Seirin
2022.10 dinner
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鰻の蒲焼き丼
Unagi kabayaki donburi
自家製ミルクアイス・20年コニャック
Homemade milk ice cream, 20-year old cognac
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Located in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka,「Seirin (勢麟)」 is a culinary destination shaped by the land, the seasons, and the deeply personal philosophy of Chef Atsunari Hasebe (長谷部敦成). Rather than aligning his restaurant with rigid categories such as kaiseki or kappo, chef Hasebe refers to Seirin simply as a ”食べ物屋“ — a place that serves food. This humble designation reflects his fluid, ingredient-first approach that evolves constantly in response to nature’s rhythm.

Hasebe’s culinary style emerged from a return to the fundamentals of umami and a deep engagement with the natural abundance of Suruga Bay and the surrounding mountains. He forages wild mountain vegetables himself and crafts his menu to reflect the most vibrant ingredients of each season. In spring (April–May), when local prawns and conger eel are at their peak,「Seirin」takes on the character of a “tempura shop.” In early summer (June–July), it becomes a “pike conger shop,” and from August through October, it shifts into an “eel shop.” When blowfish begins to appear in November,「Seirin」transitions once more—this time into a “fugu shop.” This fluid, seasonal identity allows Hasebe to honor each ingredient at its peak with focus and precision.

This visit took place at the end of October, just in time to catch the tail end of eel season, along with some exceptional local matsutake mushrooms. With only eight counter seats, 「Seirin」offers more than a meal — it is a seasonal narrative composed by a chef who lives in step with the world around him.
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