Both of my meals at Kurosaki last year had a mid-meal standout item. Too big in flavor and size to be a tsumami course, but also not quite sushi either. In November, it was grilled sanma wrapped around matchsticks of grilled matsutake. Large sanma are typically used for grilling with salt, but this one had a shoyu-based glaze. It wrapped the mushrooms almost entirely, resulting in layers of earth textures that tasted like the season.
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In April, a huge slice of grilled miso-marinated Nodoguro was served simply with toasted nori and a large swipe of high quality wasabi. Another study in layers of texture and flavor, ranging from sweet to smoky to salty to herbal - and back again. Tough for me to understate the brilliance here. Less