and parmigiano, he created an umami layer to encase the impossible creaminess of the in-season ingredient which itself felt like I was eating the world's best burratta. The shirako then made a comeback as nigiri, this time slightly grilled and put on top of Hokkaido-made ricotta. A daring combination of milky textures to remarkable result.
◾
In another plate of creative otsumami, Meichidai and spinach were served in a unique butter dashi. The butter was used so expertly as to not disturb the soft mouthfeel of the dashi, while amplifying the flavor to perfectly complement the white meat fish. Such otsumami worked to showcase the chef's exceptional control over subtle flavors, which translated well into his nigiri.
◾
Innovative touches continued through the nigiri. The chef used a soldering iron to gently grill some of the pieces such as nodoguro and squid. Oyster from kushiro was injected with ponzu by a syringe to create one of the most thrilling pieces of the night. The shari relied on komezu and was superbly balanced in sourness and texture, neither too loose nor too firm.
◾
An austere ambience could have taken away from the experience but the chef was quite friendly and created an engaging experience. As it was only six people, it felt like a dinner party after we all had a few cups of sake. Overall, this was an unforgettable sushi experience for half the price you would pay in Tokyo. Less

▪️弐ノ蔵 Ninokura (Sapporo)
▪️Sushi - Omakase Dinner Course: ¥18K

Japan's northernmost island Hokkaido is known for its abundance of prime-quality fresh seafood. Visiting the island's largest city Sapporo for the first time, I was eager to splurge on a sushi omakase to taste Hokkaido's coveted offerings. Thus, I headed to the six-seat counter of Ninokura, brimming with excitement. Expectations were high, and Ninokura surpassed them in a spectacular manner.
◾
The 2-hour course opened with 6 plates of otsumami, followed by 12 nigiri. The chef's unique sense of creativity without restraint permeated through the course. He used cheese, a quintessential Hokkaido ingredient yet an unorthodox one in sushi, 4 times in the course. Tossing a raw shirako (cod milt) in crumbs of panko and parmigiano, he created an umami layer to encase the impossible creaminess of the in-season ingredient which itself felt like I was eating the world's best burratta. The shirako then made a comeback as nigiri, this time slightly grilled and put on top of Hokkaido-made ricotta. A daring combination of milky textures to remarkable result.
◾
In another plate of creative otsumami, Meichidai and spinach were served in a unique butter dashi. The butter was used so expertly as to not disturb the soft mouthfeel of the dashi, while amplifying the flavor to perfectly complement the white meat fish. Such otsumami worked to showcase the chef's exceptional control over subtle flavors, which translated well into his nigiri.
◾
Innovative touches continued through the nigiri. The chef used a soldering iron to gently grill some of the pieces such as nodoguro and squid. Oyster from kushiro was injected with ponzu by a syringe to create one of the most thrilling pieces of the night. The shari relied on komezu and was superbly balanced in sourness and texture, neither too loose nor too firm.
◾
An austere ambience could have taken away from the experience but the chef was quite friendly and created an engaging experience. As it was only six people, it felt like a dinner party after we all had a few cups of sake. Overall, this was an unforgettable sushi experience for half the price you would pay in Tokyo. Less

▪️Ristorante Da Fiore (Omotesando)
▪️Chef's Lunch Course (¥7700)

It is rare that a restaurant can convey a distinct sense of character through a multi-course meal, as effectively and coherently as Da Fiore does.
◾
Here, the philosophy of the chef is not advertised boastfully on social media or through excessive tableside storytelling. Rather, the ingredients are allowed to speak for themselves. The chef's versatile cooking techniques, the beautiful pottery in which the dishes are served, the subdued colors of the interior embroidered with the greenery of countless plants; they all seem consciously chosen as vessels to help the ingredients express themselves better.
◾
Indeed, the meal begins with the presentation of these ingredients in their raw form. Within the kaleidoscopic colors of numerous in-season vegetables, there are no A5 Wagyu or truffles to be found. This is a demonstration of the chef's confidence in the humblest of ingredients he procures, or rather in his ability to let these ingredients shine through his cooking.
◾
The dishes contain only minimal touches as to not distract from the core ingredients. The turnip soup is at its purest form, not even dashi is used. The kanburi is served in a pure kinkan sauce with gentle citrus, no salt is added. But no other plate expresses the chef's intentions better than the dish that consists solely of 6 different vegetables, all cooked to perfection. From the cauliflower to the radish, they are rendered at their most ideal, as if they jumped straight out of Plato's Realm of Forms.
◾
The chef doesn't shy away from meat dishes either. The main dish of deer is cooked exquisitely and served with a gentle balsamic sauce & abundance of herbs that undercut the gaminess perfectly.
◾
Besides being delicious, all the dishes in the course simply feel good for the body and the soul. Even the risotto is executed in such a way, with the genius addition of asparagus and lily bulbs, that it does not feel heavy at all.
◾
In this restaurant, the chef cooks with utmost respect for his ingredients, and for his customers. That, is the distinct character of Ristorante Da Fiore. Less

