Located in Keong Saik, a hip area south of Chinatown, Chef Mano Thevar's eponymous restaurant sees the native of Penang reinterpreting his Indian heritage through elevated ideas but firm roots. A narrow space with perhaps 20 seats, all of them alongside a kitchen playing Layla and Dream On, this is anything but stews and naan but rather ways of incorporating those things into a European-style tasting menu. Trained by Guy Savoy, a similar joie de vivre found in Thevar's approach, spices are bold but balanced in a manner rarely seen in Indian cuisine.

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