A map suggests a journey, unveils possible paths, trajectories to be explored, the desire to get to know other places, other people, other cultures.
Portuguese gastronomy has influenced and been influenced by many ‘maps’ over the centuries. Distant maps, of other people, other habits, other products, other techniques. And it has certainly become richer in this exchange.
David Jesus who took over as head of Mapa restaurant at L’AND Vineyards in Alentejo about a year and a half ago, after being Executive Chef at Belcanto and right-hand man to Chef José Avillez for twelve years, celebrates these intersections with far away lands.
With skill and rigour, the main ingredients (all of which, I believe, come from Portugal) are worked with condiments and preparations that we can somehow recognise in the vast library of flavours built on crossings with other cultures.
From Japan to Mozambique, from India to Brazil, sitting here in the Alentejo countryside, surrounded by dozens of Tom Dixon lights hanging from the ceiling, I traversed this ‘map’.
Another menu, another ‘map’ is on the way, it’s worth keeping an eye out, but here are some highlights from the one I’ve just explored
1. Azorean Tuna, miso, tempura and pickled seaweed
2. Asparagus and lupin ceviche
3. Algarve Scarlett Red Shrimp, Xeq Xeq (from Goa), green apple, salicornia
4. Accorn pig trotters w/ Algarve coast shrimp and coriander
5. Setúbal Red Mullet, Xerém cockles, Brazilian moqueca flavours
6. Mango, rice, coconut
7. Goa Bebinca, coffee, rum Less