Petit fours
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Lunch last month at ⭐️ @materia_ristorante near Lake Como where young chef Davide Caranchini draws on influences both from the local Lake Como area and his experiences working at restaurants such as Le Gavroche and Noma. Overall a really enjoyable meal with several standout dishes including a sea urchin custard with veal brain foam and caper powder, lamb with cucumber, sesame and caviar and an outstanding pasta dish of linguini with butter, agone fish sauce and amchoor. It’s certainly a menu that shows the youth of the chef and sometimes slightly misfires. A signature dish of pickled red cabbage salad, bitter almond milk, smoked bone marrow and caviar felt like he was trying too hard to tick all 5 taste senses at the expense of an actual tasty plate of food and a ‘pre-dessert’ of oyster, passion fruit and cumin has no business being called a pre-dessert. Although I guess you can call whatever you like a pre-dessert if it’s before the dessert🤷🏼‍♂️
But that oyster dish would not have looked out of place as one of the amuse snacks. It’s certainly food that got me thinking, which is generally never a bad thing. My only other gripe was that with only one dessert at the end of a 12 course tasting menu it felt like a bit of an afterthought. Though extremely tasty, the saffron and marrow dessert could have done with being the last line in the story rather than the full stop.
Very much worth checking out if you are in the area.
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Michelin Guide - ⭐️
OAD - 95
W50Best - ‘discovery’
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