▪️Ristorante Da Fiore (Omotesando)
▪️Chef's Lunch Course (¥7700)

It is rare that a restaurant can convey a distinct sense of character through a multi-course meal, as effectively and coherently as Da Fiore does.
◾
Here, the philosophy of the chef is not advertised boastfully on social media or through excessive tableside storytelling. Rather, the ingredients are allowed to speak for themselves. The chef's versatile cooking techniques, the beautiful pottery in which the dishes are served, the subdued colors of the interior embroidered with the greenery of countless plants; they all seem consciously chosen as vessels to help the ingredients express themselves better.
◾
Indeed, the meal begins with the presentation of these ingredients in their raw form. Within the kaleidoscopic colors of numerous in-season vegetables, there are no A5 Wagyu or truffles to be found. This is a demonstration of the chef's confidence in the humblest of ingredients he procures, or rather in his ability to let these ingredients shine through his cooking.
◾
The dishes contain only minimal touches as to not distract from the core ingredients. The turnip soup is at its purest form, not even dashi is used. The kanburi is served in a pure kinkan sauce with gentle citrus, no salt is added. But no other plate expresses the chef's intentions better than the dish that consists solely of 6 different vegetables, all cooked to perfection. From the cauliflower to the radish, they are rendered at their most ideal, as if they jumped straight out of Plato's Realm of Forms.
◾
The chef doesn't shy away from meat dishes either. The main dish of deer is cooked exquisitely and served with a gentle balsamic sauce & abundance of herbs that undercut the gaminess perfectly.
◾
Besides being delicious, all the dishes in the course simply feel good for the body and the soul. Even the risotto is executed in such a way, with the genius addition of asparagus and lily bulbs, that it does not feel heavy at all.
◾
In this restaurant, the chef cooks with utmost respect for his ingredients, and for his customers. That, is the distinct character of Ristorante Da Fiore. Less

▪️弐ノ蔵 Ninokura (Sapporo)
▪️Sushi - Omakase Dinner Course: ¥18K

Japan's northernmost island Hokkaido is known for its abundance of prime-quality fresh seafood. Visiting the island's largest city Sapporo for the first time, I was eager to splurge on a sushi omakase to taste Hokkaido's coveted offerings. Thus, I headed to the six-seat counter of Ninokura, brimming with excitement. Expectations were high, and Ninokura surpassed them in a spectacular manner.
◾
The 2-hour course opened with 6 plates of otsumami, followed by 12 nigiri. The chef's unique sense of creativity without restraint permeated through the course. He used cheese, a quintessential Hokkaido ingredient yet an unorthodox one in sushi, 4 times in the course. Tossing a raw shirako (cod milt) in crumbs of panko and parmigiano, he created an umami layer to encase the impossible creaminess of the in-season ingredient which itself felt like I was eating the world's best burratta. The shirako then made a comeback as nigiri, this time slightly grilled and put on top of Hokkaido-made ricotta. A daring combination of milky textures to remarkable result.
◾
In another plate of creative otsumami, Meichidai and spinach were served in a unique butter dashi. The butter was used so expertly as to not disturb the soft mouthfeel of the dashi, while amplifying the flavor to perfectly complement the white meat fish. Such otsumami worked to showcase the chef's exceptional control over subtle flavors, which translated well into his nigiri.
◾
Innovative touches continued through the nigiri. The chef used a soldering iron to gently grill some of the pieces such as nodoguro and squid. Oyster from kushiro was injected with ponzu by a syringe to create one of the most thrilling pieces of the night. The shari relied on komezu and was superbly balanced in sourness and texture, neither too loose nor too firm.
◾
An austere ambience could have taken away from the experience but the chef was quite friendly and created an engaging experience. As it was only six people, it felt like a dinner party after we all had a few cups of sake. Overall, this was an unforgettable sushi experience for half the price you would pay in Tokyo. Less

