チャーシューワンタン麺 / Chashu Wontonmen / Chūka Soba Ichiriki — Tsuruga, Fukui

Tsuruga style ramen contains a tonkotsu-shoyu broth of domestic pork bones and chicken carcasses. The soup is cloudy with medium depth, found to be both rich and light. Medium-thin, semi wavy high-hydration noodles are made from Hokkaido wheat. Topped with thinly sliced pork chashu, bean sprouts, wontons and a sprinkle of black pepper. Boiled gyoza on the side.

Chūka Soba Ichiriki was established in 1958, when master Koji Sugai left his job at a flour mill and invested 20,000 yen in a secondhand street cart to pursue ramen. For roughly five years after that, Sugai-san roamed around coastal areas and train stations building his reputation. By the 1960’s, the street in front of Tsuruga station was lined up with ramen carts (yatai). Many of these shops have long since closed, but Ichiriki remains as the prototypical Tsuruga ramen. Current second generation master Sugai-san trained in French cuisine before taking over operations from his father. He has maintained the brick-and-mortar store while refining both the broth and ingredient choices. 26 seats. Open since 1977. Less