Coleman Griffin, a young American Chef with stints at The Restaurant at Meadowood and benu in California, had his first job in Japan at Inua, the spin-off of Noma in Tokyo. After Inua closed he had a few short term projects before starting to work on the Sower/Hotel du Lac project. There he created with his partners in a former retreat for NTT employees a wonderful oasis on the shores of Biwako, the largest lake in Japan. There are rooms in the main building but also some individual cottages a short walk from it.
The restaurant is mainly a counter seating set up with 2-3 tables for up to four people. The open kitchen has a big open fire pit. The ingredients are sourced mostly local, the restaurant provides you with a detailed map showing all suppliers and partners.
The food follows roughly the Kaiseki sequence of dishes, but always adds a modern twist to it. The flavors are delicious and the execution expertly. The kitchen team seems to work silently in a well rehearsed choregraphie with Chef Coleman often putting the finishing touches to the plating.
Given that this place is open for 6 months and it is the first head chef position for Coleman, the result is extraordinary. I am sure this place is going to be a destination restaurant which will require long term planning for a reservation.
Well done! Kudos to Coleman and his team.
Less