▪️Fileja (Kanda-Tokyo)
▪️Italian - Pasta course: ~¥12K

A six-seat chef's restaurant in a beautifully designed space hidden in Kanda. Fileja offers a unique and highly entertaining dinner experience through a memorable 3-hour course that consists of 20+ dishes.
▪️
This almost feels like a sushi omakase - with fresh pasta dishes instead of nigiri pieces. Several non-pasta dishes are sprinkled in between in lieu of 'otsumami' , and they add a nice variation to the course. The cabbage roll and the wagyu cheek stew are among the noteworthy non-pasta dishes.
▪️
But the star here is the pasta. Good fresh pasta is already difficult to find but Fileja serves around 10 different pasta dishes all fresh made in front of you from scratch, including bucatini, tortelli, flat pappardelle, ravioli... The pasta are then elevated through expertly made sauces. The chef generally keeps it simple and sticks to doing the classics well - already making a strong statement of intent with the opening tortelli that is cooked in a very straightforward butter sauce.
▪️
As you have 20+ dishes, portions are minuscule. It feels like the chef is constantly teasing you, making you crave for more after you savor every drop of delicious sauce in your plate, as he keeps hitting you with one fascinating dish after the other. There is also a selection of carefully selected natural wines accompanying the course in the way you desire.
▪️
This was one of the most enjoyable dining experiences for me this year - lots of entertainment value watching the chef make different kinds of pasta in front of you, also helped by his personable style that keeps the mood light and airy.
▪️
The course is of great value and still easy to book, another proof that you don't need to chase ridiculously hard reservations and pay ridiculously high bills to have a delicious fine dining experience in Tokyo. Wholeheartedly recommended.
#gustojournals_tokyo Less

▪️Fileja (Kanda-Tokyo)
▪️Italian - Pasta course: ~¥12K

A six-seat chef's restaurant in a beautifully designed space hidden in Kanda. Fileja offers a unique and highly entertaining dinner experience through a memorable 3-hour course that consists of 20+ dishes.
▪️
This almost feels like a sushi omakase - with fresh pasta dishes instead of nigiri pieces. Several non-pasta dishes are sprinkled in between in lieu of 'otsumami' , and they add a nice variation to the course. The cabbage roll and the wagyu cheek stew are among the noteworthy non-pasta dishes.
▪️
But the star here is the pasta. Good fresh pasta is already difficult to find but Fileja serves around 10 different pasta dishes all fresh made in front of you from scratch, including bucatini, tortelli, flat pappardelle, ravioli... The pasta are then elevated through expertly made sauces. The chef generally keeps it simple and sticks to doing the classics well - already making a strong statement of intent with the opening tortelli that is cooked in a very straightforward butter sauce.
▪️
As you have 20+ dishes, portions are minuscule. It feels like the chef is constantly teasing you, making you crave for more after you savor every drop of delicious sauce in your plate, as he keeps hitting you with one fascinating dish after the other. There is also a selection of carefully selected natural wines accompanying the course in the way you desire.
▪️
This was one of the most enjoyable dining experiences for me this year - lots of entertainment value watching the chef make different kinds of pasta in front of you, also helped by his personable style that keeps the mood light and airy.
▪️
The course is of great value and still easy to book, another proof that you don't need to chase ridiculously hard reservations and pay ridiculously high bills to have a delicious fine dining experience in Tokyo. Wholeheartedly recommended.
#gustojournals_tokyo Less

▪️Fileja (Kanda-Tokyo)
▪️Italian - Pasta course: ~¥12K

A six-seat chef's restaurant in a beautifully designed space hidden in Kanda. Fileja offers a unique and highly entertaining dinner experience through a memorable 3-hour course that consists of 20+ dishes.
▪️
This almost feels like a sushi omakase - with fresh pasta dishes instead of nigiri pieces. Several non-pasta dishes are sprinkled in between in lieu of 'otsumami' , and they add a nice variation to the course. The cabbage roll and the wagyu cheek stew are among the noteworthy non-pasta dishes.
▪️
But the star here is the pasta. Good fresh pasta is already difficult to find but Fileja serves around 10 different pasta dishes all fresh made in front of you from scratch, including bucatini, tortelli, flat pappardelle, ravioli... The pasta are then elevated through expertly made sauces. The chef generally keeps it simple and sticks to doing the classics well - already making a strong statement of intent with the opening tortelli that is cooked in a very straightforward butter sauce.
▪️
As you have 20+ dishes, portions are minuscule. It feels like the chef is constantly teasing you, making you crave for more after you savor every drop of delicious sauce in your plate, as he keeps hitting you with one fascinating dish after the other. There is also a selection of carefully selected natural wines accompanying the course in the way you desire.
▪️
This was one of the most enjoyable dining experiences for me this year - lots of entertainment value watching the chef make different kinds of pasta in front of you, also helped by his personable style that keeps the mood light and airy.
▪️
The course is of great value and still easy to book, another proof that you don't need to chase ridiculously hard reservations and pay ridiculously high bills to have a delicious fine dining experience in Tokyo. Wholeheartedly recommended.
#gustojournals_tokyo Less

