A cobblestone road led us to Copenhagen’s Knippelsbro bridge. Plastic tarps were fastened to shield us from the cold air. It was November in Copenhagen, after all.

We were greeted Noma-style, with one big happy cheer at the entrance. Inside, 60 diners were seated elbow to elbow at one long wooden table for a pop-up dinner titled, Noma Under the... More

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