▪️Chisou Sottakuito - Hiroshima City
▪️Kaiseki (Dinner course with sake pairing: ¥33000)

Through the interplay of peerless craftsmanship and unwavering focus on ingredient quality, local and microseasonal delicacies of Hiroshima are rendered into unforgettable dishes at Chisou Sottakuito.
◾
The first dish says it all. The clear dashi made with soft Hiroshima water blends in with the beautiful lacquerware, and green watershields called Junsai adorn the white okoze fish as if they were gracefully suspended mid-air. While I silently adore the aesthetics of this dish, the chef proceeds to tell me about how it is now the peak season of junsai in Hiroshima. They are served at their best to showcase their unique viscous texture which is revered by the Japanese.
◾
This is the height of Washoku: a dish made to appreciate the subtle difference of texture a few days may bring to a prized local ingredient.
◾
The course continues in the path set by the first dish. A massive scallop-like tairagai is hand-plucked in front of us in an effort to retain its umami, the sashimi is served with a 34-year-old ponzu made from scratch by the chef, a piece of mackerel is explained to have a remarkably soft taste because it fed on nothing else but sakura-ebi shrimps... Minute details in each dish display the chef's fantastical level of skill and obsession for his craft.
◾
But nothing illustrates the quality of cooking here better than the dashi - the feather in Sottakuito's cap. Several different dashi are featured in the course. Perhaps most impressive one is behind the takamori wagyu dish - a broth prepared by aged rishiri konbu and 4 kinds of dried fish. The depth of flavor with the added umami from the wagyu is astounding.
◾
The sake pairing from @riepyonosake features very rare bottles, some nama and aged ones. The aged sake she brought for the final dish of rice with summer truffles was made for one of the best pairings I've experienced, as the sake's almost cacao-like nutty flavors blended beautifully with the fragrant truffles.
◾
If it is not clear by now, I would wholeheartedly recommend Chisou Sottakuito for a kaiseki experience worth traveling for. Less

▪️Chisou Sottakuito - Hiroshima City
▪️Kaiseki (Dinner course with sake pairing: ¥33000)

Through the interplay of peerless craftsmanship and unwavering focus on ingredient quality, local and microseasonal delicacies of Hiroshima are rendered into unforgettable dishes at Chisou Sottakuito.
◾
The first dish says it all. The clear dashi made with soft Hiroshima water blends in with the beautiful lacquerware, and green watershields called Junsai adorn the white okoze fish as if they were gracefully suspended mid-air. While I silently adore the aesthetics of this dish, the chef proceeds to tell me about how it is now the peak season of junsai in Hiroshima. They are served at their best to showcase their unique viscous texture which is revered by the Japanese.
◾
This is the height of Washoku: a dish made to appreciate the subtle difference of texture a few days may bring to a prized local ingredient.
◾
The course continues in the path set by the first dish. A massive scallop-like tairagai is hand-plucked in front of us in an effort to retain its umami, the sashimi is served with a 34-year-old ponzu made from scratch by the chef, a piece of mackerel is explained to have a remarkably soft taste because it fed on nothing else but sakura-ebi shrimps... Minute details in each dish display the chef's fantastical level of skill and obsession for his craft.
◾
But nothing illustrates the quality of cooking here better than the dashi - the feather in Sottakuito's cap. Several different dashi are featured in the course. Perhaps most impressive one is behind the takamori wagyu dish - a broth prepared by aged rishiri konbu and 4 kinds of dried fish. The depth of flavor with the added umami from the wagyu is astounding.
◾
The sake pairing from @riepyonosake features very rare bottles, some nama and aged ones. The aged sake she brought for the final dish of rice with summer truffles was made for one of the best pairings I've experienced, as the sake's almost cacao-like nutty flavors blended beautifully with the fragrant truffles.
◾
If it is not clear by now, I would wholeheartedly recommend Chisou Sottakuito for a kaiseki experience worth traveling for. Less